wolfe10

Bob, The most accurate is to check your odometer against mile markers. We just did this on the way back from Perry: On I 10 in Louisiana, noted reading at mile maker 100 and again at miles 0. I added .1 miles to the actual distance for lane changes. The difference is your calibration factor. BTW, it came out very close to the difference noted between GPS and speedometer. Divide that number (accurate miles covered reading) by gallons added. Note that MPG on a single tank may not be accurate, as even a slight difference in level can make gallons of difference in fill on most large-tank applications. So, while we check each tank, we only record total trip MPG.

raypaiz, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year/HP is your V10. Yes, the earlier 275 HP versions saw an improvement with tuning-- the later model 362 HP versions no so much. All benefit (my opinion) from modifying the shift points so the transmission does not downshift until higher throttle positions are reached.

CWorthy, Please tell us what coach you have and exactly what issues you have had with it. What other "toys" have you had and how was their reliability compared with your motorhome-- boat? airplane? other?

I agree-- the M&G is an excellent system. Yet there are a number of toads that do not have room to move the master cylinder forward from the vacuum booster to accommodate the M&G brake (including our Ford Focus that makes a great light-weight tow car)! Again, there is NO single brake that fits all needs.

Underway, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Gas or diesel? If diesel, what engine? Have you weighed the coach and what you plan to tow so you know what your engine will be pulling/pushing?

Try this: http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_fmcachaptersearch&view=search&Itemid=98 If for any reason it does not work, click on "+ search" and then type in "Newmar" (no quotes). Here is what it pulls up: NEWMAR INTERNATIONAL OF FMCA view my list DESCRIPTION: The Newmar International chapter is open to all Newmar Corporation motorhome owners. We publish a newsletter three times a year complete with highlights and pictures from the most recent pre-rally and information about upcoming pre-rallies. HISTORY - The Newmar International chapter of FMCA was formed in Deming, New Mexico in March 1998. This action resulted from an informal gathering of Newmar motorhome owners at the Winter 1997 FMCA International Convention in Pomona, California. At that gathering, and in the months that followed, thirty-four prospective members signed a sheet stating their interest in forming such a chapter. J.L. and Barbara Sturtz headed up the effort to handle the required paperwork with FMCA and acted as wagonmasters for the Deming, New Mexico formation meeting. PURPOSE - This chapter exists to promote social, recreational, and informational exchange activities which enhance the enjoyment and pleasurable use of Newmar family motorcoaches. Our members come from all walks of life with some being retired, some semi-retired, and some still working. We are an informal group of fun-loving relaxed people. RALLIES - The chapter holds two pre-convention rallies each year at which official chapter business meetings are conducted. We meet to share experiences, discuss various ways to handle personal affairs on the road, eat a lot, play games, visit interesting places in the rally area, and eat some more. Please visit our website for more information and an application. Click here for Chapter Officers and Contact Info

Sorry, there is no such thing as the "ideal toad braking system" for all coach/toad combinations. Some work well with an air brake coach, but fit a limited number of toads (due to underhood layout). Some are permanent installed-- great if you plan on keeping the toad for a long time-- not so good if you tow different vehicles or trade often. Some are easily moved from toad to toad, but are bulky and require setting up each time you tow. The poster child for this is Roadmaster who makes a variety of different toad braking systems-- the recognize there is no "one size fits all".

A call to your chassis maker will quickly tell you what you have (in terms of mechanical vs electrical gauges) and also point you in the right direction for diagnosing the issue.

I can see one major problem with supporting the slides with a brace to the ground. Any movement of the levelers and/or even normal movement as you move around the coach could cause undesirable movement between coach and slide. Suspect few are robust enough to have the slide firmly planted and coach moving even slightly.

XRailroader, Sorry to hear of your experience. But to give up the experience of attending an FMCA Convention because of the actions of one single volunteer???

Spend a weekend in the coach-- even if it is in the back yard. Best way to see what things you want to have along. Keep a pad of paper by your side of the bed and hers-- add things as you think of them. Consider what you would want at home during a similar time period. Within reason duplicate it (assuming you don't collect bowling balls, etc). This is RVing, NOT roughing it!

