wolfe10

Let us know what you find.

No question, if the IN diode from the alternator OR both OUT diodes god bad, they will destroy the alternator diodes. Alternators have to have their B+ terminal connected to something to survive. Many marine disconnect switches have a label saying not to turn off the battery switch before stopping the engine OR an "Alternator Field Disconnect" for this very reason (turning the battery switch to off without disconnecting the alternator would blow the alternator diodes). http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/150/medium_duty_battery_disconnect_switch/ http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/955/medium_duty_main_battery_disconnect_switch_with_afd/

thundr56, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, some smart chargers will not charge a completely dead battery. Find one of the older "stupid" ones to get you started. You could also start it by jumping it off to the coach house battery, but, I would have the coach battery charger or inverter charger breaker OFF so you don't take a chance on a voltage spike when connecting a totally dead battery.

To diagnose a 120 VAC issue like yours, start by turning off the main breaker in your 120 VAC breaker box. If the house CB still trips, the problem is in the shore power cord, wiring to ATS, ATS or wiring to breaker box. If the CB does not trip, start turning on breakers one at a time until you find the culprit.

Thanks. Look forward to your posting what Cummins tells you as well as max RPM you are seeing. And, whether Cummins thinks this will set a code. AND that is the code you have.

It is my understanding that the Bosch brake recall was for brakes with the Phenolic pistons. If brake fluid was not changed as it should be, the pistons absorbed water and failed to retract. I am not suggesting which ones to get-- might give a call to Bosch, tell them your application (include miles per year, how often you change brake fluid, whether you are in dry/humid areas) and get THEIR advice.

This is not pertinent to your primary issue, but a couple of points: To check the CAC/radiator for cleanliness, you HAVE TO LOOK FROM THE FRONT (from the bedroom/closed). The dirt will be on the front of the CAC. Look at the perimeter-- particularly lower perimeter-- the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter. There is no "average life" for fuel filters-- if all they see is clean fuel, they can go a long long time. But, one tank of contaminated fuel can clog them in a few miles. Does the engine speed when you use the engine brake exceed Cummins's "overspeed" max for your engine. Call Cummins with your engine serial number. Good numbers to ask are: Maximum torque RPM (you do not want to operate at heavy loads below this number. Max HP RPM (no reason to exceed this with the engine working) Governed RPM (max speed with the engine working) Overspeed RPM (max speed with no load (i.e. with engine brake on) Cummins 800 343-7357

We have driven it several times and quite enjoy the drive-- once in a 36 DP once in a 38 DP'.

Mel, Here is a good place to start your search: https://site.fmca.com/towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down/

Only had diesel pushers, no gas rigs. But career in the automotive industry, so pretty familiar with gas chassis as well.

Rich, ?? But, will the large gauge wire to the generator starter run through the salesman switch??

Yup, use of the exhaust brake switch AND the "down arrow" and in some cases the service brakes to slow you enough to drop to the next lower gear ARE part of learning to drive a heavy vehicle.

Tim, If starting the generator is "prime concern", pull your toad up next to it and use jumper cables. Hopefully, someone with more specific knowledge of your 12 VDC system will chime in for that part of the issue.

Lyle, If I understand correctly, the inverter went off just after a 100 mile drive. If so, the alternator should have brought the batteries to full charge. So, unless some part of the charging system is not functioning properly, you should not have had a low battery. But, your remote panel should showhouse battery voltage.

Chrisk22, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is an in-depth article on Liquid Spring in the June 2018 FMCA Magazine. Page 36.

An EXCELLENT IDEA!

Let me restate that: if the inverter/charger sees 120 VAC from shore power or generator, it both charges the batteries and "passes through" the 120 VAC to all thing wired downstream of the inverter 120 VAC. If no 120 VAC from shore power or generator, the inverter/charger, if turned ON will take battery power and "invert it" to provide 120 VAC for everything downstream of the inverter 120 VAC circuit.

REALLY hard to venture a guess without FACTS. But, would doubt that overheating would/could cause a fire. Fires in the engine room are usually caused by fuel leaks or hydraulic fluid leaks. While cleaning CAC's/radiators is a critical part of motorhome maintenance, particularly on rear radiator models, I doubt that neglecting this would do more than just overheat the engine/cause engine to de-rate.

Actually, a fall foliage cruise up the St Lawrence IS on our short list. Not sure we would get as far "uphill" as Lake Michigan and Chicago though.

Bill, Very familiar with fire suppression systems on boats. Fire when off-shore can be life threatening. The good news on a boat is that the engine room is a reasonably sealed compartment, so fire suppression systems work well. But in a motorhome, the whole underside and back/sides are open to the air, so displacing the Oxygen has limited value-- it is quickly replaced. And, since many fires start while the vehicle is still moving, keeping Oxygen from returning is virtually impossible. I would love to see some scientific studies on this.

sfox888, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While watching a video can be enlightening, there are a LOT of other things that need to be inspected/done to safely adjust air brakes. Be sure coach is blocked with the proper safety stands. Inspect for oil leaks. Check for heat checking in drums and shoes/disks/pads. Proper lubrication which varies widely depending on brakes. Said another way, this is not where a shade tree mechanic should start on a coach. Now, if you are a trained tech and just new to air brakes, very happy you are interested in learning to service your own chassis.

You can also locate the solenoid. Then mark the wire(s) on one large terminal. Remove them and ADD THEM to the wire(s) on the other large terminal. This is electrically the same as having the solenoid ON.

What function are you using that is not working as it should: 1. Inverting when no shore power or generator on-- using 12 VDC from battery to make 120 VAC. If so, verify that battery voltage is not dropping such that the unit should (and is) turning off. 2. Battery charging when shore power or generator on. 3. "Pass through" feature so that when the inverter/charger sees 120 VAC from shore power or generator, it passes it through to circuits downstream of the inverter charger.

Do the gauges stay on? Allison shift pad stay illuminated? If so, more likely an ignition solenoid or ignition switch issue than anything to do with the engine. The better you describe what is and is not happening the better we can help.

MerrittislandMike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This will get you started on the tire program (Michelin and Continental): https://site.fmca.com/fmca-tire-program