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wolfe10

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Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. wolfe10
    Yes, if non-directional, you can just swap side to side. Is this a solid front axle or IFS?
  2. wolfe10
    Either label each air line and wire or "service them" one at a time so all connections remain where they should.
  3. wolfe10
    If 2004, it will be the 8.1 liter.
  4. wolfe10
    YES. One on each bank is great. Be sure to check that they ARE charging-- again, many smart chargers will not start charging a totally dead battery. If that is the case, you may need to use a jumper from a good battery such as your tow vehicle to get voltage high enough for the charger to work. And, once voltage is up some, your inverter/charger MAY start.
  5. wolfe10
    Everything that is happening can be caused by deeply discharged batteries. Remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC-- not 8.43 volts. The inverter/charger is designed to NOT work when batteries very deeply discharged. And, depending on what generator you have, things like the generator fuel pump run on 12 VDC. PLEASE, get the batteries up to 12 VDC and then try everything. Yes, you can stay on shore power and use it to run a STAND ALONE BATTERY CHARGER!
  6. wolfe10
    Sounds like you are describing multiple issues-- with the batteries being at the center of the issues. With house battery voltage where it is, the inverter/charger is programmed to NOT charge them. Again, get a stand alone charger and let it bring them up enough that the inverter/charger might take over. If no shore power, you can run the stand alone charger on the generator. Then when both banks are at least 12.0, start the engine and see what the alternator does. I find it hard to believe that BOTH inverter/charger and alternator went out at the same time.
  7. wolfe10
    If, as you suspect the charger section of the inverter/charger is not working, that will sure lead to dead batteries. To save the batteries from an early death, use a stand alone charger to keep the batteries charged and/or drive to allow the alternator to charge them. In terms of diagnostics, if you have verified that 120 VAC is reaching the inverter/charger, that any internal fuse is OK and charger section is not working, your inverter/charger is due for replacement.
  8. wolfe10
    Bruce, I have done the same on PU transmissions with the same result-- actually ran the engine long enough to visually see the new/clean fluid coming out of the return line. Agree, that is a sound process and does not violate the "do not flush" edict.
  9. wolfe10
    No, you do not get all the old fluid out of the torque converter or transmission cooler for that matter. NO PROBLEM. According to Allison it takes two changes with Transynd before going to the extended service interval approved for Transynd. And Allison specifically recommends AGAINST flushing the transmission.
  10. wolfe10
    jenronn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you asked Workhorse (using your VIN) ? Yes, the transmission would have some with some oil in it, but suspect the chassis maker would have filled it.
  11. wolfe10
    Me too!
  12. wolfe10
    Correct-- routine maintenance. Allison can tell you the correct "change quantity with filter change". Least expensive Transynd is a 5 gallon pail, less per gallon than gallons. For the 3000 the gallon pail leaves you about one quart left over. I do not have figures for the 4000. The filter kit from Allison includes both filters, all needed gaskets and complete instructions. Other than a 3/8" ratchet and a couple of sockets all you need is an inch-lb torque wrench. Most owners will do at least as good a job as a shop, as they will do a better job of cleaning the bottom of the transmission before starting the procedure to keep all dirt out of the transmission. NOT a complex job. Any Allison dealer will have both Transynd and filters.
  13. wolfe10
    Partially that was a joke, but, yes have changed many fluid/filters in Allison transmissions. But, Transynd change and Allison filters should run more than $500. Have you checked with authorized Allison dealers?
  14. wolfe10
    Let me send you my address. That is about $500 profit!
  15. wolfe10
    redeye2, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is house battery voltage before and then during this activity? Are you on shore power?
  16. wolfe10
    NO, you are not looking at the radiator from the bedroom. As has been mentioned several times you are looking at the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). The radiator is behind (toward back of the coach) the CAC. You chassis maker (If Freightliner, call Gaffney) is the one who can absolutely tell you what the correct (minimum) process is for replacing the fan hub.
  17. wolfe10

    coolant loss

    wolfe10 replied to jimsfordgarage's topic in Engines

    Actually, pressurize the cooling system and look for the leak. A gallon per 100 miles is significant enough that you will find it.
  18. wolfe10
    Ya, and consider intake manifold temperatures! That is what the CAC is for-- to return very hot post-turbo intake air to close to ambient temperature.
  19. wolfe10
    OK, this is the picture of the "clean" CAC. Yes, when looking from above, the CENTER (yes, the clean area) was the only easily visible area. But, this picture tells the story. YES, it was overheating. Again, this is the front of the CAC (toward front of coach).
  20. wolfe10
    OK, I e-mailed my staff contact in the IT department at FMCA. Here is the answer: " I would post that it is a temporary thing we are doing while checking the system."
  21. wolfe10
    Mike, Sorry, not at home so no picture. But yours and the vast majority of other DP's have SANDWICHED cooling systems. Air enters the fan shroud, the fan pushes it into the CAC (first thing in the air flow-- it is what you see from the FRONT/bedroom or closet access when looking into the fan shroud. Easy to tell as the inlet and outlet are LARGE-- they only carry AIR. Behind the CAC (toward the rear of the coach and easily seen from the back, outside of the coach) is the RADIATOR. Indeed it is a pain to clean the front of the CAC. Best product is Simple Green EXTREME, as it was developed for degreasing aluminum aircraft and will not harm the aluminum CAC. Yes, you could use a small sprayer or just put some in a small spray bottle which will likely be easier to maneuver around the fan blades. That and a garden hose with garden nozzle and be sure to wear OLD CLOTHES and cover the area around the the opening so Cindy doesn't put you in time out.
  22. wolfe10
    Thanks, Mike. Pretty good presentation. I agree, I would have re-phrased this after verifying with Cummins/Onan: As presented: Synthetic oil – Okay on gasoline/LP Cummins Onan generators after initial break-in – Not approved on diesel product – Do not extend the published oil change intervals Verify with Cummins/Onan, but perhaps: Synthetic oil – Okay on gasoline/LP Cummins Onan generators after initial break-in – On diesel products only if the synthetic oil meets the API requirements (state the minimum API requirement-- perhaps CK-4 as of this date) – Do not extend the published oil change intervals
  23. wolfe10
    Safe mountain driving depends on TWO things: The rig. Assume you have an engine compression brake. The driver's expertise in mountain driving.
  24. wolfe10
    Often looking at the front of the CAC from the bedroom CAN be deceiving. What is easiest to see is the CENTER where the fan blades are less of an obstruction to your view. But, the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter. What you need to do is confirm that the lower perimeter is as clean as the center of the CAC. I have had people use a small camera to verify and the results can be shocking-- I still use one picture sent to me in my "Diesel Maintenance Presentations". A clear example of it is clean-- O, all I looked at was the center. Whole lower section completely blocked.
  25. wolfe10
    Just received an e-mail on this from a guy not on the FMCA Forum and thought I would post it: I had same problem,checked fuses,relays, and traced wires to no avail removed vim and ECU took to Allison for testing---ECU was bad $2400 later she lives-hope this might help someone else 2002 Freightliner XC 2003 Fleetwood Expedition 34W
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