wolfe10

Assume this is solid front axle-- given the chassis you have. While camber can be out, it is VERY unlikely, as it would mean that the axle is bent and has to be "straightened".

And, with all the 1200's being replaced, a large RV dealer may have a few "used" units that you can scavenge. Worth a call.

Tell us a little more about the tire wear: Both fronts wearing only on the insides? Any feathering of the surface of the rest of the tires? What brand and age tire? Miles on the tires? How many miles on the coach, and how much of this was on rough roads? Has chassis been kept lubed? You can easily check for steering component wear yourself, with a helper. Helper in driver's seat, engine OFF. Turn steering wheel back and forth through increasing arcs while you look for any play/slop from steering box to right wheel. You can also check toe-in with just basic things-- Board with nail in it to scribe a mark on the tread as you rotate the wheel with tire off the ground. Then tape measure, long stick, etc to measure from mark on left tire to mark on right tire in front of and then back side of the tire.

Yes, in most cases you have to slide the refrigerator either toward or into the inside of the motorhome to gain access. I have done several by just sliding it in about a foot and reaching down from the roof vent to access the top. That way there is no heavy lifting involved.

Sorry, never heard of them. And they are not associated with FMCA or any of its chapters in any way. Looks like a marketing group.

Jack, Best you can do is check the weather immediately before deciding on the route. This site allows you to check temperatures, weather wind conditions, etc by three hour segments: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/centrockies.php

Ray, In Redmond, I stopped by their booth and discussed their fan with them-- they had a fan there. I found it easy to understand that the OE fan was not particularly well designed from an efficiency standpoint and that the new one optimized air flow while lowering HP requirement.

Tip, Source Engineering (headed by an ex-Monaco chassis engineer) has them: http://www.rv-chassis.com/products.html

Mark, Another alternative is to have a coach inspection by a professional. If the basic systems (particularly chassis/driveline) are OK, it may be less expensive to forgo an extended service policy. But, I have to tell you, my view is that insurance/service policies are for things I can not afford. So, failure of an appliance, for example, would not warrant my the purchase of an expensive policy.

Deen, Good question. That would be a question for the Monaco tech hotline. And, suspect they may have to have an engineer get back to you with the answer. Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91186 N. Coburg Industrial Way Coburg, OR 97408. Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT. 877-466-6226

John, Not sure how an exhaust brake could cause a squeal. Yes, if you have an exhaust leak upstream of the brake, it would cause a noise, but probably more of a "hissing" sound as the back pressure escapes. And an exhaust leak would show itself on a diesel by the deposit of black soot around the leak. The turbo should not be working-- with exhaust back pressure from exhaust brake, it would be spinning very little. Wonder if it was RPM related-- engaging the exhaust brake normally raises engine RPM. So, a belt, bearing in A/C compressor, alternator or water pump may make more noise at higher RPM and, with less noise from the engine itself (throttle closed) may be more apparent. You might try playing around with the "down arrow" on the Allison and see if it is RPM related.

Alang, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you removed the screen from the faucets to verify that there is no debris in them? You may also have a screen/strainer on the inlet to the pump. Here is the manual for the pump: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCwQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmanuals.heartlandowners.org%2FPlumbing%2FPump%2FArtis%2FWater%2520Pump%2520Artis%2520pds1rv25.pdf&ei=JM77U52ZIYy6ogSrxYHwCg&usg=AFQjCNGhofCt8oVZiAleyCiRQPMrc-v_qw&bvm=bv.74035653,d.cGU Lastly, make sure your water fill valve is closed, or your pump may be recirculating some if the water back to the tank.

Russ, Indeed, if you don't know the history, change all fluids and start your new Maintenance Log. And Transynd is what you should use. For your Allison 3000 series, buy the 5 gallon pail-- that is the least expensive. You should have about a quart left over. You will also need the Allison filter kit.

Use expandable curtain rods as fiddles: https://www.google.com/search?q=expantable+curtin+rod&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb#channel=sb&q=expandable+curtain+rod&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&spell=1

Carl, I go with the lowest percent Biodiesel I can find. Two reasons, first it has less BTU's per gallon so slight reduction in MPG. Second is the question mark on effect on the fuel system. I have no additional FACTS to add to that part of the discussion. We did pull into a station in Oregon with B20 and pulled right back out. Both Caterpillar and Cummins have published max bio content for each of their engines. Just got through doing a presentation for the Diesel RV Club and at the FMCA Redmond Convention. This is the latest from Cummins: • Allowable Blend • Up to 5% (B5) for all engines • Up to 20% (B20) for engines EPA ‘02 and later • Additional information available: http://cumminsengine...diesel_faq.page Caterpillar: Biodiesel – Use ASTM D6751 or DIN 51606 specification • Limited storage life • Less BTU content (5 – 7%) than regular diesel • Allowable Blend – Up to 30% for engines built prior to 1/1/2007 – Engines built on or after 1/1/2007: » Up to 5% for C7 and C9 » Up to 20% for C13 and C15

bitschee, I do not recall the issue, but with 3 12 VDC batteries to make one bank of 12 VDC, connect all the positives together and all the negatives together. Connect the positive of battery #1 to house positive and negative of battery #3 to house ground/neutral. Yes, there are very slight improvements for more "balanced" cable connections, but this one is simple and will give you 95% of the more complex arrangements.

A very good weather website for that area: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/centrockies.php Click on "wind speed and direction". You can look at it by 3 hour increments.

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Just did that route Ogden UT to Denver this week returning from the Redmond FMCA Convention. I 80/ I25 is the quick way with fewer grades. U.S. 40 looks to be a lot more scenic. Hopefully there will be some who have driven that route.

Yes, sine wave is preferred (required by some electronics). And I like to see an inverter rated for 2X the load. That way you are running it with good efficiency rather than at its limit.

Here are earlier discussions of using a Montana LLC to register an RV: http://community.fmca.com/topic/408-registering-an-rv-using-a-montana-llc/ http://community.fmca.com/topic/1567-montana-llc-for-kentucky-resident/?hl=%2Bmontana+%2Bllc

Bill, A call to Tiffin will tell you the brand and model of your locks and will likely give you sage advice on a fix.

First decision is what kind/battery technology you want: AGM's are probably the best and are maintenance free. If you do a lot of dry camping where you are running your generator to charge the batteries, they will also take a charge faster because of lower internal resistance. But, they are more expensive. But quality wet cells like your Trojans, IF PROPERLY MAINTAINED, can give goo, long service life as well.

And, if the coach breaker, is it the 30 amp main breaker (which is what I assume) or individual breaker for a particular circuit?

Couple of "ifs" in this: If voltage is correct 120 +/- 10%. If the A/C is functioning properly. If (probably the biggie) nothing else is on 120 VAC (such as water heater element, charger charging deeply discharged batteries, and to a lesser degree, refrigerator, etc) THEN it should work with one A/C and one other item like hair dryer or microwave unless a really big one. But, worse case is turn the A/C back to FAN for the duration of the additional heavy load.

Tildee, That will depend on how his 100 amp is wired. For 30 amp service, you will need ONE hot, ONE neutral and ONE ground. The critical part for RV's compared with some welding equipment, etc is ONE hot. So, as long as he has a neutral to the work shop, wiring it should not be much of an issue.