wolfe10

No, inert gas means a gas that it is "non-reactive: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inert_gas The molecules of any gas, including inert gasses all follow the ideal gas law-- PSI is related to temperature.

Again, without knowing the make and model of the appliances you have, we can't tell you whether you will have a pilot light or electronic ignition. Our coach is also a 1993, and all the appliances have electronic ignition-- none have pilot lights.

Linda22, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you turn on the furnace and the fan runs, go walk around the outside of the coach and you will very quickly discover the source of the "noise" as well as air flow. And, a 1993 model is very likely to NOT have a pilot light-- but you will need to open the outside access door and tell us the make and model for us to know. I suspect it has electronic ignition. Normal furnace sequence is: Thermostat signal to PC board. PC board starts the fan. If fan is moving enough air to close the "Sail Switch" the PC board turns on the propane and at the same time sparks the igniter. So, places to start troubleshooting: Verify that you have propane-- turn on a stove burner-- is the flame "normal size"? If the fan is running, but nothing past that happens, the next thing to check is why the sail switch may not be closing. Inadequate air flow to close the sail switch can be caused by an obstruction of the air return (inside coach), closed vents, crushed ducts, low voltage-- with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) verify that voltage AT THE FURNACE (outside panel) is at least 12.2 VDC. If lower than that, it is unlikely that the fan is turning fast enough to close the sail switch. Please let us know what you find and we will be glad to help. Brett

I saw one in a Travel Supreme mid-engine chassis/garage model coach at an FMCA Convention.

Henry, There is some validity to both their answers. Dual pane windows ARE prone to fogging, and at a higher rate than in home installations because of the likelihood that bouncing down the road adds to the chance of breaking a seal. If you camp in very cold or hot areas, the added expense and maintenance may well be worth it. Heat pumps are more efficient at providing heat in the 40 degrees F and up temperatures, particularly if you are not paying for power where you camp. So, if you often camp in 40+ degree F conditions and have electricity there, it may be a worthwhile option. If temperature is below about 40 degrees F, heat pumps loose efficiency and cease to function properly. And, of course, if you primarily camp in the summer, it is a moot point. The heat pump function does add a small degree more complexity to the A/C, as the valve that "reverses" the coolant can stick. Brett

Harkey, Indeed, your Freedom only serves as the charging unit, with this Intellitech controller serving as the combiner. From their written description, it has both an "under" voltage disconnect and and "over" voltage disconnect. So, first thing is to verify that output voltage from your Freedom inverter/charger IS in the proper range. If not, please go through the programming steps outlined in your Freedom manual. This was called "setting the dip switches" on older Freedom models. It is a good idea to do this twice a year anyway as ambient temperature is one of the things you are programming (assuming you don't have the upgraded battery temperature probe). If voltage is in the right range, and you are good with electrical diagnostics, you can check that the relays are closed when the should be and open when they should not be. A problem could be in a bad relay which would likely be separately replaceable or in the control board which may not be repairable. Brett

Please look closely at the "control and relays" that connect the coach batteries/inverter-charger to the chassis battery. If it has a brand an model on it-- please post.

Nothing that sophisticated. Just a ball peen hammer. Never relied on it to tell exact PSI, but it, along with placing my hand lightly on the sidewall to check temperature every time we stopped (ya, one of these days I will get an IR gauge-- don't want to jump into the new millennium too quickly) would tell me if something was enough wrong that I should check with a gauge. Already had fun watching the PressurePro monitor for tire PSI today while driving. Predicted a 2-3 PSI increase in the side exposed to the sun as we drove one way-- it happened. As sun went to the other side, sure enough the 2-3 PSI higher readings shifted to the other side. Professor Boyle would be so proud-- RV's DO follow the laws of physics! Brett

I decided to join this century and install a complete tire PSI monitoring system in our coach and toad. After a lot of research, decided on the PressurePro. I liked the quality of the components and being designed and built in the U.S. was a big plus. The reports from current owners were also very positive. Programming was very simple-- of course with expert directions from Dianne who sat in the driver's seat and told me in what order to install the sensors as they automatically program in that location and PSI. The whole process took 20 minutes for the 10 tires. Can't believe I waited this long. The peace of mind of knowing that all the tires are at their correct PSI is great. Now, what will I do with that tire bat??? No more tire thumping at each stop and checking with a gauge once a week. Sadly, Dianne already has a list that will occupy what I though would be a little spare time.