Jack, Monaco fit the air intake system. I would check with them as far as replacement for the brass sintered metal "filter". Indeed, you should be able to get air flow through it or it can't possibly work. BTW, the air filter minder can easily be checked with no special tools-- just suck on the vacuum hose-- you should easily be able to peg the minder and it should retain that "max vacuum" reading until you push the reset button. Part of my routine annual check list to confirm that it is working. Remember the air filter minder reads in column inches of water-- not much when converted to PSI.

Ray, Yes, you got my gray cells working. So, being at the FMCA Convention in Perry right now, went to talk with Mike Snell with Monaco and had him walk me through their chassis (bare chassis in their display). They buy the front and back "sections" from Freightliner and then they build their custom bridge between them. Looks more rigid than the "just frame rail" chassis and are able to move tanks to balance weights (inside fully enclosed basement area). He said the "ride and drives" by owners of older Monaco products saw the new product as an improvement (ride and handling) from the original 8 bag suspension. Those who own the older 8 bag who have actually driven the new-generation Roadmaster/Freightliner chassis, PLEASE CHIME IN -- I have no firsthand experience with it.

Carrol, I see you have made a total of 4 posts-- all very negative on RV ownership. Admittedly, they can have problems/cost $$, but so can any other complex "toy" like a boat, airplane, etc. What do you own and what are your experiences with it? What point do you want the rest of us to take away from your posts?

Bxpit, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While there are more scenic routes across Texas (U.S. 90 from San Antonio to Van Horn for example), I 10 is an easy shot all the way. Take I 12 in Louisiana-- shorter than staying on 10 and better road surface.

dwaleri, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Admittedly this is a two person job, but have your wife operate the jacks while you walk around the coach and listen for the loud motor sound of the jack motor running. BTW, what jacks do you have?

The Workhorse W chassis with 8.1 and Allison is a very good gas chassis.

Stanpack6, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If the voltage at the battery is dropping like like that, the battery likely bad. Particularly if indeed it has a new starter. I guess it could be an engine problem, but easily eliminated as the cause by turning the engine over by hand (assume it is the Cummins . If the voltage at the battery is not dropping, but voltage at the starter is dropping, there is likely a loose connection on either positive or ground side.

Jim, Along with a fuse at both coach and toad battery positive terminals, any standard 4 wire Bosch style relay will work. Oversize it-- I use 40 amp relays with the in line fuses sized to protect the wire-- 8 gauge minimum. Any ignition hot source can be used to close the relay.

Small correction to Ray's post -- today most Class A's, either gasoline or diesel, are built on chassis NOT made by coach builder. For gas, Ford (since Workhorse left the business). For diesel, most are Freightliner or Spartan, though there ARE a very few coach makers who do build their own chassis as well. Monaco used to make quite a few of their own chassis, but no longer -- they are now on Freightliner chassis.

I understand. One correction, your coffee pot uses for 4 AMPS of 120 VAC. Amps time Volts= Watts, so it uses 480 watts of power-- not much compared with, say an A/C or even a 1500 watt hair dryer. BTW, some items are less sensitive to low voltage-- resistance heaters for example. And, read the voltage range for your converter or inverter/charger. Many operate over a wider voltage range as well. Brett

Standards for 120 VAC are 120 +/- 10%. So, 108-132. The critical issue is what is voltage when you turn on 120 VAC appliances, particularly those with higher amp draws such as A/C's. If voltage does not drop below 107/108 under load, you are doing no harm.

If not, you can Private Message your E-mail address.

Bill, Our coach has painted sides. Sadly the only RX I know of is to wash it enough to keep the streaks off. Sometimes all it takes is a damp towel and dry towel. I know some coat the roof, and suspect some of the products work well. But, none are inexpensive.

Economy mode makes ZERO difference on flat land cruising. It only makes a difference on places that the throttle goes to or close to WOT. So, on I 10 in Louisiana, no difference. On I 10 further west in the hill country of Texas substantial difference. Ray, I am surprised you have to push the up arrow to get the mode button to work. Normally, you can go from power mode to economy mode (and back) by merely pressing the mode button.