wolfe10

If you need suggestions of what to do in ports, let us know what your interests are and we can help. Been there, done that. In fact we lived in Juneau 40+ years ago.

Another, "much better than standard" approach is to: 1. Check tire for run out. If not correctable to less than .035" run out, TRUE THE TIRE. 2. Then, spin balance on the rig (front tires). Both are becoming "lost arts", as Bubba with 15 minutes of training can't do it.

BILLC, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I agree, sounds like you lost 12 VDC. Start by verifying that your "salesman switch" usually located by the door is on. Than check voltage at batteries and their connections.

Note from moderator: Please post responses to Tim's question here rather than in the trailer section: https://community.fmca.com/topic/12752-tire-inflation/?tab=comments#comment-103883 Thanks.

If no unusual wear, no need to rotate.

bhlutz1920, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since Jomax (at least their product I use) is mixed with chlorine bleach. Would be surprised if that is approved by your awning manufacturer. BUT, check with them, as there are a number of different "fabrics" used as awning material.

Yes, the door placard is based on each axle being loaded to GAWR. That is NOT an assumption you want your life riding on. And, a LONG Class C is one of the more prone to being overloaded, so weighing is even more important.

Totally depends on WHAT it is. Can you narrow it down from the list I posted above? What does it "come from" and "go to" (i.e. follow the hose).

Jerry, Can you post a picture. There is a lot of "stuff" in that area: CAC (charge air cooler) Radiator Transmission cooler Possibly hydraulic cooler Possibly fuel cooler Certainly hydraulics to run the fans

Jerry, What hydraulic fitting is cracked that requires radiator removal? Is this for one of the fans? Can it not be removed from the inside? For others, I did a search from Jerry's profile he has a 2004 Monaco Dynasty so this will be a side radiator. Good idea to put your rig info in your signature.

While I find this discussion of good academic value, RV's are probably the LEAST affected by oil-related wear issues. RV's tend to do the least number of miles for the engines we run. Looking back, hard to recall any reported oil-related failures being reported. So, while I am a strong believer in synthetic oils for my other vehicles, I feel an annual oil change with an oil that meets the API and viscosity recommendations of for my engine will forever keep my engine happy.

My understanding is that the later generation 2 strokes (the Silver Series) actually kept their oil INSIDE. Quite a few late 1980's -1994 Foretravels with 6V92's. And, boy do they RUN-- 36', no slide, semi-monocoque chassis with 350 HP DD.

bilkish, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully, you have found other friendly FMCA members you age and certainly other friendly FMCA members your grandparent's age! Should be able to find "alternate grandparents" at most FMCA events. And, if you bring roast corn you could end up being the center of attention in any get together.

Thanks for the update. And congratulations on the diagnosis and fix.

Bill, Wow, that PDF shows a very wide viscosity range: from 5 -30 on the low end to 15-40 on the high end. Wonder about temperature discussions to go along with those varied ranges. Or what year model or engines particular recommendations apply to, though I suspect ambient temperature is more a determinant.

Rick, Have you checked with the Hospital? A number of them have accommodations for RV's.

Correct. Take the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the Inflation table to determine the MINIMUM PSI for all tires on that axle.

In a word, YES. Weight on the tag is critical in balancing front to rear loads. Ideal is to have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. On some coaches (chassis) the load on the tag is easily adjustable. Not so on others.

Yes, the new API designation CK-4 is backwards compatible with all brands of 4 stroke diesel engines. And still believe Delo 100 40 wt is recommended oil for the 2 stroke DD's. And, I would strictly adhere to the viscosity recommendations for YOUR engine. I follow this on both gasoline and diesel powered vehicles.

OK, let's talk about the other (and primary) cause of contacts/points in ATS's burning/pitting: TRANSFERRING POWER SOURCES UNDER LOAD. Wear on the contacts is quite different if asked to switch with a zero of low amp draw vs 25-20 amp draw, One of the "best practices" is to NOT be running high loads (like A/C's) when changing from generator to shore power. Even more important when changing from shore power to generator, as it is best to allow the generator a little warm up time before applying a heavy load.

And, those boxes are not shaken and vibrated down the road.

I would not use the term "always caused by....". BUT, loose connections causing RESISTANCE, causing HEAT, causing DEGRADED WIRE AND CONNECTIONS, causing more RESISTANCE.................... IS the most common cause of failure. Do you see any difference in the type of connections in there vs the ones in a house-type breaker box? Were these single set screws, stranded wire and no Locktite really purpose-designed to be shaken down the road? For many years, I have recommended an annual tightening of the screws in ATS and also in the 120 VAC breaker box(s).

Carl, Is this a new issue or has it always been that way?

Yes, if wired correctly, disconnect= power off.

If replacing with a higher output pump (which will draw more amps), make sure your fuses/switches/relays are sized to accommodate the larger pump.