wolfe10

BobandBobbie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A little more information would help us give meaningful comments: What kind of coach do you have? How long a trip? How do you travel-- move every day or so, stop for a week or so and explore an area??

I would start by contacting Monaco to determine how the coach is/should be wired-- quite likely what you experience is normal for your coach-- no bad breaker or GFI tripped (I say that because everything works on generator and/or shore power). Very, very few coaches have all outlets wired through the inverter. The "fix" could be very easy or quite complex depending on how the coach is wired. If the inverter output goes through a sub-panel that is located near the main 120 panel, the "fix" is as simple as moving the hots AND neutrals from the main panel to the inverter-powered sub panel.

We use http://www.gasbuddy.com/ to find the least expensive fuel on our route. Then Google maps to verify there is room to maneuver the coach. In many cases, it is Murphy Oil/Walmart. The beauty of most diesels is that they can go a LONG way without needing to stop for fuel. Only issue-- when parking/storing, have the tank FULL to minimize condensation.

Biobor JF is what I use in motorhome and boat when storing diesel. Again, having the tank full is really important. Biobor does not eliminate water, it just keeps algae from growing. I have no first hand knowledge of Pri-D.

uechiyondan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is the voltage reading at the fuse for that circuit? While ground issues can also cause low voltage readings, it is unlikely that all those items use the same ground attachment point. Clearly, if they do, that is another place to check. Are all the affected items wired to only work with the ignition on, or do/did they work with the key in the off position or out of the ignition. If only with the ignition on, the IGNITION SOLENOID is another place to check-- voltage at the IN lug and also at the OUT lug. The contact surface of the solenoids can become pitted which causes resistance and drop in voltage.

Algae grows at a diesel/water interface. The key is to keep water out of the tank. Two primary sources of water-- one within your control. Anytime you will be parking/storing it, make sure the fuel tank is FULL. This reduces water from condensation. Example: You have a 100 gallon fuel tank. You used half, leaving you 50 gallons of fuel and 50 gallons of air. When the ambient temperature reaches the dew point of the air in the tank, the moisture in that air CONDENSES and goes to the bottom of the tank (water is heavier than diesel). Each day as the temperature rises, the tank "breaths out" and each night, with falling temperatures it "breaths in". Then moisture in that air can condense. So, add your BIOCiDE, but also make sure that the tank is full. BTW, algae is black and slimy-- is that what you have or is it particulate contamination?

fhuff02, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You chassis maker specs and installs the air filter. So check with them (Freightliner or Spartan) as to part number and also what is involved in changing it (though the labor may be a little different depending on how the "house" as placed on top of the chassis.

Verjay, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Probably sounds like a funny question, buy where have they been located/used. If in a dry climate, sitting is less harmful-- that is why airplanes are stored around the Tucson area. Has either been operated on salty roads?

dsimmons, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is very rare for a motorhome to have perfect left/right weight distribution. And, with a leaf spring suspension (assume what you have-- if not, let us know what chassis you have) it is pretty common for a coach to be lower on the heavy side. First thing is to move you heavy items to the "high side". Then, any good truck spring shop can install a spacer or additional leaf (if quite a lot of weight difference) on the low side. If you have all wheel position weights, would appreciate knowing them. I know RVSEF will be at the Perry FMCA Convention doing all wheel position weighing.

ultraglider, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. MPG is a reasonably complex issue. On flat ground, added weight is far less important than on any upgrades. On the flats, aerodynamics is the main issue. But (and that is BIG but), fuel is not the largest expense unless you drive a lot of miles. Depreciation far overshadows fuel expenses for most RV'ers.

The air compressor is mounted ON the engine, passenger's side. The air governor will be either on it or near it between it and the air dryer (follow the air lines). Do you have air at the air chuck (for filling tires)? Did you do the check involving the parking brake-- results?

jpveev, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Call "the usual suspects": http://community.fmca.com/topic/685-salvage-yards-for-motorhomes/?hl=salvage BTW it looks the same as the propane door on our 1997 Safari Sahara.

With that long exhaust manifold, it is a good idea to have it checked for straightness. Mill it if needed. Not expensive. Replace the head to manifold gaskets, all exhaust manifold bolts bolt locks and manifold to turbo gasket. If any of the manifold bolts are difficult to remove, don't hesitate to soak them with a good penetrating oil. Much better than breaking a bolt.

Brian, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The good news is that an exhaust leak on a diesel is pretty easy to detect. An exhaust leak leaves BLACK traces around the leak. Look at the head to exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold itself (that long one piece manifold is prone to leaking), manifold to turbo, turbo itself and on down the exhaust circuit. Let us know what you see.

gsrcek, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The gas solenoid will give but a SINGLE click (as it opens). It would be defective if multiple clicks. The igniter gives several clicks-- until flame is detected. Put your finger on the solenoid valve as someone turn the refrigerator on (or to a colder temperature). You should feel a (one) solid "click" as the valve opens.

Concerning the fogged window, if you get down to the west coast of FL, these guys are very good-- had them fix 4 of our fogged dual pane (or is that pain) windows: http://suncoastdesigners.com/

If this "out of level" is consistent, first suspect is that the sensor may need adjustment.

klparker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing is to determine if this is a real problem (no air pressure) or gauge problem. After the engine has been running long enough that is should have built air pressure (and did before the problem started), turn off the engine. Walk around the coach and listen for an air leak-- if so, fix. If not, continue. Push in the parking brake plunger (to release the parking brake). Does it release? If so, you have 40+ PSI. Re-apply parking brake. Lightly pump service brake 5 times. Again try to release the parking brake. If it does, you very likely have a gauge, not air pressure problem. If you have a build-in air chuck, you could also check pressure there. If it truly is an air pressure issue, start by replacing the AIR GOVERNOR-- not expensive or difficult to replace. It turns the engine-driven compressor "on" and "off" (actually loads and unloads the compressor valves).

Not sure there is a "one answer fits all". We are on our second coach that we bought older, used that had good "bones", but needed a major re-do-- basically neglected, not abuses. Did most of the work ourselves, including new flooring, appliances, window coverings, some furniture, as well as a COMPLETE (I mean complete) mechanical inspection, service and in many cases upgrade. We end up with a very nice coach for 25% of what a new one of comparable quality and amenities would cost. But, clearly not everyone can do or is interested in doing that amount of work. Hiring it out is another option, and would likely add quite a lot to the cost. Others just want new-- either because they are tired of the old one, or can't "live without" some of the toys found on newer coaches. Heck, we don't have slides, but frankly don't want them. We have found that we are pretty good at going to an RV show (particularly a large one like the Tampa RV Show or the upcoming FMCA Convention) and being able to look at new/newer coaches, keeping our current one in mind. It really helps gel the "upgrade this one or buy another" question. It also gives up a lot of ideas (take a camera with you) of what upgrades you would do the one you have now.

Ray is correct. So is Herman, with my observation that very few of those at vehicle "help lines" are conversant with the details of the Magnuson-Moss Warrant Act.

btchart, Yes, as long as the tires on each side in the rear are very close to the same circumference. If they are not, then the "taller" tire will carry a disproportionate share of the weight.

Azpics, Particularly on a steer axle, I agree. In panic situations you do want to of the same tires on that axle.

Have you tried Monaco? 877-466-6226 Have your VIN handy.

http://www.dieselrvclub.org/planned?eventId=702603&EventViewMode=EventDetails March 2-7, 2014 Brunswick GA Three detailed maintenance seminars along with lots of fun events. Only a couple of spots left. Dianne and I will be there. Brett

Again the question-- for engine starting batteries (chassis batteries) or house batteries (where deep cycle are superior)?