wolfe10

Ya, nothing on their "how it works" page that gives much of an explanation. Not sure what "increases the vapor density" means-- more fuel injected perhaps?? Other than from the injectors, there is no "vapor" in a diesel and their explanation lumps gas and diesel together.

Its purpose is to let air in (to break any siphon affect). Most are installed high enough under the cabinet there they are above the water level. Yes, they should not leak water, but if you have room above it to extend the pipe and mount it higher, that would be my suggestion.

Actually, most if I 10 in Louisiana has been repaved. Less than 50 miles of hump de hump. This was on the way back from Perry on Friday.

And, of course there is another perspective-- for the same $$, one can buy a new entry level gas, 2-3 year old high end gas, 4-5 year old diesel or 6-7 year old high end diesel. No "one answer fits all."

That is about an additional 120 amp draw on the alternator-- not sure I would do it that way.

Can anyone provide a reference in a furnace manufacturers manual/webslte that recommends against using the furnace while driving?

Cottrill630, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you in an area with salt on the road? That is the #1 cause of fins "rotting"/corrosion damage. If you are not the original owner, it may also be damage from a previous owner's operation in these conditions. The only answer is to flush with lots of water after driving in these conditions. This will also help flush the debris from the cooling package (CAC, radiator and in your case transmission cooler).

For absorption or residential refrigerator?

Gerald, Toad weight (actually GCW/Gross Combined Weight) has less effect on flat ground where Aerodynamic Drag accounts for the vast majority of the HP demand. However, on grades, weight becomes the significant factor. So, there really is no single answer to your question. As an example on I 10 in Louisiana (flat) a heavier toad would have little effect. Further west on I 10 in the hill country of Texas, it would make more difference.

John, Which Webcasts did you watch? Observations/suggestions?

Bob, The most accurate is to check your odometer against mile markers. We just did this on the way back from Perry: On I 10 in Louisiana, noted reading at mile maker 100 and again at miles 0. I added .1 miles to the actual distance for lane changes. The difference is your calibration factor. BTW, it came out very close to the difference noted between GPS and speedometer. Divide that number (accurate miles covered reading) by gallons added. Note that MPG on a single tank may not be accurate, as even a slight difference in level can make gallons of difference in fill on most large-tank applications. So, while we check each tank, we only record total trip MPG.

raypaiz, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year/HP is your V10. Yes, the earlier 275 HP versions saw an improvement with tuning-- the later model 362 HP versions no so much. All benefit (my opinion) from modifying the shift points so the transmission does not downshift until higher throttle positions are reached.

CWorthy, Please tell us what coach you have and exactly what issues you have had with it. What other "toys" have you had and how was their reliability compared with your motorhome-- boat? airplane? other?

I agree-- the M&G is an excellent system. Yet there are a number of toads that do not have room to move the master cylinder forward from the vacuum booster to accommodate the M&G brake (including our Ford Focus that makes a great light-weight tow car)! Again, there is NO single brake that fits all needs.

Underway, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Gas or diesel? If diesel, what engine? Have you weighed the coach and what you plan to tow so you know what your engine will be pulling/pushing?

Sorry, there is no such thing as the "ideal toad braking system" for all coach/toad combinations. Some work well with an air brake coach, but fit a limited number of toads (due to underhood layout). Some are permanent installed-- great if you plan on keeping the toad for a long time-- not so good if you tow different vehicles or trade often. Some are easily moved from toad to toad, but are bulky and require setting up each time you tow. The poster child for this is Roadmaster who makes a variety of different toad braking systems-- the recognize there is no "one size fits all".

A call to your chassis maker will quickly tell you what you have (in terms of mechanical vs electrical gauges) and also point you in the right direction for diagnosing the issue.

I can see one major problem with supporting the slides with a brace to the ground. Any movement of the levelers and/or even normal movement as you move around the coach could cause undesirable movement between coach and slide. Suspect few are robust enough to have the slide firmly planted and coach moving even slightly.

XRailroader, Sorry to hear of your experience. But to give up the experience of attending an FMCA Convention because of the actions of one single volunteer???

Spend a weekend in the coach-- even if it is in the back yard. Best way to see what things you want to have along. Keep a pad of paper by your side of the bed and hers-- add things as you think of them. Consider what you would want at home during a similar time period. Within reason duplicate it (assuming you don't collect bowling balls, etc). This is RVing, NOT roughing it!

Jack, Monaco fit the air intake system. I would check with them as far as replacement for the brass sintered metal "filter". Indeed, you should be able to get air flow through it or it can't possibly work. BTW, the air filter minder can easily be checked with no special tools-- just suck on the vacuum hose-- you should easily be able to peg the minder and it should retain that "max vacuum" reading until you push the reset button. Part of my routine annual check list to confirm that it is working. Remember the air filter minder reads in column inches of water-- not much when converted to PSI.

Ray, Yes, you got my gray cells working. So, being at the FMCA Convention in Perry right now, went to talk with Mike Snell with Monaco and had him walk me through their chassis (bare chassis in their display). They buy the front and back "sections" from Freightliner and then they build their custom bridge between them. Looks more rigid than the "just frame rail" chassis and are able to move tanks to balance weights (inside fully enclosed basement area). He said the "ride and drives" by owners of older Monaco products saw the new product as an improvement (ride and handling) from the original 8 bag suspension. Those who own the older 8 bag who have actually driven the new-generation Roadmaster/Freightliner chassis, PLEASE CHIME IN -- I have no firsthand experience with it.

Carrol, I see you have made a total of 4 posts-- all very negative on RV ownership. Admittedly, they can have problems/cost $$, but so can any other complex "toy" like a boat, airplane, etc. What do you own and what are your experiences with it? What point do you want the rest of us to take away from your posts?

Bxpit, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While there are more scenic routes across Texas (U.S. 90 from San Antonio to Van Horn for example), I 10 is an easy shot all the way. Take I 12 in Louisiana-- shorter than staying on 10 and better road surface.

dwaleri, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Admittedly this is a two person job, but have your wife operate the jacks while you walk around the coach and listen for the loud motor sound of the jack motor running. BTW, what jacks do you have?