And, this from a long-time refrigeration expert who works with me on the FMCA Technical Advisory Committee: Things the owner should check starting with the basics. 1 - Is there 12 Volts AT THE REFRIG TERMINAL BLOCK? if yes, 2 - Is there 120 volts at the Duplex outlet? 3 - If Yes, is there 120 volts coming out of the control module to the heater? If No, bad module 4 - If yes and there is no heat on the boiler, Bad heater 5 - If the heater is getting hot and no cooling - 6 - Then switch to Gas operation - 7 - If still no cooling, bad cooling unit.

Jim, Facing the motorhome up a SLIGHT hill is OK. But, remember, the parking brake is on the REAR wheels. So, you never want to have to use the rear jacks to the point where the rear tires are close to leaving the ground. Using boards, large enough to support the whole "footprint" of the tire to get close to level is a really good idea. Brett

Yes, as Herman said, welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are two heat sources for an absorption refrigerator: 120 VAC and propane. They share a cooling system-- if the cooling systems leaks, neither will work. Evidence of a cooling system failure would be an ammonia smell and/or yellow powder which could be evidenced either inside the refrigerator or by looking at "all the tubing" in the refrigerator outside access door. They also share the same thermostat system and the PC board which makes "the decisions" on power source and when to run. So first thing to check is that you have 12 VDC to the PC board. Without that, neither heat source will work, as the PC board will not work. Next step-- begin troubleshooting the heat sources. 120 VAC: There is a fuse on the PC board (back of refrigerator-- accessed through the outside refrigerator door). If fuse is OK (AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC), check for 120 VAC at the leads for the heating element which is in the "stack" above the burner with the refrigerator turned on. It could be a failed heating element. You can also check the heating element with an ohm meter. Propane: Turn on propane at the tank. Light the stove to verify that any air has been bled from the system. Put the refrigerator control on propane. Listen carefully for a "clicking" noise of the igniter and then visually check for a small flame (outside refrigerator access door). If no flame visible/burner area does not get hot, start with the "burner area tune-up" as described in your refrigerator owners manual. No special tools and no parts are required. Note: An absorption refrigerator takes overnight to reach proper working temperatures. Cooling starts with the freezer, then the refrigerator. If you need more help, please tell us what you find works and doesn't work.

No, but I will forward this to my contact on the FMCA Staff. Brett

For the P chassis from suspension, you have basically two choices. One is to replace the complete front springs with heavier duty ones speced for your actual weight such as these: http://www.henderson...xle-weight.html The other is to replace the air bags themselves-- many do it yourselfers have done it, others take it to someone else for this work. The air bags are an integral part of the front suspension, and driving with them deflated CHANGES FRONT END ALIGNMENT. This will both wear out tires and could be a safety issue were you to have to perform a panic maneuver.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your best bet is to call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number. They can pull up information specific to your engine/engine display and give you that information. Their number toll free number is 877 777-3126.

My recommendation for researching any extended warranty is to do two things: 1. READ THE FINE PRINT. 2. Talk with the service manager of places you are likely to have service work done (or just a sampling of the larger RV, chassis and your engine manufacturer's dealerships in your area). Their recommendation on what companies pay promptly, don't look for loopholes to get out of paying each claim, etc. will be far more valuable than a small sample size of respondents here.

