wolfe10

Yes, most block heaters have have a regular 120 VAC plug with ground that would be plugged into a 120 VAC outlet. Many also have a remote on/off switch.

Actually, I much prefer ranchmink's auxiliary cooler, THEN in-radiator cooler unless you are always in sub-tropical climates. A stand alone cooler can OVER-COOL in low ambient temperatures. And, Herman asked some good questions-- let's narrow down what overheats (from transmission temperature gauge if you have one) as well as engine coolant gauge. If it is engine coolant temperature that rises, followed by a rise in transmission temperature, attacking the root cause would be preferable.

Since this is an air filter thread, that raises a good question: what is your air filter minder reading? How old is your air filter? And Cummins dealership, Cummins Southern Plains is on the east loop (610) in Houston.

I think it is well recognized in the industry that turning the refrigerator upside down for 24 hours is NOT a long-term solution. You are likely faced with the "replace with new" or "new cooling unit" decision. Would certainly NOT pay labor to do the inversion "test".

Agree. Many times, the bean-counters make poor decisions on engineering issues.

Bob, What brand and model/style of awning do your have? The locking mechanisms vary with brand and model.

Not sure I would agree with that statement. Both Cummins and Caterpillar recommend traditional air filters over the K&N style filters. And at least in Caterpillar's case, they have "no skin in the game", since they do not make air filters for on-highway applications. It is more a matter that the engine manufacturers want to minimize the dirt that gets to the engine. So, if you are running high air filter minder readings (restrictions in air filter system) my suggestion is to start by "tuning up" your air plumbing: Larger diameter, smooth wall fewer or more gentle turns from side of coach to air filter. Many chassis makers just send the chassis to the coach builder with flex hose, and in many cases there is a LOT of excess hosing that contributes to restriction. If that does not reduce restriction to an acceptable level, look to see if you can fit a larger filter housing in the available space. Take your measurements to a truck wrecking yard and look for a housing that size and inlet/outlet size. Should be very inexpensive. Then just replace the filter element with a new one. Brett

Suspect you are talking about one of the "buck and boosts". First question-- what is voltage where you are camped or is this just a general question? Acceptable voltage WITH YOUR HEAVIEST LOADS RUNNING is 120 VAC +/- 10%. So 108-132. If you are in older CG's where voltage during peak useage time and high amp usage by you is below 108 VAC, yes it may be worth considering. Note, some CG's do not allow them, as they DO allow you to consume more power, thus lowering overall CG voltage.

Mike, First, welcome to the FMCA Forum. I think a little clarification is needed. In your old coach, the decision as to whether power your 120 VAC system from generator or shore power was made manually, by your physically plugging in generator output OR shore power cord to the cord powering your 120 VAC breaker box. Sounds like your new coach has an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) to automatically perform that function. So, it that is the case, all you need to do is plug the shore power cord into the CG outlet if your shore power cord is hard wired to the coach OR additionally, plug the shore power cord into the receptical on the coach.

Terry, Good write-up. If you know your total system capacity, that makes the math a LOT easier. This is best determined by your coach maker, as they make the final decision on things like motor aid water heater/no motor aid water heater, etc. But, your chassis maker's numbers can get you very close. I know Caterpillar ELC comes in concentrate-- that is what I use in my Caterpillar-powered coach. With a Cummins, I would check with them to see if they have an OAT-based concentrate as well. This is not to suggest that one is better than the other, but if engine service is reqired, it is much simpler to be using coolant by your engine manufacturer.

Locate the GFI and reset it. Much more likely that the GFI tripped. If it trips again, unplug everything plugged into a GFI protected outlet and reset the GFI. If it trips with nothing plugged in, you may have a bad GFI or wiring issue (clearly if you have an outside outlet, it could have water in it). If the GFI doesn't trip with all the appliances unplugged, start plugging them in one at a time. That should help identify the grimlin.

Jobaja, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What area of the country are you in? If a humid area, you may need to put a dehumidifer in it. Mold and mildew only grow in high-humidity environments. If not in a humid area, have you checked for leaks (particularly if this is in only one area)?

Andy, That is a very common Michelin tire. Here is one: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/tireInfo.do?tread=XZA3%2B%20EVERTREAD Or go here and click on RV tire guide: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/reference-material.jsp

Doug, Tell us what chassis you have. Advice for a Ford F53 chassis may not be the same if you have a 43' diesel pusher with IFS.

Also, pull out your Allison book or look up Allison diagnostic codes and, using the Allison shift pad with igition on, engine off, check for diagnostic codes. That will tell you if the transmission has sensed a problem.

With your cable controlled valve vs a manual valve with T handle, you will need to find the valve itself to determine if this is a cable or valve issue. To remove the valve, lean the coach TOWARD the side the drain is on with the valve open to drain as much as possible. Then, lean it the OTHER WAY so the valve is now "high and dry" before removing it.

Mark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. NO, a bulging battery is not normal. It is a sign of either a bad battery or bad (or more likely if a newer coach) of an improperly programmed inverter/charger. Either a bad cell in a battery and/or too high a voltage will cause this. Normally, this is accompanied by higher use of water. How low were the cells and have the plates ever been exposed? If you have a smart charger or inverter/charger, have you programmed it (see your inverter charger manual). You don't say how old they are, but with wet cell batteries, it is easy to check them with a hydrometer (inexpensive and available at any auto parts house). Be sure the batteries are fully charged when you test them. "Best" will bring quite a lot of responses. To me best is Lifeline AGM batteries-- been using them for decades in our off shore sail boats as well as motorhome. They are expensive, but maintenance free, accept a charge faster than wet cell batteries (lower internal resistance) and do not out-gas under normal conditions. Brett

Ed, Tell us a little more about what you have as it will help determine how complex the job will be: Propane only? Propane plus motor aid or 120 VAC or all three?

Lyle, Thanks for the update-- certainly an inexpensive "fix".

Yup, check the fuse to the glow plugs AND the relay.

Trusting super glue to seal a crack in a 120 PSI air system has a good likelihood of leaving you on the side of the road. If you leave it that way, be sure to carry parts to temporarily block off that line if the gauge fails.

How old was the gasoline in the carb when you determined that it would turn over at normal speed (i.e. electrical issue solved), but that it won't stay running without supplemental fuel source? Wonder if the carb has varnish deposits? Be very careful running on starting fluid-- hard on the motor and be sure the coach main breaker is OFF, as it would be hard to believe the HZ's or voltage is correct with "supplemental" fuel.

Actually, at some Conventions there ARE dealers selling and installing tires at the event. I suspect it is quite early to try to predict who will/won't be at an event next summer.

We need to clarify-- is this a diesel or gasoline generator. Full model number really helps.

Add the Stabil before filling up. That way the fuel you add will help distribute the Stabil. Then, yes, drive at least 5 miles so it is distributed throughout the fuel system.