wolfe10

Wrecked 2012 Sprinter: https://houston.craigslist.org/rvs/d/2012-mercedes-benz-sprinter/6615105478.html FYI, I know nothing about it, but a friend on the Forum called me about it. Anyone need parts???

This is not the problem. She has it plumbed correctly. Either tank is supplying only Vapor (high pressure). The regulator orientation is for regulator orientation ONLY-- it has nothing to do with tank orientation. Yes, the tanks must be orientated/plumbed so that they supply vapor, not liquid. The vent (small screen area) MUST face down. Again, should be zero difference if propane pressure unless a flow restrictor is limiting flow (valve opened too fast). Same as on a BBQ grill propane tank.

Nan, I hate to "diagnose by throwing parts at it", but cost of a new regulator is probably about the same as testing. And, at 11 years old, probably a good preventive maintenance move. Agree, this may not be the problem with the refrigerator, but eliminates one of the causes of poor performance on propane (low gas pressure means small flame means poor cooling).

Here is what you have: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/lp-gas-parts-1/regulators/integral-two-stage/propane-regulator-rv_66-8711

Nan, Most every RV place can check propane pressure in a matter of a few minutes. If that is not practical (don't know where you are), it may be more practical to just replace the regulator-- around $25. If you do replace it, verify that the regulator is designed for HORIZONTAL INSTALLATION. The vent (screened part) needs to be perpendicular to the long axis of the regulator. Said another way, you do not want a regulator designed for vertical installation. Price is the same, but they are NOT interchangeable.

Brian, A good idea to get a drop hitch so the tow bar is closer to horizontal. Remember, in hard braking, the front end of the coach does down, the back UP. You don't want the Mini to run "under the coach" were you to have to do a panic stop.

Nan, The propane regulator is under the gray/silver plastic cover on the right of the top picture. So, line pressure to appliances should be the same on coach tank or outside tank-- above you mentioned that flame was higher on coach tank?? Not sure that makes sense unless the auxiliary tank is empty OR you opened the valve on that tank too quickly and it is not allowing full gas flow. Try turning the valve on the auxiliary tank off and back on SLOWLY with all propane appliances OFF. Please confirm from my first post above: " You say you cleaned the burner tube-- did you remove it to clean or just blow it out? Were the vertical slits still in good shape or rusty? "

To follow up on John's excellent post, tell us how far into the "run on propane you get". Removing the outside access door for the refrigerator gives you best information. If possible, remove the little sheet metal shield over the burner area (bottom of the "chimney") When refrigerator turned on (to propane or automatic if no 120 VAC) AND temperature in the refrigerator is high enough that the thermistor signals for cooling to start) two things happen: you will hear the "clicking" of the ignitor and if you put your hand on the gas valve, you will feel it "click open" allowing propane to the burner. If this happens, did the flame light. If so, how long did it stay light? Was it nice and blue. For the flame to continue (gas valve stay open) the flame sensor must sense flame. Be aware that all these decisions are made by the PC board which runs on 12 VDC. Low battery voltage can make this process STUPID.

Carl, But, do you have structural damage?? Roof coating and repair of structural damage are quite different.

gregsisk, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, a tech who works on RV roofs for a living can usually tell if a roof is not structurally sound just by walking on it. And, since he made zero $$ off you, he had no reason to tell other than the full truth. As far as whether this is a job for you/you and a helper to undertake, only you can answer that. There is nothing complex about removing roof-top accessories, roofing material and continuing to "dig down" until you find undamaged beams/luan. You would likely need a covered place to work, as pop up showers this time of year in FL would be a real hassle.

Another fine-tuning point-- make sure the "restrictor" is in the end of the refrigerator condensate drain, OR form a drip loop so that warm humid air can not flow up the drain hose into the refrigerator.

Absolutely, if flame is too small due to low propane pressure, it will not cool properly. And defrosting is important-- ice is a great insulator, limiting heat transfer. See if anyone around you has an ice chest you can borrow for an hour. If not, even a cardboard box will work. Turn off the refrigerator. Wait one hour. Remove everything from the freezer and put in an ice chest or cardboard box. If box, cover with towel or something to minimize defrosting. Remove things from the refrigerator section top shelf so you can access the cooling fins. Open both freezer and refrigerator doors. Use a hair dryer on low heat, NOT sticking the front inside the refrigerator-- you don't want to warp the plastic. Defrosting should not take more than 10 minutes. Close doors and turn on refrigerator. Return stuff after it has been running for 20-30 minutes.

