wolfe10

WAIT-- the roof A/C is 12 amps AT 120 VAC. VERY, VERY different than 12 amps at 12 VDC. But, totally agree, we need clarification from the OP.

I ASSUME he means his INVERTER/CHARGER panel reads 12 amp draw with inverter turned on. If I have misinterpreted, please let us know exactly what is happening. What is draw with inverter turned OFF? And, inverters take some power even if nothing is running-- called standby-mode. So when storing, the inverter should ALWAYS BE OFF. The salesman switch by the door does not control power to the inverter/charger. The inverter/charger is wired directly to the battery bank with large-gauge cables and likely a very high amp slow-burn fuse.

Hopefully, someone else who got the kit will see this and give post some first hand information.

No first hand experience, but my understanding is that these are individually machined. No idea if there is a commercially available replacement. If there is, no one to date (several years) has mentioned one.

I would recommend by downloading the installation instructions from Blue OX and Roadmaster for your Focus to see which you prefer (strength, ease of installation, ease of setting up to tow, etc). Both are good companies.

Carl, How did you like you Blue Bird FC35'?

The ATS is generally close to there the shore power cord comes into the coach. No guarantee, but a good place to start, as the shore power cord WILL connect to it!

Yes, that is a vacuum pump that "powers" your dash HVAC system. Should be a PN on it. Probably a close relative to the very common one used on Ford diesel trucks. May be this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Mechanical-Vacuum-Truck/dp/B001KQF6PC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957

Yup, more than one valve being discussed in this thread. That is why I pointed it out.

Likely talking about two different valves here. The check/anti-siphon valve where you connect the shore water hose CAN leak. But, it will leak into the wet bay, not into the potable water tank. The other valve is the selector valve (lots of different locations in different coaches) that allows you to fill or cut off water to the potable water tank. If it fails to close completely, it CAN allow shore water to fill the potable tank and/or allow pump pressure to "recirculate".

Would be hard to imagine an RV park where you couldn't find someone to come over with a voltmeter for 10 minutes. You said "86 volts on one leg". 30 amp only has ONE leg. So, if you ran much on that kind of voltage, you most certainly could have done damage.

What troubleshooting have you done? If the ATS is hard to get to, start at the shore power cord and check for power with a voltmeter (if you don't have one, you can find them at any auto parts house or box store for under $20). Same for the main 120 VAC breaker panel. If you have power where the shore power cord comes into the coach and those connections look good, but not at the main breaker panel, that pretty much leaves the ATS as the likely suspect. Yes, a loose wire or connection would give the same symptoms. Again, all this ASSUMES YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC.

If two pumps show the same symptoms, probability is that there is another cause. And, yes, the selector valve/tank fill valve may not be shutting off completely and/or could have chunk of mineral caught in it. You loose nothing by repeatedly opening and closing the valve to see if it can re-seal.

Richard, Many smart chargers and inverter chargers have just such a safeguard-- they are programmed to NOT charge if battery voltage is low enough that it could indicate a dead battery or dead cell in a battery. That is done purposefully to prevent fires! This from the Xantrex manual: Starter battery is not charging (would also apply to your generator battery, as it is the "start battery" in this description). Check the difference in voltage between the house battery and the starter battery. If the difference is greater than 2 volts, the Digital echo-charge will reduce the charge current. If the difference is greater than 10 volts, the Digital echo-charge will shut off and the green LED will blink . 2. Check the connections to house battery bank and starter battery. Check the fuses. Check the ground connection. You can also check the LED light codes on the Echo charger to see if it indicates a problem.

I would start be contacting the large propane suppliers there in Rawlins. They can certainly tell you who works on propane tanks. What is wrong/needs working on? That will also enter into who could do the work.

Open the lid to the ATS (if you are not safe working around 240 VAC HIRE IT OUT TO SOMEONE WHO IS). Check voltage IN and OUT of the ATS. That will tell you whether the problem is there, between CG and the ATS or ATS through main 120 VAC breaker box to the inverter/charger. BTW, if this is a MSW inverter, most voltmeters will read artificially low, as they are designed to work on pure sine wave.

I would ONLY recommend that if you use a diode with zero voltage drop (hard to find and expensive). You will already have some voltage drop over the wire length and multiple connections. If concerned about the toad battery trying to support the coach battery when engine not running, I would strongly recommend using a RELAY. Use an "ignition hot" source to close the relay. That way the only time the batteries are connected is with the coach ignition on/engine running.

Good question. Big difference is that the over-pressure valve is virtually permanent--- may have to be replaced ONCE in the life of the water heater, where the drain plug is removed at least once a year. So thread integrity is much more critical for the drain plug.

Good answer. And flush the minerals out at the same time!

NO. With an aluminum tank which the Atwood water heater has, I would spend the big bucks (under $2) and buy an Atwood plug. Metal plugs will have galvanic corrosion.

I reached out to a friend in the RV suspension business. He did not know of any "bushings only", but suggested you contact: Supersteer maybe John could help him.

I don't know of any tie rod ends that are fit such that there is a through bolt. But, it is possible that a suspension shop could find bushings to fit.

The track bar (aka Panhard rod) locates the axle to chassis in a side to side dimension. It allows for full up/down movement but restricts side to side movement between the two. Said another way, an air bag without it would allow the coach to shift left/right vs the axlewith every bump and turn.

Only real issue is "have the water tank threads been damaged. If an Atwood nylon drain plug (i.e. under $2 each) seal the drain, you are OK. If it does not seal, next step would be to buy and use a tap to clean the threads. If that doesn't work, then, yes you may have to replace the tank. But, I would suspect the likelihood of needing to do this at under 5%.

With proper safety stands in place, you can use a voltmeter to check: Have someone turn the key (as if to start) while you monitor voltage to that terminal on the starter. That will tell you if the proper 12 VDC positive is reaching it. You can do the same thing from the ignition switch end-- see if the switch is sending the proper 12 VDC signal when the key is turned to the start position.