wolfe10

cuemein, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please clarify something for us-- is your induction stove wired 240 VAC (i.e. requires TWO hots) or is the problem excessive draw while on anything less than 50 amp electrical service?

On the Meritor axle, the tag with model and serial number is on the front middle of the I beam axle. Here is a breakdown (go to "Front non-drive steer axle): https://meritor.com/productsandservices/.../Product Identification Guide.pdf

If this is the Interstate 8D: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/8d-xhd Most 8D's it weights around between 120 and 160 pounds. I agree with Ross-- it sure feels like 380 pounds! Normal amp-hrs is around 230 @12 VDC That is comparable to a pair of 6 VDC golf cart batteries wired in series-- both in terms of weight and amp-hrs.

As most of you know, FMCA Staff is tied up with the Convention. They asked me to post this for them: So, as soon as details are worked out they will be posted. Brett From: Daniel Ball Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 10:46 AM To: Brett Wolfe Subject: RE: Hankook tire program The Board voted to add Hankook Tires as a 3rd option for members. Details and an agreement are still being finalized.

Peter, Do you have the info off the axle plate-- most front axles have a plate with manufacturer, series and serial number.

I know the front leaf spring suspension was in place. Sorry, don't remember if there were other upgrades to it. Liquid Spring could certainly tell you all the details about their demo coach.

Actually, a pretty complex question. Leaf spring coaches can be leveled by adding leafs to the low side or by adding shims to the low side. But, this will not materially change ride quality. When talking about ride quality, only you can determine how much to spend on improvements. Will Liquid Spring give you a better ride and handling than air bags-- absolutely. I have test driven a 2017 Ford F53 coach with it. I understand several manufacturers are now offering it as an upgrade option on new coaches.

That is NOT what Lois said!

Actually, a much more complex issue that one would expect. Variables: What is your current battery bank? Room for more/different arrangement? How often do you dry camp? What are your battery needs (amp-hrs per day) when dry camping (include use of your inverter)? Are you willing and able to check water level or is "maintenance free" an important feature? What converter, charger or inverter-charger do you have (having a huge battery bank with only a small charger is not a good match)? If dry camping much, do you have solar-- if so, how much? Smart controller? SO, the answer could be as simple as the least expensive pair of golf cart batteries from Sams/Cosco to a couple of Lifeline 8D AGM batteries.

If the engine is still to OE spec (not been hot-rodded) AND you select a gear where you can still (barely) accelerate, EGT's should not be a problem. Yes, WOT, particularly in hot summer temps can push the envelope.

Jerry, Yes, some generators are wired with the two hots "opposite each other" (will read 240 VAC between them). But, others are wired with the two hots "on the same side" (will read 0 VAC between them). If this is how it is wired, an open neutral will not result in high voltage. Give Onan a call with your model and serial number, they can tell you which way yours is wired. Onan 1-877-938-6762

Quite possibly. And, since it appears there is a dead short, VERY likely in this case. So, either find where the dead short is or remove the hot and neutrals for those circuits at the main breaker box (yes, assuming the OP is safe working around 120/240 VAC).

Jerry, Would appreciate your checking to make sure you do have 240 VAC between the hots. Many generators with two hots do not.

Very likely that the factory ran the wires, particularly if those were options-- much easier to run as part of the wiring loom than to have to run them later if the owner chose that option.

Not sure how an ATS could cause high voltage ??

Yes, that is WAY too high. What is your HZ-- wonder if that is too high as well.

Agree, that at your convenience you should trace down where you have that dead short on the dishwasher/washer-dryer circuit. As far as generator AC voltage, I would be less concerned about no-load voltage than voltage under load. What is voltage with one A/C on? Two A/C's on?

Let us know what you find.

No question, if the IN diode from the alternator OR both OUT diodes god bad, they will destroy the alternator diodes. Alternators have to have their B+ terminal connected to something to survive. Many marine disconnect switches have a label saying not to turn off the battery switch before stopping the engine OR an "Alternator Field Disconnect" for this very reason (turning the battery switch to off without disconnecting the alternator would blow the alternator diodes). http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/150/medium_duty_battery_disconnect_switch/ http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/955/medium_duty_main_battery_disconnect_switch_with_afd/

thundr56, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, some smart chargers will not charge a completely dead battery. Find one of the older "stupid" ones to get you started. You could also start it by jumping it off to the coach house battery, but, I would have the coach battery charger or inverter charger breaker OFF so you don't take a chance on a voltage spike when connecting a totally dead battery.

To diagnose a 120 VAC issue like yours, start by turning off the main breaker in your 120 VAC breaker box. If the house CB still trips, the problem is in the shore power cord, wiring to ATS, ATS or wiring to breaker box. If the CB does not trip, start turning on breakers one at a time until you find the culprit.

Thanks. Look forward to your posting what Cummins tells you as well as max RPM you are seeing. And, whether Cummins thinks this will set a code. AND that is the code you have.

It is my understanding that the Bosch brake recall was for brakes with the Phenolic pistons. If brake fluid was not changed as it should be, the pistons absorbed water and failed to retract. I am not suggesting which ones to get-- might give a call to Bosch, tell them your application (include miles per year, how often you change brake fluid, whether you are in dry/humid areas) and get THEIR advice.

This is not pertinent to your primary issue, but a couple of points: To check the CAC/radiator for cleanliness, you HAVE TO LOOK FROM THE FRONT (from the bedroom/closed). The dirt will be on the front of the CAC. Look at the perimeter-- particularly lower perimeter-- the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter. There is no "average life" for fuel filters-- if all they see is clean fuel, they can go a long long time. But, one tank of contaminated fuel can clog them in a few miles. Does the engine speed when you use the engine brake exceed Cummins's "overspeed" max for your engine. Call Cummins with your engine serial number. Good numbers to ask are: Maximum torque RPM (you do not want to operate at heavy loads below this number. Max HP RPM (no reason to exceed this with the engine working) Governed RPM (max speed with the engine working) Overspeed RPM (max speed with no load (i.e. with engine brake on) Cummins 800 343-7357

We have driven it several times and quite enjoy the drive-- once in a 36 DP once in a 38 DP'.