wolfe10

Ya, let's draw this one to a close. Feel free to open another one, that hopefully will stay a little more on-topic. Moderator

Please, if you want this thread to stay open, let's stay on the original topic. Thanks. Moderator

lonnemays, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suggest strongly that you get a copy of the actual roadside assistance part of your insurance policy. Many have some "fine print" that leaves you out in the cold/or side of the road as the case may be.

Rich, If like our 2003 Alpine 38FDDS, the diesel fuel fill is accessed by opening the "nose/generator area". It is in the upper, driver's side. On ours, it is powered by the HWH hydraulic system. Never had a problem, so did not look for a "work around" if the hydraulic system failed. Probably a good idea to see what would need to be disconnected/valve opened to allow manual opening.

Alpine used HWH systems for both leveling jacks and on most coaches, for slide operation as well ( electric slide mechanism was used on some bedroom slides as well as some generator slides)

sideboomer, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. That is a size pretty much unique to Michelin. You might start by checking if there are any Michelin dealers who honor the FMCA Fleet discount program: https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts

Dave, Assume you have checked the hydraulic fluid level in the HWH reservoir. If I remember correctly, it is inside the "little door" just behind the right front tire. The dipstick is marked with the correct level. Kind of hard to access that area to add fluid. I found pouring the ATF or HWH fluid (HWH fluid is clear, while ATF is red, but either work fine in the HWH system) into a small (8 ounce size works fine) disposable water bottle (yes, clean and dry). If fluid level OK, does the HWH motor sound like it is working at "normal" RPM or is it racing like the pump is not connected?

SEstes13868, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. GCWR minus GVWR is a good starting point, but doesn't tell the whole story. As you mentioned, hitch rating is a factor. As is chassis AND coach maker towing rating (particularly critical if chassis has had the frame extended). And actual coach weight (loaded) may not be the same as GVWR. If actual weight is less than GVWR and hitch rating and chassis/coach towing ratings are adequate, then GCWR less actual weight gives a valid number.

OdellFamily, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will find a very much more positive experience here.

Congratulations!

Guys/Gals, One of the basic forum rules is no discussion of politics. No problem thus far, because supporting Texas Parks and Wildlife Department is important to all RV'ers (and should be to everyone). But, let's not discuss other Propositions that may have political overtones. Thanks. Brett/moderator

From my Diesel Maintenance Presentation at FMCA Convention 2016-- sorry it doesn't paste very well: Freightliner Chassis Caution Freightliner Chassis have a: Coolant Level Sensor. Freightliner recommends using “regular” diesel coolant, not the new-generation coolants. As of 3/16, Freightliner is changing over to the new-generation coolant, but older chassis must use the “regular” coolant. Additional note-- check your overflow reservoir for the coolant level sensor. My ASSUMPTION is that the new generation coolant has conductivity that is enough different from the low silicate with added SCA coolant that the sensors do not function properly.

Check with Cummins with your engine SN if the Cummins document shows it to be mounted on the engine. Check with Freightliner for your VIN if the Cummins document shows it to be remote mounted. Be aware that the correct filter depends on exactly what coolant you have (whether long-life or one requiring SCA). If coolant is original, Freightliner can tell you what coolant you have.

Raypat, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Either a problem in the Allison ECU or just as likely an issue in the wire from fuse box to ECU. Before spending too much time diagnosing, I would run a new wire and remove the old one. If that doesn't address your problem, here is the guy to contact: https://www.transmissioninstruments.com/

youngtg1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since the last post on this thread was back in February, you might have better luck by sending a MESSAGE to bobged. Just click on his name (left side of his post) then on MESSAGE.

Voted absentee today. Prop 5 FOR. Proposition 5 (SJR 24) “The constitutional amendment dedicating the revenue received from the existing state sales and use taxes that are imposed on sporting goods to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department and the Texas Historical Commission to protect Texas’ natural areas, water quality, and history by acquiring, managing, and improving state and local parks and historic sites while not increasing the rate of the state sales and use taxes.” Explanation Proposition 5 would require the Legislature to allocate the money raised from state sales taxes on sporting goods (i.e., hunting, fishing, outdoor equipment) to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) and the Texas Historical Commission (THC). Revenue from such taxes would be used to improve and manage state and local parks and historic sites, and to acquire new sites. Proposition 5 closes a loophole in the current law that prevents all the revenue raised by these sales taxes from being given to Texas Parks and Wildlife Department and the Texas Historical Commission, thus allowing some of the money to be used to balance the state budget. Arguments For State and local parks are essential to industries such as fishing, hunting, and tourism that benefit Texas economy. Proposition 5 would require the government to support this vital economic sector more fully. It would allow these agencies to make long range plans based on a reliable funding source. Many parks and historic sites of Texas are decaying, and new parks are needed due to population growth in the state. Proposition 5 would provide a sustainable source of funding for their preservation and new park development so they could be enjoyed in the future.

Actually, PRICE is the only reason for using anything but one of the new-generation long-life coolant. In linered or parent bore engines, basically 6 years-- put it in and forget about it.

Mike, I agree. A clogged CAC would merely limit heat transfer, so under higher loads, engine temperatures would rise more quickly than were there good air flow. It would not cause excessive temperature fluctuations under steady-state conditions (like I 10 across Louisiana-- for those not familiar with this section, it is FLAT-FLAT-FLAT). For peace of mind, might want to replace the thermostat (and gasket). It is either that or the fan clutch allowing/causing that much temperature fluctuation. As you can see, I do not think it is "normal" to have an 18 degree F temperature swing under steady state conditions. At least I would not find that acceptable. If the thermostat doesn't lessen the temperature fluctuation under steady state conditions, I would be on the phone to Horton engineers. Looking at this from another perspective, I would sure hate to be in the mountains and start up a long 6% grade with engine coolant temperature at thermostatic control PLUS 18 DEGREES F.

chrisc, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If this issue occurs only on shore power, check all connections and cord ends between male shore power end and ATS or surge protector. Look for signs of overheating in the plug ends or other signs of a poor connection.

Well, algae can clog a fuel filter in any engine. But, modern diesel fuel systems have closer tolerances, so it is common to fit them with finer micron rating filters. Yes, a 2 micron filter will clog faster than a 5 or 10 micron filter.

mcentirejerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, is to verify that the IGNITION SOLENOID is working. Do all the other things that normally only work with the ignition on still work (like dash HVAC fan). Have you unplugged/replugged connections at the shift pad and Allison ECU?

Stu, How hot does it get? Has the fan clutch been checked/replaced?

Two points: I don't believe anyone is suggesting "inflating to the maximum" UNLESS (read that BIG UNLESS, and hopefully not the case) that is the PSI recommended by your tire manufacturer for your actual weights (plus perhaps a 5% fudge factor for safety). And, both tire and wheel PSI are for COLD PSI. Both tire and wheel manufacturers know that PSI will increase with temperature rise.

sangerm, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Pull out your digital voltmeter and check voltage at the house battery(ies) and also the chassis battery(ies) when this happens. Winnebago is pretty good about supplying electric schematics. If voltage at the batteries is 12.0 VDC or above, follow "power out" from the positive side until you find where you don't have it any longer. May be resetable breaker, may be bad connection, may be a solelnoid-based isolator switch (controlled by the "salesman switch". Your coach electrical schematic is where to start.

JWJ4769@GMAIL.COM, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Try this older thread: https://community.fmca.com/topic/1140-repairing-shore-power-cable-power-reel/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-51550