wolfe10

If solid front axle, very doubtful that 1/2" of ride height would change tire wear. If IFS, a completely different matter.

STOP. Extremely unlikely that teflon tape has electrically isolated your sender. Easy to check. Use an Ohm meter between body of the sender and engine block. I will guarantee that it reads ZERO OHMS.

TOTALLY AGREE. hence the IF above. 240 VAC can be lethal.

If , actually IF, safe working around 240 VAC, check voltage at the ATS-- both on IN and OUT sides. There will be two hots-- usually red and black One neutral, white. One ground, green Correct readings: Either red or black to either white or green- 120 VAC Red to black 240 VAC White to green 0 VAC If that checks out, repeat at main breaker box-- same colors, same readings.

Sorry, I though you had already confirmed that the problem existed on BOTH generator and shore power. They are totally separate until the ATS. Both generator and shore power come IN to the ATS. One cable (4 wires) go from the ATS goes OUT to the main 120 VAC breaker box.

Good diagnostics (checking whether problem still happens on generator as well as shore power). If the same fault occurs on both shore power and generator, "first suspect" is a bad connection in the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). With generator, shore power and inverter OFF, remove the lid and check for clean, tight, non-burned connections. If no issues there, look at the main 120 VAC breaker box.

The battery temperature sensor is attached to the battery post and the other end to the inverter/charger. Usually with a "telephone-type connection". It has two functions: As ambient/battery temperature drops, charging voltage goes up. For those with no temperature sensor, most inverter/chargers allow the user to tell it "cold" vs "hot" ambient temperature. So, if only the manual/owner input, it needs to be changed at least seasonally. Related to the above: If battery temperature rises too much, it reduces voltage (and therefore charging amps) so as to not overheat the batteries.

Ya, with the very limited access to the engines on many motorhomes, not working on engines is understandable. But, the programming the computer???????

I agree-- absolutely take it to Caterpillar dealer for programming.

Carl, The rear engine gas was not a real good choice in any coach until the very few Workhorse UFO chassis that were produced. Most early gas pushers overheated badly and returned poor MPG.

SDeuker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The Equinox is one of the heavier toads. What are you towing it with/what coach do you have and what is its towing capacity.

No the battery temperature sensor should not cause a 120 VAC issue. It will just modify the inverter/charger's battery charging algorithms a little, particularly when batteries deeply discharged.

Could be improperly wired 120 VAC outlet. Test with a voltmeter IF you are safe working around 120 VAC: Long straight is neutral Short straight is hot Round is ground SO: Short straight to either long straight or to round= 120 VAC Long straight to round= 0 VAC

Let us know what readings you get.

sunclipper2000, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Replacing part of a battery bank at a time is NOT recommended. Let's say one of the old batteries has or develops a bad cell, that 6 VDC battery is now 4 VDC. With it's "in series" partner, that is 10 VDC battery instead of 12 VDC. The charger will see low voltage on the battery bank and try to bring it up. That will well over-charge the good/new batteries in an attempt to being even the bad one up to fully charged voltage, materially shortening the new battery's life. Options: Save your money until you can replace all of them. Separate and load test the old ones and wire up only the good ones (yes in pairs) until you can replace all. Remove all old batteries and just install one new pair now-- OK if you don't do much dry camping. Add others as soon as you can so all are pretty close to the same age/kind.

The voltmeter in the dash gauges shows chassis battery voltage (or should-- certainly it is a number of feet of wire and likely a number of electrical connections between batteries and dash). So, when you turn ignition on (don't try to start) it should read "low" at both chassis battery and dash, as it is powering the INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER and on some engines the electric fuel pump. Same for when you start the engine-- the starter takes a lot of amps which lowers battery voltage. Once started and above idle (that is why we suggested using cruise/switch to raise idle RPM to 1,100 or so, voltage should go up to the high 13's/low 14's. WHAT ARE THE READINGS AT THE CHASSIS BATTERIES IN EACH OF THESE CONDITIONS. WHAT DOES THE DASH GAUGE SHOW. But, low readings do not necessarily mean that the alternator is bad. Depending on how your coach is wired, it could mean a bad battery isolator or bad sense wire connection that would give exactly the same symptoms. This is why an electrical schematic is so important, as is verifying what kind of battery isolator you have (solenoid or diode-based isolator). Yes, if you do not have a digital voltmeter-- BUY ONE. They re under $20 and indispensable in diagnosing electric issues in a motorhome. Any box store, hardware store or auto parts house will have them.

On most coaches you can raise engine idle RPM with the cruise control or a separate switch.

That is pretty close. Onan does publish consumption numbers for their generators. But, one does need to factor in their "percent of available power" to the published figures.

On Winnebagos, that type of damage generally starts at the roof seams that are supposed to be inspected and resealed frequently. Once a small section lifts, the rest follows very quickly as wind gets under the FG.

OK, someone is in TIME OUT! Remember, wife drives, I just hold the wheel. Now, I am in time out-- oh well.

Yes, in all coaches, the alternator charges/is connected to both battery banks. But, there is no "here is how they are all wired" when it comes to whether the converter, charger or inverter/charger charges not only the house bank but also the chassis battery bank.

Yes, charging from the alternator is unrelated to charging from the inverter/charger. You really need to find someone competent in diagnosing electrical systems. Visa via the charge with the engine running-- should be around 14 VDC. If not functioning, could be the alternator or could be the battery isolator (depending on what kind of isolator you have).

Yes, that is a P chassis.

Might have camber checked.