wolfe10

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What area of Houston does your daughter live in-- it is a big city and our recommendations could be 50 miles from her house. Also, do you need/want covered parking? Electricity?

RVSEF's schedule: http://rvsafety.com/weighing-schedule/ Much better, as they weigh each wheel position.

leo52, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is an in-depth discussion on the XRV vs XZE: http://community.fmca.com/topic/3926-xze-vs-xrv-tires/

lloydfry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis you you have? Have you identified whether the play is in the steering box or linkage? If not, easily done. Have a helper (engine off) turn the wheel side to side/back and forth while you look for any linkage between steering box and right tire that have play. If none there, it is in the steering box. Some HD steering boxes are adjustable, many are not. What brand and model steering box do you have?

James, Before spending $$$, do a simple check: With engine running, check voltage at the lights. Compare with voltage at the battery. With engine running, voltage at the battery should be around 14 VDC. If voltage at the lights is more than about .7 VDC lower, all you may need it to get the voltage up where it should be. For under $15, you can use a RELAY and INLINE FUSE and just use your head light switch to make/break the relay. Let us now what you find.

Many RV dealers and some banks keep old NADA books. Call around-- someone will have older issues.

Kay, While that statement DOES apply to licensing, it does NOT apply to weight restrictions, brake requirements, speed limits, length restrictions, etc. Each state sets these requirements that apply to all vehicles in that state irrespective of state of license.

Tim, I would start with the simple stuff first. Remove the aerator on each sink and make sure they are not clogged.

OK, just an observation: Both Caterpillar and Cummins recommend AGAINST any of the oiled filters. Yes, they let in more air, but also more dirt. And, certainly in Caterpillar's case, they have no "skin in the game"-- they do not sell air filters for any of our applications. BTW, what are your air filter minder readings that are leading you toward other filter choices? I do agree that restriction in the intake system of a diesel should be addressed, but that is what the air filter minder does-- alerts you to a problem.

An easy solution where a high amp light is substituted for a low amp one is to wire the new ones through a RELAY, with the old power wire merely closing the relay. A $12 solution for relay and inline fuse (on new larger positive wire).

WHERE it was parked for three years also makes a difference. If in a humid climate, it is very different than if this was in the desert SW. That is why they store airplanes around the Tucson area, not Florida.

Perhaps the OP can clarify exactly what coach/chassis/engine they have. That will certainly allow for better feedback.

Generally in the front compartment with the fuses. Because the many things that only work with the key on would well overload what could reasonably be run through the ignition switch, the ignition switch is just used to close the IGNITION SOLENOID with all items normally powered with the ignition on supplied from it. Another indicator of a failure here would be that the Allison shift pad would be dark (it is powered by the ignition solenoid.

FLNavyVet, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Did everything that normally works with the ignition on quit at the same time-- things like the dash HVAC fan? If so, suspect the ignition solenoid or ignition switch or wiring between them. The solenoids are a fairly high failure rate item.

Wonder if you have a Navistar Maxxforce diesel in a small Class A. And, a good place to start is to read the owners manual that came with your chassis and engine. If you don't have records, assume that nothing has been done-- that is certainly the safest route. If you can contact the previous owner, you may be able to get maintenance records.

Carol, Can't imagine anyone telling you it is cheaper to drive two vehicles when you already own a tow dolly. You will loose a little MPG in the motorhome towing, but nothing like that of driving two separate vehicles. If your coach is a diesel, the effect would be even less than if it gasoline. The exception might be in mountains where driving separate would lessen the HP load on the coach climbing and the braking load descending.

Carol, Assuming your Camry is and automatic, a tow dolly would be needed. Also a light package for the car. As to whether this is the way to go depends on several factors: How far from home do you intend to drive? How many miles a year? Are you considering another vehicle that may be towable 4 wheels down?

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Surprised you are not wanting to tie the new camera in to your Audit system monitor. Though you may need an adapter at the camera end, you can likely use the existing wiring. Depending on which Audit system you have, the camera may need to have reverse image capability so that you can properly view both back up camera and tank levels. If that doesn't work, go to the front left of the coach over the driver's seat and open the cabinet. You will see a "D" shaped beam open at the end at the corner of the roof and side-wall (at least on non-slide models). You should be able to fish a wire all the way to the rear of the coach through that beam.

Correct-- should be no issues as they are very comparable sizes. To my knowledge Michelin is the only one who makes the 235/80R22.5. Everyone else sells 245/75R22.5.

While you are outside the coach, have someone deploy the jacks. You will hear the jack motor.

Certainly, it is a plus if the coach maker is still in business-- if just for technical support. As an example, I contacted Monaco (who bought Safari) technical support last week to find out how to disable the "inverter on when back up camera on" feature (I added a dash monitor for the backup camera instead of using the large overhead TV). Got an answer back and took care of it on Friday. But, like many other things when choosing a coach, I view this as a plus, not a "have to have".

Scott, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Irrespective of heat source (120 VAC or propane) the PC board works on 12 VDC. So, start by confirming that you have 12 VDC at the refrigerator (outside access door).

It will be very difficult to find a DP under 35'. The overhangs dictated by steering components in front and length of drive shaft, transmission, engine, CAC and radiator (assuming rear radiator) mean every inch shorter comes out of wheelbase. Poor WB/ OL (wheelbase/overall length) coaches do not drive as well as the exact same "mechanicals" on a coach with better ratio. BTW, we have had both a 36' and currently have a 35' DP and are happy with their size-- a good compromise for us between maneuverability and room. Below 35', I would be looking at a gas coach. There were significant improvements in gas chassis with the Workhorse W (no longer in production) and the Ford F53 beginning in 2005. No question, you can find nice coaches in your price range. You have to decide whether newer, lower end gas, slightly older higher end gas or older DP in that same price range better fit your needs. A good place to start comparing is the largest RV consignment lot in the U.S. Good photos of the coaches, floorplans, etc: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used_rvs_for_sale.htm The next step is to get out there and look at a variety of coaches to see what best fits your needs/desires and start narrowing down the search.

Tony, Welcome to the FMCA Forum (and the Diesel RV Club Chapter as well). Were it mine, I would disable the fuel supply (your DD tech can tell you how) and crank the engine for 5-6 10 second cycles with plenty of cool down time for the starter between. That will help get oil up in the engine before starting. And with a DD two stroke make sure you are using the correct single viscosity diesel oil. Delo 100 40 weight has been a popular choice for many decades. Then, I would take it for a drive-- long enough to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature (25 highway miles comes to mind) and than change the oil. Make sure to check tires, etc before moving if it has sat for that long.

Glenn, In a word, NO. The heavier wheel position on each axle determines the correct minimum pressure FOR ALL TIRES ON THAT AXLE. From the Michelin RV Tire Guide, page 6: "For control of the RV, it is critical that the tire pressures be the same across an axle."