wolfe10

Ted, Other than access, replacing a valve cover gasket is not difficult. You might try slightly tightening the valve cover bolts to see if that would stop the leak. But, at that age, the gaskets don't owe you anything.

I would be quite surprised if you do not have some access to the top of the engine from the bedroom or closet. That is where you would be able to see the fan shroud and front of the CAC. And, with a 2002 chassis with Caterpillar engine, it is quite likely you have a grease zirk for the fan hub-- it would be accessed from the bedroom or closet as well. To verify that you do have one, call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. If difficult to access, it may have never been greased! You also have a separate V belt that drives only the engine water pump. It is NOT on an automatic tensioner. Make sure it is not loose. Check tension from the driver's side of the engine from below (water pump on driver's side of engine).

Have you checked the front of your CAC (Charge Air Cooler) for blockage. It is an often neglected item and that is where dirt and debris collects. Verify that the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter is as clean as the center-- the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter. This should be an annual "cleaning", but is often neglected. I have seen CAC's (remember, the radiator is BEHIND the CAC) that are 40% plugged. Hard to keep them from overheating.

Monaco Service still has records of a number of older Safari coaches. You might give them a call (this information is a couple of months old, but suggest you try it): Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91186 N. Coburg Industrial Way Coburg, OR 97408. Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT. 877-466-6226

Bill is correct. 30 amp is ONE hot leg 30 amps. 50 amp is TWO hot legs of 50 amps EACH= 100 amps.

Yes, the vast majority of rear radiator coaches have direct/bolted fans (yes, there are a few-- have seen one on a Freightliner chassis with MB engine). Side radiators are a very different matter, as they are rarely mechanically driven (yes there are some). Most are hydraulic driven so can be relatively easily thermostatically controlled.

30 amp RV outlet: One hot One neutral One ground 50 amp RV outlet: Two hots (240 as measured between the two hots) One neutral One ground

Quite a few rattles are fixed with nothing more than the little felt dots from any hardware store on the cabinet doors. Again, you really need to identify the source of the rattles-- some can be quite easy to fix, others very difficult or impossible.

Mark, Winnebago should be able to tell you exactly where it is. Give them a call with your VIN.

I believe he means the coach is 10 years old, tires 4 years old (from his first post). Agree, it is not clear.

Correct. As stated what is adjustable is RIDE HEIGHT. The RIDE HEIGHT VALVES then controls air flow and therefore pressure to the air bags. Monaco can tell you the correct ride height front and rear for your coach. Be sure to use safety stands if you go under the coach. Set too low and the coach can bottom out. Set too high and the shocks act as limiters on suspension travel. Shocks control the up and down motion, not really ride stiffness, particularly with Konis.

Ray, I believe you and I are saying the same thing, just saying it differently. I said, "....Pennzoil. Obliviously, they make quite a few different oils meeting many different specs." You said, "...I believe you will find that all the major brands make an oil that is suitable for Diesel engines," Let's agree to agree! BTW, the same applies to coolants. Many companies such as Prestone make at least three different coolants, two of which are approved for HD diesels. They also make one that IS NOT (the regular high silicate coolant for automobiles that you will find in most Walmarts, etc).

You may have a leak in the hose from tank to generator. It is on the suction side, so it would likely leak air IN, not fuel out. The pump would run fast, as air is easy to move. It may be able to get enough fuel to keep it running, it may not. Diagnosis is easy-- Use a gas can and hose connected directly to the fuel filter. If it runs fine with this alternate source, your motorhome fuel system is suspect. Again, there can be many causes of your issues, this is just one of them. Yours is newer than any I have worked on. You might inquire if it has a self-diagnosis mode. If so, check for codes.

IFS or solid front axle? What chassis?

rbarkieyii, My main concern would be the transmission. Check with Allison on max GCVW. After that, you get into TWO issues: 1. The legal issue of what happens if you are in an accident. That is the one you suggested not to mention. 2. Physical issues involved with heavier toads. A good welder/home engineer may be your best bet.

OK, guys. Lets get back to "playing nice". Thanks.

Give Freightliner a call with your VIN.

Jazzi10, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume you are looking at the manual transmission models.

Sent you a Private Message.

You may be back to basic electrical diagnostics-- easiest with a wiring schematic. But, with or without a wiring schematic start at the battery and see where 12+ VDC goes to zero. The good news is that LOTS of circuits are involved, so it is likely that the issue is near the batteries.

Yes, fuel hose breakdown is not that unusual. And, since it is on the suction side of the lift pump, you will see little fuel leakage out-- just air IN. The primary fuel filter filled 3/4 with air is a really good indicator of a suction side leak. But, this sentence would make me want to verify the cause of the problem before undertaking line replacement: "I unhooked the supply line from the tank and put it into a 5 gallon diesel fuel container, still stalls."

At least last week, all in-park CG's were 100% full. So, be sure to call ahead before driving your RV all the way up there.

Benzz99, You might contact HWH. They did have an issue with weak retract springs. Solution was spring replacement.

Ann and Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We did this just last week. No problems on your route, basically drop down to I 40 and head west. We stayed in Williams at the http://www.thetrain.com/lodging/rv-park/?gclid=CIzJgeHlob8CFYhefgod4pMAvg Depending on time of year, you will likely need reservations. Williams or Flagstaff both make good locations for exploring the park with your tow vehicle.

John, Tell us what make, model and year you have-- might get more specific advice.