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here are some CG reviews for the Panama City area, including Racoon River CG. http://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/Florida/Panama_City_Beach.html#CGID8120

Paul, While cleaning from the back (you are cleaning the back of the radiator) is fine, the vast majority of the dirt will be deposited on the FRONT of the CAC, since the air is sucked in by the fan and forced back through the CAC and then the radiator. As you saw, it is no fun to access the front of the CAC-- you have to work INSIDE that fan shroud/around the fan blades. As I have posted before, use a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud and make sure that the lower PERIMETER is as clean as the center. Long before you experience overheating (i.e. radiator air flow insufficient), you will experience loss of HP and MPG, as the CAC is not able to cool the engine intake air sufficiently. And no, there is no way with a sandwiched cooling system (CAC in front of radiator) to clean adequately it from the back only. OK, that's the bad news. The good news is that you get to choose that outfit you got for Christmas that you REALLY don't like. Wear it to crawl in and clean the front of the CAC. And, with big apologies to the giver, it will be relegated to the "work clothes" pile.

Ken, Short answer is YES-- As long as you replace all tires on an axle with the same brand, size, model, load range, etc. Brett

What area of the country are you in???

Sage advice, EXCEPT when dry camping it is NOT economical to run a generator to power a converter, charger or inverter/charger until the batteries are 100% charged. Charge rate tapers off dramatically as they get charged so that as they pass from BULK to ABSORPTION phase, the amps into the batteries per hour of generator run time is unreasonable low. When dry camping, discharge to 50%, recharge to 85%, discharge to 85%.... Yes, once a week batteries need to be brought back to 100% charge. BTW, this is pretty much second nature to those of us whose introduction to "The 12 VDC Side Of Life" was life on a sailboat where you are "dry camping" (ya, strange term for being anchored out-- had to translate that into the "land cruising term"!) and having to run the primary engine (4 cylinder diesel in our boat) so that the alternator can charge the batteries. With diesel hard to find in the islands and $5+ per gallon, we minimized run time. Brett

Herman, Not sure about the master status, though I do admit I have achieved "master yard boy status" here at home?! However, that may be from lack of other applicants for the job. If the M&G fit on our toad, indeed it would have been on my short list as well.

Heman, Slight clarification. Many braking system including the Invibrake on ours from Roadmaster that apply the brake pedal also have a vacuum pump that "power" the brake vacuum booster. So it's single pump/compressor uses positive pressure to apply the brake (through a ram and cable) AND the vacuum side to "power" the brake vacuum booster. And on this system, if the coach running lights are on, it recharges the toad battery. We drove from the Madison WI FMCA Convention this summer straight through to south Texas and the toad battery was still just fine when we got home. As you and others have posted, there is no one ideal system-- the proof of that is some companies make more than one type of system. As an example, the M&G only fit a limited number of toads, as there has to be room to move the master cylinder forward to allow installation of the M&G device. So that was not a possibility on our Ford-- not enough room under the hood to move the master cylinder. My recommendation is to start by considering any system that will fit your toad and works well with your coach braking system and then rank the things that are important to you. Example, the Invisibrake we have is totally hidden-- nothing to put in or remove when going from driving the toad to towing it. But, if you change vehicles very often or tow two different tow vehicles, it would be a poor choice, as initial installation time is involved. But once installed, one wire to hook up coach to toad and the break-away cable. That's it. Yes, this involves research, but you CAN tailor your brake system to your toad, coach and your specific requirements.

ramblinboy, Those "idiot lights" are just that. To really tell voltage, you need to use a digital voltmeter at the batteries. If you don't have a digital voltmeter, get one-- they start at under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc.

wbrown, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please give us more details on what you mean by: "No matter what air pressure I put in them the seem to find a pressure of about 95 PSI cold." And, yes, it is absolutely normal and expected that tire PSI will increase as the tires heat up with driving. That is the reason that all tire manufacturers recommend checking tire pressure BEFORE driving.