wolfe10

Call Allison AND your chassis maker with your transmission serial number and chassis serial number to verify what fluid you have in your transmission now. If you have Dexron and want to convert to Transynd (which most of us have done) there are several methods-- different, but likely all mechanically acceptable. Allison's recommended method is to drain fluid, change filter(s) and fill with Transynd. Next service interval is the same as if it were 100% Dexron. At the second filter/fluid change, go to the Transynd change interval. Tom's suggestion of back to back fluid and one filter change will certainly work, but will be a lot higher in initial cost. As long as there is zero chance of dirt getting in the lines when disconnected, I see no reason that changing fluid and filter, then starting the engine with the return line from the transmission cooler off at the transmission until clean new fluid comes out would not work. Allison does not recommend this however (likely because of potential of dirt getting into the transmission. Brett

Bill, Are you starting the script for a new sit-com? Sounds like a winner. Brett

Judy and Jerry, Actually the cooling unit cools the freezer section first, then "remaining BTU's" remove heat from the refrigerator. So, when total cooling ability is limited (by anything or combination of things), it is the refrigerator that shows the first sign of failure/inability to maintain the proper temperature. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to consult Freightliner (Gaffney) since they designed and built the chassis: 800 385-4357 have your chassis VIN handy. But, if you have been in road conditions severe enough to snap a spring, an alignment might be a very good idea even if new springs do not change front suspension geometry.

Not a good idea. That would use a LOT of electricity (same as leaving a 1500 space heater on 24/7) for no gain. Turn in on an hour to several house before starting the engine (time depends on ambient temperature). Brett

A delightful story. We often overnight in Dumas when we drive from S Texas to Angel Fire, NM. What is the name of the hamburger joint there-- will have to put that on the list? Brett

My Caterpillar 3116 (the predecessor to the 3126) came with a Caterpillar block heater. It is located in the water jacket/side of block just below the turbo. The element went out, so I just replaced it. Note, this is one of the two locations for a block heater on the 3126, per Hotstart's website. Here is the process: I got a Hotstart FP101-001 http://www.hotstart.com/home/products/in-block-heaters/. It replaces the freeze plug/old block heater. They recommended Loctite 640 as a sealant. Took a little research to find the Loctite 640. Drain coolant. Mine was still in good shape (Caterpillar ELC), so I was careful to catch it and keep it clean. Replaced the coolant filter (zero unit SCA filter, as my coolant is ELC which does not use SCA). Remove old block heater. Dry that area of the block (paper towels) Clean block wall/opening with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper so the new block heater and Loctite would have a good clean mounting surface. With a socket as a driver, used a hammer to drive the new block heater into place (didn't require any heavy pounding-- just make sure it is square). Let Loctite set up overnight (set up time depends on ambient temperature-- complete information on their website: http://www.all-spec.com/downloads/loctite/64031_120209s.pdf Refill cooling system. On most cooling systems, you must "burp" the air from the engine thermostat housing. Some have a chassis manufacturer run line that does this automatically. On mine, I just loosen the coolant line from the thermostat housing to the air compressor until coolant starts coming out. Put on a Willie Nelson CD and sing along with... "Back On The Road Again". Brett

Herman, There are some additives that absorb water such as HEET, but am not aware of any that are approved by diesel manufactures. Alcohol and other water-absorbing chemicals are hard in the close tolerances in diesel injectors. If anyone finds one that has Caterpillar or Cummins approval, I would appreciate that info being posted.

The Atwood water heater owners manual should show the location of the 120 VAC electric heating element. Most are on the "inside" side of the water heater, the side opposite the outside wall. If this is it's location, access to that area will dictate whether you can replace the element with the water heater in place or have to remove it. Brett

Several points here. Water is heavier than diesel. So, look for a drain plug on your fuel tank (up to your chassis maker as to whether one is fit). As an alternative, if you can feed a hose in the in the fuel filler that reaches the bottom of the tank (I have used a hose with fishing weight zip tied to the end), use the coach levelers to tilt the coach front to back/side to side so that where your hose is in the tank is the LOW POINT. Let it sit for a couple of hours so the water all runs to that low point. Start a siphon and siphon until you get clear, golden diesel. Another alternative if in an area with marine interests is to have a "fuel polisher" polish the fuel. They feed a suction line into the bottom to the fuel tank and, with a high volume pump, pump it through large external filters and back into your tank. Yet another approach is to just carry several sets of spare filters and change them as they clog up, draining the water as required. If the level of water reaches the paper element, it is time to change the filter element. If your water issue is accompanied by an algae growth (black, slimy "gunk" in the filter) use a BIOCIDE from any marine store. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As he stated, the 1000 watt generator would make an excellent means of charging your batteries while dry camping. If that is the only reason for running a generator, this would be more efficient than running your large generator just to charge the batteries. If you have a larger inverter/charger with its high amp charger, you will probably need to reprogram it to limit its power consumption to under 1000 watts-- no big deal. You will have to weigh out whether the space taken with the additional generator and hassle of hooking it up and running it is worth it. Brett

Jim, When you have the axle weights, or better, individual wheel position weights, let us know what they are along with your axle GAWR (from the sticker near the driver's area in most coaches). Another real advantage of knowing actual weights is that you can accurately determine correct tire pressure. Improper inflation can also lead to wandering. Brett

Chuck, It is possible that the different alignment shops have different ideas of the "ideal" caster or toe on your chassis. Would be interesting to compare the before and after alignment printouts from the two shops-- let me know if you have them. Of course it is also possible that a big pothole, etc in those intervening miles cause an alignment issue. BTW, both shops have excellent reputations.

