wolfe10

Just received an e-mail on this from a guy not on the FMCA Forum and thought I would post it: I had same problem,checked fuses,relays, and traced wires to no avail removed vim and ECU took to Allison for testing---ECU was bad $2400 later she lives-hope this might help someone else 2002 Freightliner XC 2003 Fleetwood Expedition 34W

Agree, except it does this even on shore power where the inverter/charger should be "passing through" the 120 VAC.

Is it fed by an inverter-- in the past when it worked, could run run things on those outlets when not on shore power or generator? If so, check resettable breakers on the inverter/charger. As you can see, since we don't know exactly how your electrical system is layed out there is some guessing.

If you are safe working around 120 VAC: Disconnect from shore power, generator and inverter OFF. Pull out the GFI outlet far enough that you can check for power IN as well as OUT. Plug back into shore power and see if you have 120 VAC on the IN and OUT side. That will tell you if you need to look at connections/wiring from breaker box to GFI, bad GFI, etc.

NO

Turn OFF and back ON the outlet breakers in your 120 VAC breaker panel.

Ya, we found a small business with a fork lift. Paid him $25 to lift the new one and lower the old one. Lots of reasonable options here.

Let's start with the facts-- how hot is it getting? #5 would be where I would start. The VAST majority of the dirt and debris will be on the front of the CAC. If there is any oil residue, water alone will not clean it properly. Simple Green EXTREME was developed for degreasing aluminum airplanes, so is safe to use on aluminum CAC's. It must be cleaned from the front-- meaning the bedroom or closet. What ever offers access to the fan shroud. Yes, you could CAREFULLY cut a hole from below in the fan shroud that you would plug after the cleaning to access this area from below. And, absolutely verify that your clutched fan is operating as it should. It should be a low/high, not off/on and you will need to verify that indeed it does kick to high when operating temperature goes above thermostatically controlled temperature.

jzhinton, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like "tire cupping": https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/what-is-tire-cupping

With the cost of labor, if the compressor is bad, replace with a new unit. Call Dometic to determine which new unit replaces your old one and whether your current thermostat will function with that new unit.

F360376, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to an accumulator on the potable water system?

This from the 2016 F53 Owners Manual: The transmission code is on the Safety Compliance Certification Label. The following table shows the transmission code along with the transmission description. Description Code Six Speed Automatic Transmission (6R140) P

And, if there is any damage to the roof covering, not a big deal to buy a piece of aluminum large enough to cover the old and new location. Bed it is a good sealant designed for your roof material. Paint the aluminum sheet it white to match the room.

Be aware that that engine was used with a number of rear axle ratios and tire sizes, so there will be no "here is their RPM at a given speed for all applications".

rclmml, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Really depends on how your coach/toad wiring is currently done. You may already have the proper wiring, but if you are running your battery down, probably not. For charging, best to have 10 gauge wire from coach chassis battery to plug and then from toad plug to toad battery. IMPORTANT: fuse at each battery. If you want it to automatically disconnect when the coach engine is not running, use a 40 amp relay at the coach battery end with an "ignition hot" as the close relay trigger. Be sure your wiring also includes a good ground between the two vehicles.

We often buy fuel at Sam's Club-- yes, including diesel for the coach. They are high volume stations. And, a couple of times a year, they have a heck of a sale on passenger car/truck tires. We replaced tires on our car with $80 off a set and free installation and balance ($60 normally).

670 or 159???

Gregor23, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is quite common for the chassis to be a model year earlier than the coach. The chassis has to be built and then shipped to the coach builder where it may sit for a few months before having a coach built on it. The year (for registration, etc) is based on the COACH model year. Yes, for chassis items, use your chassis VIN/chassis year.

You will need to cap off the propane line-- either there at the back of the refrigerator or at some junction further "up-stream". Cleanest is at the manifold by the propane tank/regulator if that is how it is plumbed. On the 12 VDC, you can just use a butt connector on the positive and on the negative (positive being the more critical). That will isolate the copper from touching anything. If you have a separate fuse, you can pull that as well. But the butt connectors are the critical part. Would hate for someone to look at the fuse box and replace a missing fuse and cause a short.

ptwiskers1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As with all heavy vehicles, the speed on a grade depends on coach WEIGHT, HP and what RPM/throttle you are willing to use. Pretty hard to compare a 24' Class C with a 31' Class C, even if they have the same chassis/engine.

Very, very nice work. I am sure you verified clearances needed above the propane heater with the heater installation guide.

GABob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look on the GVWR sticker on the driver's door jam. OR look on the outer rear wheel-- it should be stamped there.

A burner area TUNE-UP consists of: Turn off the refrigerator and wait a few minutes for the burner area to cool off. Start by lightly rapping on the chimney to knock loose any dirt or rust that is about ready to fall. Remove and clean the burner tube. If slits are eroded/rusted, replace it. Remove and clean the gas jet-- use alcohol to clean it-- do not put anything hard through the orifice. Remove the ignitor/flame sensor and clean, removing any carbon or rust build up. Reinstall above, setting the spark gag (gap between ignitor and burner tube to spec). This can range from a very easy 5 minute job with just hand tools to an hour of contortionist work-- depends on how good your coach maker was in aligning the refrigerator outside access door with the burner area. I have worked on some that were VERY easy and some that were really frustratingly stupidly positioned.

That should be the Caterpillar C 7. Still a parent bore engine/no cylinder liners.

The Caterpillar C7, like the Cummins B engine is a parent bore engine/no cylinder liners, so harm from incorrect cooling eroding the cylinder liners is NOT a problem. Sure, you do need the correct coolant to protect the metal of the engine and cooling system, but that is more of a long-term issue.