wolfe10

Michael, Right now, exactly what 120 VAC items does your inverter power? Have you pushed the reset buttons on the inverter?

Michael, You don't mention what generator you have, but most have posted consumption rates. And, over a gallon an hour IS excessive, particularly at light loads. Are you sure the tank was filled to the same level at the "before" and "after" fill-up? But, another thought. It is not energy efficient to run a generator just to power, say a TV and battery charger producing only a few amps. Have you considered running the TV on an inverter and only running the generator to power large items like A/C's and to charge the batteries when they are discharged? Not knowing how your coach is set up, that may involve a larger battery bank as well as an inverter-- you will have to weight the relative costs.

On a rear radiator, front is front of vehicle. And in most applications where you have a SANDWICHED cooling system, the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is in FRONT of the radiator. Since the fan pushes air from the front and it exhausts out the back, most debris is "filtered" by the front of the CAC. That is why the majority of your cleaning must be done from the front-- accessing the area from the bedroom or closet. On side radiators, air is pulled by the fans from the outside and exhausts to the engine room. Most debris will be on the outside of the CAC-- hence much easier to get to to clean.

John, Yes, a rear radiator/CAC needs to be cleaned at least once a year from the rear AND from the front, as the front is where the vast majority of the debris accumulates. Also, be sure that your crankcase breather hose has been extended to behind the fan shroud or you will add oil vapor to the dirt to insure that you will need to pull the radiator and CAC to get it clean!

Well, FMCA's 2013 towing guide (4 wheels down) was in the January FMCA Magazine and here on their website: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Herman, In a word, YES. The air dryer is immediately downstream of the engine-driven air compressor. So between air compressor and first (wet) air tank.

DO IT. The option I use is to get a Bendix factory reman (NOT reman by Bubba or his friends). That way the factory overhauled it and replaced, not only the filters but also heater, valves, etc. Not much more money if you figure your time as worth anything.

Correct, a CONTINUOUS DUTY solenoid is different from an INTERMITTENT DUTY solenloid. Intermittent duty solenoids are more common, as that is the duty cycle used for starting.

dhgraves, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I will address part of your question-- cost. Have you priced the Michelins through the FMCA Michelin Fleet Account? As to whether the other size will work, go to each tire manufacturer's website and compare all tire dimensions and carrying capacities. And, the service center is correct-- irrespective of how much tread is left, EITHER cracks OR 10 years old means REPLACE.

Out of round means that the tire is "egg" shaped instead of round. Tire dealers have RUN-OUT GAUGES that can very quickly measure how "out of round" it is. For front tires, MY specs are no more than .035" run out. Run out can be in the circumference or side to side. If more than .035" run out, it is common to deflate the tire and remount it 180 degrees around the wheel and recheck. If that doesn't do it, you have a choice of TRUING the tire or getting a new tire. Do not be afraid of having the tire trued-- I have all my front tires trued, as do many OTR truckers. Totally round (from truing) will run longer and smoother than even a slightly egg shaped tire, so the little rubber that is shaved off the high points is not a problem.

The clear plastic "hub" should have a concentric ring with arrow and writing showing minimum oil level. Max is sometimes another marked ring or the bottom of the removable rubber plug.

Best advice is to call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number. They can look up your actual engine and give you the FACTS. Caterpillar 877 777-3126.

Harry, Doing a search on FMCA's main website for "Classified" turned up this contact-- might give her a call on Monday: For information about classified advertising, contact Bridget Lynn, classifieds coordinator, (800) 543-3622, (800) 543-4717 Fax, e-mail magazineclassifieds@fmca.com

Do you have a plastic BOWL? or is this something else. If you are going to the trouble to change the bowl, I would just replace the filter along with the bowl.

Joe, Please tell us what chassis you have--Ford or Workhorse. Has it done this since new? Thanks. Brett

Charles, Might look at this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2863-adding-profile-photo-on-forum/

Charles, I am a bit concerned by your observation/advice. A propane furnace does NOT take in outside air. The inside air is recirculated (after being heated in the furnace) and the air for combustion enters the furnace ONLY from the outside and then is exhausted only to the outside. So, if you are getting a lot of cold air from your furnace vent(s) you need to have your furnace checked. Now, if you are talking about the dash HVAC system, indeed, it can take in cold air (and lots of it) from the outside. Blocking off the dash HVAC air intake may be warranted in extremely cold conditions.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to hook everything up after loading the coach and THEN measure the drop you will need to make the hitch level.

I can see no reason that loss of hydraulic assist would cause the steering to lock up. To get an idea of the huge amount of effort required to turn the steering wheel without hydraulic assist, try turning the wheel with the engine stopped. That should give you a good idea of the steering effort without hydraulic assist."

Spearfish, Please see this topic--same subject: http://community.fmca.com/topic/5027-list-of-flat-towing-vehicles-kia-missing/ BTW, are you a spearfisherman? I have done a lot of that off our sailboat in the Bahamas.

No need to run wires the 15' between battery banks. Locate your battery boost solenoid. One large lug will be to the house battery, the other to the chassis battery. Install the Echo Charger between them. Said another way, use the boost solenoid as if you were connecting directly to the positive terminals of the battery banks (because electrically, that IS what you are doing).

Glad it was an inexpensive fix.

I would start by calling Cummins. Cummins 800 343-7357 Does the Allison shift pad illuminate with the key on? If not, call Allison as well. Allison help line 800 252 5283

Said another way, you can adapt 50 amp shore power down to 30 amp AND can adapt 30 amp shore power to a 50 amp connection, but as Mr Boyer said, 30 amp cords are three wire (one hot, one neutral and one ground). 50 amp cords are larger gauge since they are capable of carrying 50 amps on EACH hot and are four wire (TWO hots, one neutral and one ground).

If he answer that, his wife may move him to the lighter side of the BASEMENT.