wolfe10

Carl, Your refrigerator owners manual may have instructions. If not, you can find a copy here: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/NorcoldIncRefrigerators/1200Series/tabid/467/Default.aspx

Have to decide between "cute" and "effective". My take is that I want someone not paying particularly good attention to NOT try to merge between coach and toad. Big print and short and to the point! I agree, once into a CG, the "cute one" is..... well..... cuter.

Carl, Next "events" where I will be doing Maintenance Seminars are: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/planned?eventId=789714&EventViewMode=EventDetails http://www.fmca.com/conventions/redmond-2014

Yes, 4 bolts hold the roof A/C in place and the gasket would need to be replaced if the upper unit is removed. But, to remove the upper unit just to clean the evaporator and condenser would be a lot of extra work-- with care (to keep water out if the coach when washing the evaporator) this servicing can be done with the unit in place. Have done it that way for years. And, particularly in a humid environment, the evaporator as well as condenser need to be cleaned annually to keep mold at bay. Get that "wet dog" smell when you turn on the A/C-- it is time for an evaporator cleaning.

Boberoo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Monaco should be able to supply you with a schematic, but most are very simple. From the 12 VDC vacuum pump, the line generally goes to a vacuum reservoir and from that to the dash HVAC control.

Carl, Start with the free stuff-- Do a "burner area tune-up". Thing that can cause this that will be addressed by the tune-up: Rust flakes, dirt or insect nest in the burner causing low flame. Spec of dirt in the propane jet. Improper placement of the igniter/thermocouple or dirt on it, insect nest, etc. While you are out there (all this outside access door), clean and tighten the 12 VDC connection at the back of the refrigerator. No parts and no special tools are needed.

Not aware of a new one fitting that criteria. But, used YES. In fact our last coach, a 1993 Foretravel fit that bill exactly: 96" width and 10' 6" tall, 36' long. Diesel pusher with Caterpillar engine, Allison 6 speed transmission.

GConner, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can you read a name on the wiper arm?

Bluebirds, Too many years ago to have any record of it. This morning I went by a local sign company and in heavy mil magnetic sign material, "Car In Tow" signs 3" X 24" would $8 each. I am having one made-- if it looks good, may start a cottage industry! That will help pay the fuel from Texas to Oregon so I can do the 4 seminars I do at the FMCA Conventions!

Monaco Service should be able to look that up for you: Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way. Coburg, OR 97408. 877-466-6226

Bill, You might be surprised (but I doubt it) by the number of cars I see in the rear view camera accelerating like craze to get ahead of one more car, but know they will run out of entrance ramp before they pass the coach. Suspect that more than a few are stopped by the sign on the right rear of the car "CAR IN TOW". Magnetic sign is 3" tall and 24" long. Weighs maybe 3 ounces. Just getting a little long in the tooth.

Lots of discussions on the Ford Fusion. Just go to the top right of this page and enter Fusion into the search box.

Jim, No, I agree, it is NOT a legal requirement. But, my reason for using it is that I suspect it will cut down on the idiots trying to merge BETWEEN the coach and toad.

Yes, adheres to the metal (magnetic). I just wipe the area with a damp paper towel before putting it on and make sure the magnetic sign is also clean. No scratches in 4 years.

Yes, we have a magnetic "Car in Tow" sign, that sticks easily on the trunk. But, it is getting long in the tooth. Would love to hear of someone currently selling them.

Frank, If the RPM sounds high, voltage is high or HZ is high, be sure the two breakers on the generator are OFF so you don't harm anything else on your coach. And, absolutely make sure the linkage is totally free. Once removed a mouse nest from a guy's generator-- was holding the throttle open and over-speeding the generator.

Your inverter/charger is not an issue-- it has algorithms for properly charging either wet cell or AGM. Merely a matter of programming it. Advantages of AGM are: Faster charging (only important if you dry camp and have generator run time dedicated to recharging). This would be more important for you with a residential refrigerator if you dry camp. When on shore power, it really doesn't matter if they take an additional hour to charge. The faster charge rate is due to lower internal resistance. This allows the faster recharge without generating unwanted/harmful heat. No maintenance and no out-gassing unless severely overcharged. I suspect that as with wet cell batteries there are some differences in quality. I am quite familiar with Lifeline Batteries. Were introduced to them on our sail boat decades ago. They ARE high quality and stood up well for many years on the severe duty found on our long cruises. I have no first hand information on the AGM's Sams Club sells.

Do you have a "before and after" print-out so you can see exactly what was changed? If so, post it-- that will give us a lot better idea of what work was done.

Gordon, Did they have to bend the axle (i.e. change camber on solid front axle)? Did they have to change/add caster shims (requires separating axle from chassis mount to install/remove shim)? If not, yes that does sound expensive for a check and likely toe adjustment.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The best information on your Trek can probably be found on the Trek Track Website: http://www.nwtfc.com/forum/default.asp Monaco Corp would be another potential source of information: Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way. Coburg, OR 97408. 877-466-6226

This issue affects all Ford modular engines, including the V10.

Roger, Don't know if this link will work, but go to it and download the PDF. It shows both vertical and horizontal mountings: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.wattswater.com%2F1915323.pdf&ei=fhBXU7fyIMTc8AHGq4DIDg&usg=AFQjCNGI07XBYemEzUM49jJIVjjQMxWdqA&bvm=bv.65177938,d.b2U

Yes, most are located in the basement. Most are located between the incoming shore power and the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). That protects everything "downstream" of the surge protector (including ATS). A few locate it between ATS and coach 120 VAC breaker box. That leaves the ATS unprotected, but also protects against over/under voltage and surges from the generator. And be aware that NO surge protector protects against a lightening strike or even close lightening strike. Disconnecting from shore power is best protection against lightening.

The bladder-type accumulator tanks can be installed vertically or horizontally. Should be in their instruction sheet, both with the product and on-line.

Lloyd, No first hand experience with this company, but a couple of very knowledgeable RV suspension guys recommend this company in Seattle for blue-printing the Sheppard box to remove play. One even bought a brand new Sheppard box and had them blue-print it for stock: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/