Koliver, As sensitive as the catalytic converter surfaces are (like being ruined by the use of any fuel with more than 15 parts per MILLION of Sulfur) I suspect injecting waste upstream of the converter would be a great way to spend a couple of thousand dollars replacing it. Would be interesting to get Cummins opinion on that one!

Ultratraveler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis manufacturer has your ride height specs. You will likely measure from some given point on the axle to some given point on the chassis. So, armed with those points and a ruler/tape you are good to go. Be sure to use safety stands if you have an air suspension. Brett

Chuck, A minor point. Installation of a Safe-T-Plus has no affect on alignment. So no need to check alignment. What it can do if not properly adjusted is cause the coach to pull to one side. Said another way, the devices "dead center" MUST align with the coach's from suspension in a "dead straight" position. Often, a minor adjustment is needed to bring the devices attachment to the proper position. I take a box wrench with me on a test drive, along with a piece of masking tape to mark where the bracket is. If the coach doesn't run dead straight, I stop and move the attachment point-- often less than 1/8". But again none of this affects caster, camber or toe. But, when installing new tires or rotating old ones, I temporarily remove the Safe-T-Plus so I know it is not "masking" a tire-caused pull to one side or the other. Reinstall it next time I stop. Brett

Dean, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two approaches. You can contact Monaco to see if they can send you a wiring diagram and/or talk you through switch and solenoid location. OR, you can grab a voltmeter and starting at the battery, follow the large positive wire to and through any switches, breakers or solenoids to see where you loose power. Brett

Not sure suggesting one ignore a "water in fuel" warning light is sage advice! Brett

Griff, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would suggest you do two things: 1. Weigh the individual wheel positions to determine if the right side is substantially heavier than the left/axles are above/below GAWR. 2. Go to a truck dealer specializing in your chassis, armed with the information from #1 above. Leveling a vehicle with spring suspension is not rocket science. Leafs can be added or removed (actual weights will help determine which), shims can be added, etc. Done all the time. Brett

Elgin, Thanks. Good to hear from someone knowledgeable in the business. What should one look for in a quality vinyl graphic?

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you contacted Fleetwood for the wiring diagram? Assume you have verified that the batteries are not discharged-- read 12+ VDC. And, first thing I would check is any wiring in the damaged area to look for cut or shorted wires. Then check all chassis 12 VDC fuses. Next, do any accessories such as dash HVAC fan operate with the key is in the on position? If not, check that the IGNITION SOLENOID (not starter solenoid) is working. Brett

Interesting concept. Questions: Size Weight Initial Cost Energy consumption-- the article mentions the most current model uses 1000 watts--for what period of time per gallon of waste? Reliability Makes sense for a boat where dumping holding tanks can be a real issue. Having spent last winter on a sailboat from Texas to the Bahamas and back, I know. But, in an RV, this would be in lieu of dumping at a CG, Flying J, etc and allowing effluent to be treated by the city water treatment facility or CG septic system. Not sure of its benefit in our application. When boon docking, where waste disposal could be an issue, the main engine is not operating to burn off the treated effluent. And even if high idle would achieve sufficient exhaust temperatures (which I seriously doubt), I can't fathom suggesting that one run a large gas/diesel engine just to dispose of waste. Said another way, as far as I can see, it would only benefit the very small number of people who boondock frequently AND who move frequently. As to how far they would have to drive to dispose of, say 50 gallons of gray and black water would be another issue even for this small group.

Mark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When looking at any older coach, two things I would suggest: 1. Look over service records-- be they loose receipts, in a book or on their computer. A well maintained 14 year old DP is barely broken in as far as the chassis is concerned. BUT, if it has been neglected-- well, no different than any other machine. 2. Pay for someone (or more than one person) skilled in chassis AND house systems to go over the coach-- preferably with you there. It is important for you to know now only what they find wrong, but for the two of you to be able to discuss recommended maintenance and be able to talk out what is within your skill level and what things you will need for others to do. I would also suggest that condition and maintenance through the years is more important than selling price. I would far rather see someone get a good coach at higher price than for them to think they were getting a bargain because of low price on one that has been neglected. BTW, our coach is a 1993, so a 1998 "ain't" that old! Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For a quick answer, go to the top right of this page and in the "search" box, type in "warranty" . You will find several discussions on this very topic. Once you look those over, please post any questions.

Gary, The vast majority of hose clamps/the whole cooling system is installed by your chassis maker. So, if it is Powerglide, indeed give Tiffin a heads up. If not, contact Freightliner, Spartan, etc. And, be happy they used an ELC. The OAT-based coolants are a lot less work (no checking and adding SCA as with regular diesel coolant) and more expensive than standard coolant-- kudos to them. I assume you added the pre-dilute coolant not concentrate???