wolfe10

Raise the bed/ closet to assess the top of the engine and it should be easy to find where the oil fill is. If not, here is the tech number for Monaco-- Frank Phillips is very familiar with Safaris: 877 466-6226. Brett

Below is the reply to fnlatch's Private Message to me. BTW, I would not think this is an air related issue. Yes, air restriction can limit power, but not much air is required at idle (low RPM and no boost), so dying under those conditions would suggest other than air- related issues. Fred, Actually, this would make a great post-- we have several diesel techs on the forum. Copy it and paste a new thread under "engines". But were it mine, I would start by removing the primary fuel filter for the engine and the fuel filter for the generator. Dissect them and see if there is contamination. The other option is that there is a problem with a leak in one of the fuel lines on the suction side of the lift pump (line from tank to primary filter and primary filter to lift pump). Being on the suction side, you would not see fuel leaking out, but air can get in. Same for generator circuit. Now, as to engine stopping-- did it just die, or did it miss before dying. If it just died, may be an electrical issue. Brett

Very nice work. Thanks for the pictures. Bet that will earn you some additional gourmet meals.

The good news is that if you draw too many amps, you will NOT "blow up the RV". What will happen if you exceed the 30 amp draw is that the CG breaker will trip. But, as suggested, better to write down the draws of various appliances (be sure to include the converter or battery charger). You will very quickly learn what you can use and which appliances you have to turn off to run others.

Tilldee, The battery disconnect switch is for your 12 VDC system. It should remain on anytime you are using the coach. Shore power is 120 VAC and runs your large appliances such as roof air, house-style outlets, refrigerator (which can run on propane or 120 VAC), etc. The converter, battery charger or inverter/charger uses shore power to charge the batteries. When you get to a CG, check that voltage and polarity of the outlet are correct. Then turn off the CG breaker. Plug in the coach shore power cord and then turn on the CG breaker. Check voltage when you turn on high draw appliances such as roof A/C's, as many older CG's have small gauge wire and voltage can drop below safe levels (108 VAC is as low as you want to run most appliances). I suggest a digital voltmeter that plugs into a house type outlet in your coach. Makes checking nothing more than glancing at the meter.

You will also have the verify that you have clearance with the wider tire between it an suspension and body parts. As Roger said, your 275's may already have a reasonable safety margin-- won't know until actual coach weighting (4 wheel positions best).

Perhaps I am not picturing how you are powering the brake buddy, but if only from a line from the coach, I see two problems: What happens in a break-away situation-- no power to the brake. The brake buddy takes a lot of amps (for a short time). It is a LONG way from your alternator/coach chassis battery to the cigarette lighter plug of the toad. High amp draws are likely to substantially reduce voltage and therefore brake buddy performance and perhaps life. With coach engine running, check voltage at the brake buddy when you activate it to make sure it is at least 12.0 VDC.

First confirm that voltage is at least 108 when the compressor tries to start. If is does this on shore power, but not on generator, it may be a shore power issue. If not a voltage issue, look into the things Rich mentioned-- pay particular attention to the capacitor. If you are not comfortable working when charged capacitors, have a professional do it. You CAN do a visual check (on-roof inspection)-- if it is leaking or deformed, assume it is bad.

Larrybla, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are these kick down jacks? What model HWH jacks?

The issue is "what is a REGULAR 240 outlet. As I said, a 50 amp RV IS, repeat IS 240 VAC as measured from outer straight (L1) to the other outer straight (L2). But, a 30 amp household dryer that very closely resembles a 30 amp RV. The 30 amp house is 240 VAC, while a 30 amp RV is ONLY 120 VAC-- DO NOT DO THIS.

Pete, Yes, a 50 amp has TWO hots, a neutral and a ground. The problem (and a BIG ONE) is that 30 amp RV wiring has ONE hot, a neutral and a ground. But, it looks somewhat like a 30 amp dryer plug which has TWO hots. Plug a 30 amp RV into a dryer outlet and you will "let the smoke out if everything".

Yes, marine application have one other thing we in motorhomes do not-- unlimited COOLING!

on.vacation, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, of course you are welcome to attend a meeting of any Chapter you may be interested in joining. That certainly includes the Diesel RV Club: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/ You could have enjoyed the pizza and the 10 anniversary (of the chapter) cake in Perry.

" There is no such thing as a town named Terlingua." Indeed, it is a town-- now mostly a ghost town, but it does have a few inhabitants. Just go to Mapquest or other mapping program and enter Terlingua TX. Or: http://ghosttowntexas.com/ Been here, done that.

kadesh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like you are loosing 120 VAC to the inverter. If all other 120 VAC items such as roof A/C work when this happens, look at the breaker for the inverter and then look at the inverter itself. When on shore power, your battery should be charged by the inverter/charger and shore power should be "passed though" to power that microwave (rather than having it powered by the battery through the inverter).

Ya, nothing on their "how it works" page that gives much of an explanation. Not sure what "increases the vapor density" means-- more fuel injected perhaps?? Other than from the injectors, there is no "vapor" in a diesel and their explanation lumps gas and diesel together.

Its purpose is to let air in (to break any siphon affect). Most are installed high enough under the cabinet there they are above the water level. Yes, they should not leak water, but if you have room above it to extend the pipe and mount it higher, that would be my suggestion.

Actually, most if I 10 in Louisiana has been repaved. Less than 50 miles of hump de hump. This was on the way back from Perry on Friday.

And, of course there is another perspective-- for the same $$, one can buy a new entry level gas, 2-3 year old high end gas, 4-5 year old diesel or 6-7 year old high end diesel. No "one answer fits all."

That is about an additional 120 amp draw on the alternator-- not sure I would do it that way.

Can anyone provide a reference in a furnace manufacturers manual/webslte that recommends against using the furnace while driving?

Cottrill630, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you in an area with salt on the road? That is the #1 cause of fins "rotting"/corrosion damage. If you are not the original owner, it may also be damage from a previous owner's operation in these conditions. The only answer is to flush with lots of water after driving in these conditions. This will also help flush the debris from the cooling package (CAC, radiator and in your case transmission cooler).

For absorption or residential refrigerator?

Gerald, Toad weight (actually GCW/Gross Combined Weight) has less effect on flat ground where Aerodynamic Drag accounts for the vast majority of the HP demand. However, on grades, weight becomes the significant factor. So, there really is no single answer to your question. As an example on I 10 in Louisiana (flat) a heavier toad would have little effect. Further west on I 10 in the hill country of Texas, it would make more difference.

John, Which Webcasts did you watch? Observations/suggestions?