wolfe10

Yup, an engine compression brake is entirely different than an exhaust brake. And, most engine compression brakes do come with a low/3 cylinders doing it and high/all 6 cylinders doing it. They are also known as Jake brakes. Exhaust brakes are found on smaller diesels. Engine compression brakes are found on larger diesels-- starting with the Cummins ISL 8.9 liter which was offered either with exhaust or engine compression brake..

Correct. The Allison will be programmed with the "pre-select" gear TOWARD WHICH the transmission shifts. 2nd and 4th are popular choices, but an Allison dealer can program it to whatever you want. As desertdeals69 said, that does NOT mean that is the gear you are in-- any more than it showing "6" when at a stop light means you are in 6th. You have to slow down enough that it will not overspeed the engine for it to drop to the next lower gear.

neoflyer, We are here to help. Let us know your questions as you narrow down your choices and we can help.

Use the "down arrow" along with the pac brake to maintain your speed. If you are speeding up, use the brakes firmly enough to allow you to down arrow to the next lower gear. Your equilibrium speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler, slower than an empty one-- straight physics.

Look at total weight of HD and the lift. Since it will be way behind the rear axle, it will put approximately 1.4 times that weight on the rear axle (and remove the .4 from the front axle). So, before going further, weight the axles and compare with your GAWR.

If the intake manifold heater is not functioning, starting in cooler temperatures will be slower (i.e. engine will turn over longer before firing). But, pretty easy to check it: Disconnect wires to the heater and check across the terminals with an ohm meter. Then reconnect and have someone start the engine when it is cold. Use your voltmeter to verify that you are getting 12 VDC to the heater grid.

Contact the IT department at FMCA on Monday.

Yes, if the batteries are 12 VDC: Positive of battery #1 to positive of battery #2. And positive cable to starter, etc from positive of battery #1. Negative of battery #2 to negative of battery #2. And chassis ground cable to negative of battery #2. And, agree with Herman-- I would sure clean up that mess of wires. Appropriately sized (for large-gauge wires) terminal strips are not that expensive. Would also make battery replacement and servicing a LOT easier in the future (and a lot less likely to put a wire on the wrong terminal). Another advantage is that the wires that you move away from the batteries will be a lot less likely to corrode. Lots of choices to clean that up: https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=terminal+block

Paul, Check out this guy's posts-- let us know what you find: https://community.fmca.com/profile/26671-backhoej/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjExNDAsImlkXzIiOjI3NTkzfQ==

As Ross said, MOST inverters (or inverter/chargers) have a built-in ATS. So when they see 120 VAC from shore power or generator, they merely "pass it through". Post what inverter or inverter/charger you have and we can confirm that is how YOURS works.

Perhaps different ways to do this, but with the same reel, I used a rag to wipe off water/dirt and "fed" it into the hatch. So, no strain on the reel mechanism and no dirt accumulating on the reel.

They might, but most of us can read the last FOUR DIGITS of the full DOT number that indicate the WEEK and YEAR of production. Would be surprised if the tire store has any "skin in the game".

Glennr, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you contacted Workhorse? http://workhorseservice.com/ OR contact them at: info@workhorseservice.com

Not suggesting it couldn't be done. BUT, were it mine here is what I would do before spending $$ on "may work" solutions that would put additional strain on the coach's 12 VDC electrical system: Build a "duct" that could be temporarily fit to the roof air to direct air forward while slide in/driving. If that did not give enough air flow, use a small fan on the floor blowing the cool air forward. Use together if needed.

Wayne, So, you are suggesting that the portable A/C is a reasonable option if he ducts the exhaust outside? Kind of thinking out loud here: Wonder how many CFM of outside (hot and humid) air would have to enter the coach to allow for that amount of exhaust? Wonder if that would cause enough negative pressure in the coach to draw in fumes from gray/black tanks?

20monaco, Is this an HWH air leveling system? If so, have you checked for leaks at the "6 packs". With proper safety stands in place and a spray bottle of soap solution, you should be able to identify that size leak pretty easily.

I agree, not practical from load on alternator/coach electrical system OR additional heat to interior. I would look at making a diverter to move roof air forward and use the generator to power it.

Chezrider, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have. What chassis/alternator you have-- that will determine if the engine-driven alternator can keep up with the electrical draw? What inverter or inverter charger do you have-- is it MSW or PSW? I know that is a lot of questions, but without the FACTS, all we can do is speculate.

Richard, Example: The Allison ECU has TWO 12VDC hots-- one for memory, the other only hot with ignition on. The memory one is so you retain all your settings and so you can instantly start the coach. Not sure I would characterize installing a high amp disconnect switch as "bad", finding an alternate method of keeping the chassis battery charged would be considered "best practices". And the two types of charging (combiners and small smart chargers) have been around for a long time and are not expensive. If no shore power where you store, then a small solar panel is another option. And, remember, even if disconnected, batteries do self-discharge.

With modern computer controlled engines/transmissions, actually better to leave the chassis battery ON and use an auxiliary charger.

Actually the boost/combine/auxiliary switch is not designed for constant use to charge the chassis battery. Better to use one of the smart combiners such as Xantrex Echo Charger or a smart, low amp smart charger dedicated to the chassis battery alone.

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I am absolutely in the "diagnose the problem" and THEN make a decision on repair vs replacement. Can't see replacing a roof A/C when a $20 capacitor might fix it.

Nan, Couple of other thoughts: Would like to see you run it on shore power or generator long enough to verify that the cooling unit is indeed functioning correctly (40 degrees or lower achieved in the refrigerator section). When you do the burner area tune-up, remove the gas jet. Soak in alcohol and blow it out. Even a tiny spec of dirt can restrict gas flow.

I believe (Nan can confirm) that performance on the built-in tank is still sub-standard (i.e. refrigerator temperature is still too high).