wolfe10

The Sable was a rare beast-- very few made, so not sure anyone here on the Forum can help. I would suggest you call Monaco and ask to speak with one of the old hands who came over from Safari. It is possible that they have a wiring schematic for your coach: 877-466-6226. Have your VIN handy.

Gerald, Can GFI outlets wear out-- yes. And, yes a GFI outlet from a box store will work assuming its dimension are the same as your current outlet. That is not to say that there isn't a problem with the ice maker. But as you suggest, replacing the GFI is a reasonable first step if the ice maker works on another GFI protected outlet.

Not sure of the difference-- gently pulling the motorhome forward or gently backing the toad up. In both cases you are locking the bars in the EXTENDED position. I will admit I often gently push the toad back to achieve this-- at least locking one arm in the extended position. Then drive the coach forward gently, turning slightly to lock the other arm. And, if the arms don't lock easily, determine the reason and fix it. Tow bars live in a relatively dirty environment and can get "gunked up"

Frankly, since the merger, Flying J has ceased to be price-competitive. http://www.gasbuddy.com/ is my friend.

Jerry, Have you called Freightliner, Gaffney with your VIN? That would be where I would start.

Jerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis do you have-- that may help identify the location of the proper wire.

usbears, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Read the wattage-- most are 1200-1500 watt. About the same as a space heater. But they move a lot of air and that air is exposed to outside temperatures as it moves up through the A/C upper unit. So, your space heater of the same wattage will actually give you not only more heat, but because of the fan the space heater will likely feel a lot warmer. Brett

Actually sufficient caster and proper toe-in make a significant difference in tracking. And, for your complaint, I would start with track bars. If you are not familiar with them, here is what they do: Those long leaf springs and the shackles allow side to side movement of axle to chassis. When side winds, bumps, etc cause this to happen, it IS a steering input. This requires you to make a steering input to correct. A track bar (aka Panhard rod) allows for full vertical movement between axle and chassis, but substantially minimizes side to side movement between them.

OK, in order, here is what I would do: Set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation based on actual weight. Check and replace any sway bar bushings that are not 100% Check shocks-- don't automatically replace. Drive over parking lot speed bumps at normal/low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, shocks need replacing. If it doesn't bounce more than 3/4 of a cycle, they are too stiff. Get an alignment by a good truck shop that will set caster toward max of specs and verify correct toe-in. Track bars (aka panhard rods) front and rear. STOP and evaluate results. Let us know symptoms at this point and we can help spend your money. Brett

Acreed, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure anyone on-line can answer your question. Parkinson can exhibit such a wide range of symptoms from almost negligible to debilitating. No "this is how it affects everyone". Probably your doctor would be a better judge of what you are capable of. In addition to the driving question, you also need to address the "chores" associated with RV'ing. Whether you are capable or your wife is and is willing to do them.

Gerald, What year? What transmission? 2 or 4 wheel drive? Here is a great starting resource here at FMCA: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Just a word of caution: While ticat900's suggestion of jumper wire from house to chassis battery is absolutely correct electrically, be VERY VERY careful doing this, as allowing either end of that jumper to touch either a negative battery terminal or any piece of metal on the coach creates a DEAD SHORT and can easily become red hot and cause a fire.

Clay, I use the same model-- actually a 1500 for chassis and 2012 for house when in storage. The deslufation feature is the primary difference and reason I chose it over other models.

Gerald, Yes, that is one of the several reasonable ways to maintain chassis battery charge.

Rocky, Yes, some jacks (RVA rear jacks for example) have rubber or polyurethane bushings that allow small amounts of movement to accommodate uneven ground. Particularly the OE rubber bushings can degrade, causing excessive play and rattle.

If this occurred coincident with work in the engine room (you mention changing coolant), I would check that the connections are clean and tight, no broken or frayed wires before spending money on a sendor.

Generally chassis maker installs a separate temperature sending unit than the engine manufacturer. But, call your chassis maker with your chassis serial number to verify.

Winnebago should also be able to help you-- give them a call with your VIN.

The salesman switch, also know by other names such as battery disconnect switch is generally close to the entrance door of the coach. It allows one to leave lights on in the coach and rather than going around turning all off and then back on when you return, you just turn off this "master switch". The switch may either be manual or it may be used to control a solenoid that then connects/disconnects the battery bank from fuse box. And, as I mentioned above, you also likely have a large fuse near the battery that also needs to be checked.

When you say everything is dead, can you start the engine (i.e. is chassis battery functioning)? If just the house systems are down, look for the "salesman switch" near the entrance door that turns on/off most all 12 VDC. And, use a digital voltmeter (starting under $20) to determine exact battery voltage. If batteries are 12.2+ VDC, but nothing works, start at the battery to see if the relay controlled by the salesman switch and/or a large fuse is bad.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/ Click on 30 amp service.

Yes, sounds like battery problem. First, let's identify which battery bank you are talking about. Please verify that the shades operate on the HOUSE battery bank, not CHASSIS battery bank. If house, that bank should charge from either engine (alternator) or from shore power/generator via your charger or inverter/charger. If chassis, it should charge from engine and MAY, repeat MAY also charge from your charger or inverter/charger (not all are wired to charge from shore power/generator OK from either alternator or charger or inverter charger, voltage at the batteries should be 13- 14.5 VDC. As soon as charging source is removed, the batteries quickly dissipate their "surface charge" and drop to voltage of a 100% charged 12 VDC battery-- 12.7 VDC. From there the voltage should drop very slowly (depending on amp draw and size of battery bank (in amp-hrs). 50% discharged is 12.2 VDC. As an example, if your batteries are in good condition and fully charged and you have 4 6VDC golf cart batteries for your house bank (and the shades run on the house battery as I suspect they do) you have 440 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. So, if you run a 10 amp load, it would take 22 hours to discharge your battery bank to 50%. If the voltage drop is as quick (below 12.7 VDC) you very likely have one or more bad batteries. And if over a year or so old, replace all batteries that make up that bank. Brett

Here is a direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCv8M-q80Lc

Frank, Check the sway bar end link bushings. If any play/you can see any daylight between bushings and bar or bushings and frame rail, they can rattle.

Yup, the critical question is whether anything that normally works from the chassis battery with the key OFF still works. If so, you are absolutely correct-- look for a problem before the ignition solenoid/ignition switch. BTW, if a voltmeter shows no voltage on either large lug of the ignition solenoid, it is another indication that the problem is between the battery and solenoid/other fuses.