wolfe10

Let us know what readings you get.

sunclipper2000, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Replacing part of a battery bank at a time is NOT recommended. Let's say one of the old batteries has or develops a bad cell, that 6 VDC battery is now 4 VDC. With it's "in series" partner, that is 10 VDC battery instead of 12 VDC. The charger will see low voltage on the battery bank and try to bring it up. That will well over-charge the good/new batteries in an attempt to being even the bad one up to fully charged voltage, materially shortening the new battery's life. Options: Save your money until you can replace all of them. Separate and load test the old ones and wire up only the good ones (yes in pairs) until you can replace all. Remove all old batteries and just install one new pair now-- OK if you don't do much dry camping. Add others as soon as you can so all are pretty close to the same age/kind.

The voltmeter in the dash gauges shows chassis battery voltage (or should-- certainly it is a number of feet of wire and likely a number of electrical connections between batteries and dash). So, when you turn ignition on (don't try to start) it should read "low" at both chassis battery and dash, as it is powering the INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER and on some engines the electric fuel pump. Same for when you start the engine-- the starter takes a lot of amps which lowers battery voltage. Once started and above idle (that is why we suggested using cruise/switch to raise idle RPM to 1,100 or so, voltage should go up to the high 13's/low 14's. WHAT ARE THE READINGS AT THE CHASSIS BATTERIES IN EACH OF THESE CONDITIONS. WHAT DOES THE DASH GAUGE SHOW. But, low readings do not necessarily mean that the alternator is bad. Depending on how your coach is wired, it could mean a bad battery isolator or bad sense wire connection that would give exactly the same symptoms. This is why an electrical schematic is so important, as is verifying what kind of battery isolator you have (solenoid or diode-based isolator). Yes, if you do not have a digital voltmeter-- BUY ONE. They re under $20 and indispensable in diagnosing electric issues in a motorhome. Any box store, hardware store or auto parts house will have them.

On most coaches you can raise engine idle RPM with the cruise control or a separate switch.

Good point. DONE. The name was properly changed from "Extended Warranty" to "Extended Service Policies". Thanks to RAYIN and fpresto for pointing this out. Moderator

That is pretty close. Onan does publish consumption numbers for their generators. But, one does need to factor in their "percent of available power" to the published figures.

On Winnebagos, that type of damage generally starts at the roof seams that are supposed to be inspected and resealed frequently. Once a small section lifts, the rest follows very quickly as wind gets under the FG.

OK, someone is in TIME OUT! Remember, wife drives, I just hold the wheel. Now, I am in time out-- oh well.

Yes, in all coaches, the alternator charges/is connected to both battery banks. But, there is no "here is how they are all wired" when it comes to whether the converter, charger or inverter/charger charges not only the house bank but also the chassis battery bank.

Yes, charging from the alternator is unrelated to charging from the inverter/charger. You really need to find someone competent in diagnosing electrical systems. Visa via the charge with the engine running-- should be around 14 VDC. If not functioning, could be the alternator or could be the battery isolator (depending on what kind of isolator you have).

Yes, that is a P chassis.

Might have camber checked.

Kevin, To determine what chassis, look under the front of the coach: Solid front axle= Workhorse W chassis Independent front axle (looks like large Chevy PU front suspension)= Workhorse P chassis. Both use the 8.1 liter V8.

Yes, if non-directional, you can just swap side to side. Is this a solid front axle or IFS?

Either label each air line and wire or "service them" one at a time so all connections remain where they should.

If 2004, it will be the 8.1 liter.

YES. One on each bank is great. Be sure to check that they ARE charging-- again, many smart chargers will not start charging a totally dead battery. If that is the case, you may need to use a jumper from a good battery such as your tow vehicle to get voltage high enough for the charger to work. And, once voltage is up some, your inverter/charger MAY start.

Everything that is happening can be caused by deeply discharged batteries. Remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC-- not 8.43 volts. The inverter/charger is designed to NOT work when batteries very deeply discharged. And, depending on what generator you have, things like the generator fuel pump run on 12 VDC. PLEASE, get the batteries up to 12 VDC and then try everything. Yes, you can stay on shore power and use it to run a STAND ALONE BATTERY CHARGER!

Sounds like you are describing multiple issues-- with the batteries being at the center of the issues. With house battery voltage where it is, the inverter/charger is programmed to NOT charge them. Again, get a stand alone charger and let it bring them up enough that the inverter/charger might take over. If no shore power, you can run the stand alone charger on the generator. Then when both banks are at least 12.0, start the engine and see what the alternator does. I find it hard to believe that BOTH inverter/charger and alternator went out at the same time.

If, as you suspect the charger section of the inverter/charger is not working, that will sure lead to dead batteries. To save the batteries from an early death, use a stand alone charger to keep the batteries charged and/or drive to allow the alternator to charge them. In terms of diagnostics, if you have verified that 120 VAC is reaching the inverter/charger, that any internal fuse is OK and charger section is not working, your inverter/charger is due for replacement.

Bruce, I have done the same on PU transmissions with the same result-- actually ran the engine long enough to visually see the new/clean fluid coming out of the return line. Agree, that is a sound process and does not violate the "do not flush" edict.

No, you do not get all the old fluid out of the torque converter or transmission cooler for that matter. NO PROBLEM. According to Allison it takes two changes with Transynd before going to the extended service interval approved for Transynd. And Allison specifically recommends AGAINST flushing the transmission.

jenronn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you asked Workhorse (using your VIN) ? Yes, the transmission would have some with some oil in it, but suspect the chassis maker would have filled it.

Me too!

Correct-- routine maintenance. Allison can tell you the correct "change quantity with filter change". Least expensive Transynd is a 5 gallon pail, less per gallon than gallons. For the 3000 the gallon pail leaves you about one quart left over. I do not have figures for the 4000. The filter kit from Allison includes both filters, all needed gaskets and complete instructions. Other than a 3/8" ratchet and a couple of sockets all you need is an inch-lb torque wrench. Most owners will do at least as good a job as a shop, as they will do a better job of cleaning the bottom of the transmission before starting the procedure to keep all dirt out of the transmission. NOT a complex job. Any Allison dealer will have both Transynd and filters.