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wolfe10

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Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. wolfe10
    Partially that was a joke, but, yes have changed many fluid/filters in Allison transmissions. But, Transynd change and Allison filters should run more than $500. Have you checked with authorized Allison dealers?
  2. wolfe10
    Let me send you my address. That is about $500 profit!
  3. wolfe10
    redeye2, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is house battery voltage before and then during this activity? Are you on shore power?
  4. wolfe10
    NO, you are not looking at the radiator from the bedroom. As has been mentioned several times you are looking at the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). The radiator is behind (toward back of the coach) the CAC. You chassis maker (If Freightliner, call Gaffney) is the one who can absolutely tell you what the correct (minimum) process is for replacing the fan hub.
  5. wolfe10

    coolant loss

    wolfe10 replied to jimsfordgarage's topic in Engines

    Actually, pressurize the cooling system and look for the leak. A gallon per 100 miles is significant enough that you will find it.
  6. wolfe10
    Ya, and consider intake manifold temperatures! That is what the CAC is for-- to return very hot post-turbo intake air to close to ambient temperature.
  7. wolfe10
    OK, this is the picture of the "clean" CAC. Yes, when looking from above, the CENTER (yes, the clean area) was the only easily visible area. But, this picture tells the story. YES, it was overheating. Again, this is the front of the CAC (toward front of coach).
  8. wolfe10
    OK, I e-mailed my staff contact in the IT department at FMCA. Here is the answer: " I would post that it is a temporary thing we are doing while checking the system."
  9. wolfe10
    Mike, Sorry, not at home so no picture. But yours and the vast majority of other DP's have SANDWICHED cooling systems. Air enters the fan shroud, the fan pushes it into the CAC (first thing in the air flow-- it is what you see from the FRONT/bedroom or closet access when looking into the fan shroud. Easy to tell as the inlet and outlet are LARGE-- they only carry AIR. Behind the CAC (toward the rear of the coach and easily seen from the back, outside of the coach) is the RADIATOR. Indeed it is a pain to clean the front of the CAC. Best product is Simple Green EXTREME, as it was developed for degreasing aluminum aircraft and will not harm the aluminum CAC. Yes, you could use a small sprayer or just put some in a small spray bottle which will likely be easier to maneuver around the fan blades. That and a garden hose with garden nozzle and be sure to wear OLD CLOTHES and cover the area around the the opening so Cindy doesn't put you in time out.
  10. wolfe10
    Thanks, Mike. Pretty good presentation. I agree, I would have re-phrased this after verifying with Cummins/Onan: As presented: Synthetic oil – Okay on gasoline/LP Cummins Onan generators after initial break-in – Not approved on diesel product – Do not extend the published oil change intervals Verify with Cummins/Onan, but perhaps: Synthetic oil – Okay on gasoline/LP Cummins Onan generators after initial break-in – On diesel products only if the synthetic oil meets the API requirements (state the minimum API requirement-- perhaps CK-4 as of this date) – Do not extend the published oil change intervals
  11. wolfe10
    Safe mountain driving depends on TWO things: The rig. Assume you have an engine compression brake. The driver's expertise in mountain driving.
  12. wolfe10
    Often looking at the front of the CAC from the bedroom CAN be deceiving. What is easiest to see is the CENTER where the fan blades are less of an obstruction to your view. But, the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter. What you need to do is confirm that the lower perimeter is as clean as the center of the CAC. I have had people use a small camera to verify and the results can be shocking-- I still use one picture sent to me in my "Diesel Maintenance Presentations". A clear example of it is clean-- O, all I looked at was the center. Whole lower section completely blocked.
  13. wolfe10
    Just received an e-mail on this from a guy not on the FMCA Forum and thought I would post it: I had same problem,checked fuses,relays, and traced wires to no avail removed vim and ECU took to Allison for testing---ECU was bad $2400 later she lives-hope this might help someone else 2002 Freightliner XC 2003 Fleetwood Expedition 34W
  14. wolfe10
    Agree, except it does this even on shore power where the inverter/charger should be "passing through" the 120 VAC.
  15. wolfe10
    Is it fed by an inverter-- in the past when it worked, could run run things on those outlets when not on shore power or generator? If so, check resettable breakers on the inverter/charger. As you can see, since we don't know exactly how your electrical system is layed out there is some guessing.
  16. wolfe10
    If you are safe working around 120 VAC: Disconnect from shore power, generator and inverter OFF. Pull out the GFI outlet far enough that you can check for power IN as well as OUT. Plug back into shore power and see if you have 120 VAC on the IN and OUT side. That will tell you if you need to look at connections/wiring from breaker box to GFI, bad GFI, etc.
  17. wolfe10
    NO
  18. wolfe10
    Turn OFF and back ON the outlet breakers in your 120 VAC breaker panel.
  19. wolfe10
    Ya, we found a small business with a fork lift. Paid him $25 to lift the new one and lower the old one. Lots of reasonable options here.
  20. wolfe10
    Let's start with the facts-- how hot is it getting? #5 would be where I would start. The VAST majority of the dirt and debris will be on the front of the CAC. If there is any oil residue, water alone will not clean it properly. Simple Green EXTREME was developed for degreasing aluminum airplanes, so is safe to use on aluminum CAC's. It must be cleaned from the front-- meaning the bedroom or closet. What ever offers access to the fan shroud. Yes, you could CAREFULLY cut a hole from below in the fan shroud that you would plug after the cleaning to access this area from below. And, absolutely verify that your clutched fan is operating as it should. It should be a low/high, not off/on and you will need to verify that indeed it does kick to high when operating temperature goes above thermostatically controlled temperature.
  21. wolfe10
    jzhinton, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like "tire cupping": https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/what-is-tire-cupping
  22. wolfe10
    With the cost of labor, if the compressor is bad, replace with a new unit. Call Dometic to determine which new unit replaces your old one and whether your current thermostat will function with that new unit.
  23. wolfe10
    F360376, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to an accumulator on the potable water system?
  24. wolfe10
    This from the 2016 F53 Owners Manual: The transmission code is on the Safety Compliance Certification Label. The following table shows the transmission code along with the transmission description. Description Code Six Speed Automatic Transmission (6R140) P
  25. wolfe10
    And, if there is any damage to the roof covering, not a big deal to buy a piece of aluminum large enough to cover the old and new location. Bed it is a good sealant designed for your roof material. Paint the aluminum sheet it white to match the room.
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