We have done 7 in our 36' DP. It is a beautiful drive. BUT (big BUT) it is a very "technical drive". To do it safely it would require your rig to be in good condition and more importantly for the driver to be an experienced mountain driver. Said another way, this is not a route for a "put it D and go" driver!

OK, if it cools properly on 120 VAC but not on propane-- then the cooling unit is probably OK. You say you cleaned the burner tube-- did you remove it to clean or just blow it out? Were the vertical slits still in good shape or rusty? Have you checked gas pressure-- low PSI (11 column inches of water is spec) will cause smaller than normal flame and therefore less cooling? Propane regulators are cheap-- around $25 and not unusual to be bad after 11 years. Do you have an auxiliary fan behind the refrigerator (in the outside area)? If so, and it is running, it will move more air when on shore power (battery voltage higher) than when dry camping. Verify that you have the correct (very minimal) clearance between the coils and outside wall-- specs are in your refrigerator owners manual. Lastly, if that side of the coach is in the sun, cooling unit will not perform as well. ALL these factors are cumulative. It is often small degradations of several factors that cause loss of cooling performance rather than one big one (assuming the cooling unit is OK).

Thanks, Roger. Always good to get the "inside story". One of the things I like about the FMCA Forum-- having a retired tire forensic engineer answer tire failure issues is a real asset.

Locate the boost solenoid. Check voltage at the small "sense" wire that receives 12 VDC when the switch is pushed. Because it takes very little current to close the solenoid, you could use a small jumper wire from the house battery lug of the solenoid to the sense terminal. Be aware that that would be very hard on both the solenoid and the house battery, as it would cause a very large amount of current to go from the charged battery through the solenoid to the deeply discharged battery. Said another way, only do this in an emergency. Best advice is still to use an auxiliary battery charger to bring the discharged bank up.

Gary, Suspect part of the wide range of estimates is that in many cases the battery and electrical system must be upgraded to accommodate the residential refrigerator. So, let's start by your telling us: Battery bank size (in amp-hrs @ 12 VDC). What inverter or inverter/charger do you have? Is it MSW or True Sine Wave? Another cost variable is what cabinet modification is needed to accommodate the new refrigerator. This may include closure of the outside access door area. Also, one of the other cost variables is how you will get the old refrigerator out/new one in-- removing a windshield, for example is more expensive than if it will go through the door. So, until more detail is known, I would expect a wide range of quotes.

In many coaches the power to the "battery boost/combine switch" comes from the chassis battery. If not enough voltage, boost solenoid/relay will not close to combine batteries. Best answer is to use an auxiliary charger to bring the chassis battery up.

Many shops to not have the room to accommodate an RV. But the mechanicals are not "exotic"! You may need to go by and visit--- take pictures of the valves-- that will make them more comfortable!

Absolutely nothing special about the dash A/C. Anyone who works on automotive A/C's can do it. To save time/money, locate the low and high pressure valves for him. Only possible difference is if the A/C condenser uses the CAC/radiator's fan (i.e. the A/C condenser is outboard of the CAC) the fan may not turn fast enough at 1000 RPM to move sufficient air. I have had to lightly spray water (garden hose or even pour water on it to cool it down. Verify both those items (valve location and location of the condenser) and anyone with gauges can work on it.

Yup, measure your space and take a yard stick with you when you go shopping. May have to settle for your 2nd choice TV to get the right size. And, I for a bedroom where you don't have a sound bar, make sure the speaker is on the FRONT.

Concept is OK. Agree, mechanism securing door/TV to cabinet doesn't look up to the job.

The valve stem/stem extension is certainly a likely source of an air leak. Soap bubbles will hep identify that-- blowing bubbles is BAD.

Wow, a Davco is a great fuel filter. So, does the DD engine have a secondary fuel filter (assume so) and the other filter is for the generator?? A common/good set up.

I suspect we will have some pilots weight in. I know that when it is very hot (desert SW in summer) that lift is enough less than they have to be concerned about take-off weight. Cold air-- more molecules to create aerodynamic drag/lift. Was in Anchorage last week. Went by an incredible FedEx facility when we went from a viewing area of Denali (park on Cook Inlet) to the airport. Denali was visible-- over 130 miles away. A rare site. Doubt heat is too much of a factor there. 70 degrees F would be a real heat wave!