wolfe10

Paul, Let's start dissecting some of these issues, as they will be applicable to many considering changing from absorption to residential refrigeration. Battery bank size and type: This largely depends on how long you want to be able to run without shore power or generator on (i.e. run the refrigerator off the battery bank through an inverter). In the equation, remember that for long battery life you do not want to discharge below 50% AND that while dry camping it is not "cost efficient" in terms of generator run time to get the batteries to full charge. For most, 440 amp hrs is a bare minimum, with more being desirable, particularly if you want to be able to run overnight without recharging. Yes, AGM's offer advantages over wet cell batteries. One of the more important is that their low internal resistance means they can be charged at a much higher rate (amps) for reduced generator run time. Other advantages including no maintenance and no out-gassing except under extreme overcharging. That does not mean I would recommend automatically replacing a perfectly good wet cell bank of adequate size in good condition. Not sure there is a compelling reason for dedicated vs larger "whole house" inverter and battery bank. I would go with a pure-sine inverter/charger for both better quality of power (vs modified sine wave) and quality 3-4 stage charger. A larger "whole house" inverter/high amp charger often offers faster battery recharging (higher amp charger built in), so I would look at that closely unless you have reason to go with a dedicated separate battery bank for the refrigerator. And since it is better in terms of battery life to have a larger battery bank that you discharge less deeply (vs smaller dedicated bank that is more deeply discharged to provide the same number of amp-hrs of power to the inverter and refrigerator), I would lean toward running the larger inverter/refrigerator from a larger single battery bank. Charging issues while traveling really boil down to what size alternator you have (expressed in amps) and whether you are expecting the alternator to recharge discharged batteries or just maintain them (i.e. start with them mostly recharged). Remember, most alternators, particularly in rear engine applications do not have very good cooling. And the more amps you ask from them the hotter they run. So it is not a good idea to count on the engine driven alternator to both charge a discharged large battery bank and maintain sufficient amps to run the residential refrigerator while driving. As a side note for those who DO push their alternators hard, it is a good idea to do a preventive overhaul on the alternator (bearings and brushes) at around 1500 engine hours/80,000 miles. Lots cheaper and more convenient than waiting for the alternator to seize up. Brett Wolfe

You are on the right track. Continue to use tape (even the blue easy to remove tape) to mask off possible entry locations. And, if you have access to shore water (hose) start low and SLOWLY work up until you see water intrusion. That way you are more likely to locate the source of the water leak. The actual point of entry can sometimes be a LONG way from where you see it coming out. Brett

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I assume these are the two you are considering-- that may help others to comment: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/...onditioner/6848 http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/...-softener/34619 Brett

Dash heater cores are not particularly unique. Most radiator shops can make/repair them. If you have the manufacturer's name who made the HVAC system and/or heater core, certainly contact them for information. And hopefully, another CC owner will be able to give you firsthand information. Brett

Depends on the door width, maneuvering room, etc. First call I would make is to your coach maker to see if they can tell you. Second choice would be to post complete information on your coach, floorplan, etc. Perhaps someone else with the same coach has already addressed that issue. On many newer coaches, the refrigerator has to come out by removing a window or even the windshield. "Bigger is Better" has its drawbacks! Brett

Tupelo, Norcold, Inc. Product Recalls – Call 1-800-767-9101. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Eastern Standard Time. Brett

John, Let me get the facts straight: Is the coach plugged in with converter or charger working? Are the house batteries staying charged (13.0+ VDC if charger on, 12.7 VDC if not plugged in? Does your chassis battery charge from your converter or charger-- many do NOT? And shore power and generator SHOULD charge the batteries exactly the same, since both "power" the converter or charger. If not, you will need to install a TrikLCharger, Xantrex Echo charger, etc or a separate charger for the chassis batteries. Brett

Thanks for the update. Can you tell us the manufacturer of the LED light and the part number if you have it. Or post a link to the LED you used. Brett

Actually, the time a proper license would be of use to you is in the event of an accident. You and your legal position will be materially weakened if it comes to light that you don't even have a license for the heavy vehicle you are operating. VERY different than wondering if you will be randomly stopped and checked for the proper license. Brett

Ray, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you contacted Spartan-- maker of your mid-engine chassis? Brett

Totally agree IF, repeat IF the problem is that the spring(s) are no longer able to maintain proper ride height per chassis manufacturer's specs. Sagging spring(s). excessive imbalance side to side, etc need to be addressed by replacing, re-arcing or adding leaf(s) to the offending spring. But, if the problem is that play side to side between axles and chassis because of the design of those LONG leaf springs, then a track bar, aka Panhard rod is the proper solution. Track bars are nothing magical or new-- I saw one in a museum on a carriage built in in the mid 1850's. It served exactly the same purpose as on a coach today. Brett

