wolfe10

Paul, Check out this guy's posts-- let us know what you find: https://community.fmca.com/profile/26671-backhoej/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjExNDAsImlkXzIiOjI3NTkzfQ==

As Ross said, MOST inverters (or inverter/chargers) have a built-in ATS. So when they see 120 VAC from shore power or generator, they merely "pass it through". Post what inverter or inverter/charger you have and we can confirm that is how YOURS works.

Perhaps different ways to do this, but with the same reel, I used a rag to wipe off water/dirt and "fed" it into the hatch. So, no strain on the reel mechanism and no dirt accumulating on the reel.

They might, but most of us can read the last FOUR DIGITS of the full DOT number that indicate the WEEK and YEAR of production. Would be surprised if the tire store has any "skin in the game".

Glennr, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you contacted Workhorse? http://workhorseservice.com/ OR contact them at: info@workhorseservice.com

Not suggesting it couldn't be done. BUT, were it mine here is what I would do before spending $$ on "may work" solutions that would put additional strain on the coach's 12 VDC electrical system: Build a "duct" that could be temporarily fit to the roof air to direct air forward while slide in/driving. If that did not give enough air flow, use a small fan on the floor blowing the cool air forward. Use together if needed.

Wayne, So, you are suggesting that the portable A/C is a reasonable option if he ducts the exhaust outside? Kind of thinking out loud here: Wonder how many CFM of outside (hot and humid) air would have to enter the coach to allow for that amount of exhaust? Wonder if that would cause enough negative pressure in the coach to draw in fumes from gray/black tanks?

20monaco, Is this an HWH air leveling system? If so, have you checked for leaks at the "6 packs". With proper safety stands in place and a spray bottle of soap solution, you should be able to identify that size leak pretty easily.

I agree, not practical from load on alternator/coach electrical system OR additional heat to interior. I would look at making a diverter to move roof air forward and use the generator to power it.

Chezrider, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have. What chassis/alternator you have-- that will determine if the engine-driven alternator can keep up with the electrical draw? What inverter or inverter charger do you have-- is it MSW or PSW? I know that is a lot of questions, but without the FACTS, all we can do is speculate.

Richard, Example: The Allison ECU has TWO 12VDC hots-- one for memory, the other only hot with ignition on. The memory one is so you retain all your settings and so you can instantly start the coach. Not sure I would characterize installing a high amp disconnect switch as "bad", finding an alternate method of keeping the chassis battery charged would be considered "best practices". And the two types of charging (combiners and small smart chargers) have been around for a long time and are not expensive. If no shore power where you store, then a small solar panel is another option. And, remember, even if disconnected, batteries do self-discharge.

With modern computer controlled engines/transmissions, actually better to leave the chassis battery ON and use an auxiliary charger.

Actually the boost/combine/auxiliary switch is not designed for constant use to charge the chassis battery. Better to use one of the smart combiners such as Xantrex Echo Charger or a smart, low amp smart charger dedicated to the chassis battery alone.

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I am absolutely in the "diagnose the problem" and THEN make a decision on repair vs replacement. Can't see replacing a roof A/C when a $20 capacitor might fix it.

Nan, Couple of other thoughts: Would like to see you run it on shore power or generator long enough to verify that the cooling unit is indeed functioning correctly (40 degrees or lower achieved in the refrigerator section). When you do the burner area tune-up, remove the gas jet. Soak in alcohol and blow it out. Even a tiny spec of dirt can restrict gas flow.

I believe (Nan can confirm) that performance on the built-in tank is still sub-standard (i.e. refrigerator temperature is still too high).

Wrecked 2012 Sprinter: https://houston.craigslist.org/rvs/d/2012-mercedes-benz-sprinter/6615105478.html FYI, I know nothing about it, but a friend on the Forum called me about it. Anyone need parts???

This is not the problem. She has it plumbed correctly. Either tank is supplying only Vapor (high pressure). The regulator orientation is for regulator orientation ONLY-- it has nothing to do with tank orientation. Yes, the tanks must be orientated/plumbed so that they supply vapor, not liquid. The vent (small screen area) MUST face down. Again, should be zero difference if propane pressure unless a flow restrictor is limiting flow (valve opened too fast). Same as on a BBQ grill propane tank.

Nan, I hate to "diagnose by throwing parts at it", but cost of a new regulator is probably about the same as testing. And, at 11 years old, probably a good preventive maintenance move. Agree, this may not be the problem with the refrigerator, but eliminates one of the causes of poor performance on propane (low gas pressure means small flame means poor cooling).

Here is what you have: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/lp-gas-parts-1/regulators/integral-two-stage/propane-regulator-rv_66-8711

Nan, Most every RV place can check propane pressure in a matter of a few minutes. If that is not practical (don't know where you are), it may be more practical to just replace the regulator-- around $25. If you do replace it, verify that the regulator is designed for HORIZONTAL INSTALLATION. The vent (screened part) needs to be perpendicular to the long axis of the regulator. Said another way, you do not want a regulator designed for vertical installation. Price is the same, but they are NOT interchangeable.

Brian, A good idea to get a drop hitch so the tow bar is closer to horizontal. Remember, in hard braking, the front end of the coach does down, the back UP. You don't want the Mini to run "under the coach" were you to have to do a panic stop.

Nan, The propane regulator is under the gray/silver plastic cover on the right of the top picture. So, line pressure to appliances should be the same on coach tank or outside tank-- above you mentioned that flame was higher on coach tank?? Not sure that makes sense unless the auxiliary tank is empty OR you opened the valve on that tank too quickly and it is not allowing full gas flow. Try turning the valve on the auxiliary tank off and back on SLOWLY with all propane appliances OFF. Please confirm from my first post above: " You say you cleaned the burner tube-- did you remove it to clean or just blow it out? Were the vertical slits still in good shape or rusty? "

To follow up on John's excellent post, tell us how far into the "run on propane you get". Removing the outside access door for the refrigerator gives you best information. If possible, remove the little sheet metal shield over the burner area (bottom of the "chimney") When refrigerator turned on (to propane or automatic if no 120 VAC) AND temperature in the refrigerator is high enough that the thermistor signals for cooling to start) two things happen: you will hear the "clicking" of the ignitor and if you put your hand on the gas valve, you will feel it "click open" allowing propane to the burner. If this happens, did the flame light. If so, how long did it stay light? Was it nice and blue. For the flame to continue (gas valve stay open) the flame sensor must sense flame. Be aware that all these decisions are made by the PC board which runs on 12 VDC. Low battery voltage can make this process STUPID.