Gray Mountain, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you conform to the driver's license requirements for your coach in the state where you have your license, you are good in all other states. Said another way, all states recognize the driver's licenses of the other states. This applies to your driver's license, but NOT to your coach/vehicle/vehicle operation. Your coach and vehicle as well as its operation are subject to the laws of the state in which you are driving. Brett Wolfe

Toony, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. All electric coaches/coaches with electric refrigerators have an additional "layer of complexity" to their electrical systems that allow the refrigerator to run without the generator running full time: Large house battery bank-- minimum of 440 amp-hr and generally more. Large enough inverter that it can run the appliances at under 80% of inverter capacity. Most are true sine wave inverters which are more "appliance friendly" than modified sine wave. Many of these coaches have very high output alternators-- 190 amp or more to maintain battery charge while driving and using the inverter to power electrical appliances. Many have auto-generator start to automatically start the generator when house battery voltage a preset voltage. Brett

I would suggest you at least separate your service needs into "chassis" and "house systems". Going to an RV dealer for engine or transmission service is as unreasonable as going to an Allison dealer to work on your refrigerator. Brett

This recent thread here on the FMCA Forum might be of interest: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=408 Brett

Chris, Let's take a minute to see why there are three different recommended PSI's: Sticker in the coach is the GVWR sticker and will give the correct PSI IF THE AXLES ARE LOADED TO THEIR FULL GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). The sidewall of the tire will give the PSI needed to carry the maximum load the tire was designed to carry. And, as you did, using your actual weights to determine the minimum recommended PSI for your actual weights and adding a small safety cushion is the correct way to do it. Brett

Pour the chlorine bleach in the CG end of the hose-- that way the hose as well as coach water system. Fill tank with the bleach/water to the top. Let it sit an hour. Turn on each faucet (both hot and cold sides) until you smell chlorine at the faucet. Let it sit 2-3 hours. Drain and refill with fresh water. Remember, the hot water tank will take a while to get the concentration up to where you can smell the chlorine.

Bill, If this is the Ultra Trick-L-Start by LSL Products, you might contact them for troubleshooting advice: TOLL-FREE (877)-257-4655

Completely agree with Bill. For running charger and refrigerator, that HD 15 amp extension cord and proper adapters is a lot safer until you verify that the outlet is properly wired. 30 amp RV has one hot, one neutral and one ground. 50 amp RV has two hots (opposite legs of main breaker box so 240 VAC between the two hots), one neutral and one ground. Brett

Full, and I would add a Biocide since the fuel will be stored over 3 months. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...9&langId=-1 And I know Michelin recommends in writing to inflate the tires to the max PSI shown on the sidewall while in storage. Be sure to re-set to correct PSI when you "de-winterize". Brett

Short answer: It is not good for the engine. Long answer: Moisture in the crankcase is one of the major problems for stored engines. Moisture is one of the natural byproducts of combustion, particularly in a cold engine. If you can not run the engine UNDER LOAD/at highway speeds long enough to get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature, you are adding moisture to the the crankcase. Will your slides and jacks work with just the ignition turned on, but engine off? I would sure recommend that if it would work. Brett

As Don asked, what is the issue? If your TV is "pre-digital", you will need either a converter box or a new TV. If another issue, let us know what it is. Brett

If someone tells you categorically what tire pressure you should carry without knowing your wheel position/axle weights, in my opinion you have met either a clairvoyant (he can "divine" your coach's weights and weight distribution by looking at it) or an idiot (as he does not understand that PSI is WEIGHT DEPENDENT). While you will hear and read a variety of answers/opinions, the best source of information on your tires is your tire manufacturer. They did not go to the trouble to develop and publish inflation tables (load/PSI tables) if the correct answer is "one PSI fits all". Please go to this Inflation Table on Goodyear's website: http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rv_inflation.pdf On page 2 you will find your tires. The table gives the MINIMUM tire pressure for a given weight. Most recommend adding 5 PSI safety cushion to this minimum if you entered the table with the heavier wheel position weight on each axle. Add 10 PSI to the minimum if all you have is axle weights to account for some left/right weight imbalance. Do not exceed the pressure molded into the tire side wall or wheel maximum. Brett Wolfe

John, Is the water heater on propane or electric? Propane gives a LOT more BTU's of heating. Is the water heater still on/running when the hot water turns cold? Are all showers and faucets turned off at the faucet, not just the head-- check particularly if you have a wet bay shower head? Brett

First question: What CONTROLLER is your solar panel connected through? A controller functions the same as a voltage regulator does on an alternator. The controller, not the solar panel should determine the charging rate (just as a regulator controls charge rate for an alternator). And, with multiple charging sources functioning at the same time, the one set to the highest voltage/charge rate determines the maximum voltage/charge rate. Second question: On a clear day (solar panels charging max rate, what is the voltage at the batteries? Brett