wolfe10

Dlong9999, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you currently have a motorhome that you are trying to modify-- if so, what is it. That will help us offer you good advice. If you do not yet have one, what other considerations are important to you in selecting one?

08Winger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since it changes with engine RPM/load, the drive shaft is the place to start. And since it did not change with change of tires, again the drive shaft is where to start. Please do post what chassis you are on.

Not sure any of us know how they would choose a driver. BUT, I believe you can choose a driver (friend, family member, etc) and they will pay his expenses. So, probably a moot point.

Reminder of "RV Math": On 15 amp, you can use up to 15 amps total. On 30 amp, you can use up to 30 amps total. On 50 amp, you can use up to 100 AMPS TOTAL (TWO 50 AMP HOTS). Yes, all those total numbers are ideal numbers, assuming perfect wiring and breakers on the shore power side. Figure 10% less for sustained use.

It can only be trailered, not flat towed or front wheels only on a dolly.

No, a formula for tag vs drive axle can be very misleading. You need to verify what weight each axle is carrying.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year is your Subaru? Automatic or manual transmission?

Yes, the full DOT number with the date code is only molded into one sidewall of each tire. Depending on the installer, it could be facing toward the outside or the inside. It is generally in a slightly raised/indented area at the end of the full dot number, since that part of the mold has to be changed weekly. It is a 4 digit code with no spacing. So, 4112 was made the 41st week of 2012. If a three digit date code the tire was made in the last century, as the date codes went from 3 to 4 digits on 1/1/2000!!!

This will be the first Forum get together that Dianne and I will not be able to attend. My father has his 100th birthday July 9, and our whole extended family will be taking him on a cruise. Brett

Ya'll really need to get back out in your RV's. This keyboard time is making some stircrazy. Almost like the dead of winter. But, then guess we can consider some it this entertainment time. BTW, I did e-mail my contact at FMCA yesterday (who will read it tomorrow when he gets to work) and asked for more information on the program. But, heck, look at all the fun we would have missed if it had been easy.

There are a number of factors that go into determining the useful like of a tire: 1. Run at correct PSI (never under-inflated/over loaded). 2. Stored covered (white cover cooler than dark colors) and/or indoors when not on the road. 3. Driven frequently better than just sitting.

And, have front end caster set toward the high end of spec (yes, involves installing shims).

RPSTEWART, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I use two websites to choose stations: http://then.gasbuddy.com/ to identify less expensive stations along our route. Click on "map" in the area where you would first start looking to refuel. Then scroll along your route-- can cover a day's drive in 2 minutes. Then copy and paste the address of potential stops in: https://www.google.com/maps . Use both satellite and street view to see if it is RV friendly/you have room to maneuver.

If a Caterpillar dealer had worked on it, very likely Caterpillar Corp would have a record of it. Call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with the engine serial number and find out its history. 877 777-3126

Yes, first thing to do is verify that tire pressure is correct for the actual weight they are carrying. I would call the NM highway patrol and ask for their truck enforcement division. They often carry the individual wheel weight scales to check trucks. Perhaps you can arrange to meet them at the beginning/end of shift and have them weigh your coach. In most cases, they are impressed that you want to safely operate your coach and will accommodate. If that is not available, suspect they can recommend a scales, where you can at least get axle weights. Post what they are and what tires you have and we can get you to the correct inflation table for your tires. Actual weights will also allow us to advise on weight distribution. And, chassis issues call for a shop that works on chassis, NOT in most cases an RV dealer. So, if they work on medium duty/OTR trucks, they should know your chassis.

Indeed, do not leave the black tank valve open. Let it fill over half, then drain and flush.

I agree, as that means you either have an inverter with "pass through" feature or a separate ATS. In plain terms, when not on shore power or generator, the inverter supplies (inverters) the refrigerator from the house battery bank. And, when on shore power or generator, power automatically comes from that source. So, what inverter do you have/does it have pass through feature. And if not, does it "feed" a second ATS?

Carl, Yes, there and other places. Just have not found a 26A to look at. May drive to Cleburne, there is on there and one in Kennendale. Hate to drive 600 miles without even seeing one to know if it will fit our needs. That is the purpose of this thread-- see if we can even eye ball one in the Houston/Galveston area.

Safari did not make the ABS controller. Probably Wabco. What year model is your coach? Have you located the ABS controller?

Bruce, Yes, sold the Alpine to a nice couple from Washington state. Going to miss driving that one, but are in the hunt for something 30' or under. Hard to find fit and finish in the smaller ones. Same for acceptable WB/OL ratios.

Don't know quite yet. We have been spoiled by aspects of our three DP's over the last 19 years, but have places we know that we have not been able to go with our larger rigs. In the meantime, gasoline engines have progressed quite a bit (both power and economy) while diesels have become quite a bit more complex. Not ruling in/out any power source, but at this point, looking for a better quality shorter coach. Again, never seen an Aspect/Cambria 26A, but on paper like its size, long wheelbase/overall length, good power to weight ratio, good CCC, etc. Could fall in love or be disappointed. Smart enough to want to do more investigation before ruling anything in/out.

Agree, wonky sensors absolutely the most likely cause of your worry. If you place you can dump black water (most homes on city sewer have a large clean-out point between home and main line) you could use a bucket to drain what is in there. If, as we suspect, you have a sensor problem, not fluid level problem, a couple of buckets is all you will get.

Dianne and I are looking to downsize. One of the coaches on our list (just from internet searching) is the 2005-2008 Winnebago Aspect 26A/Itasca Cambria 26A. We are in League City, TX (just south of Houston). Would really appreciate it if anyone in the area would allow us to look at theirs so we can rule in/out that selection. Thanks.

Are you sure that the black tank IS that full. The sensors are notoriously inaccurate and fluid level in there may be difficult to determine. I agree with you-- can't see a source for water to get in there. There is no direct connection potable or gray to black.

We tow a 2014 Hyundai Elantra 6 speed manual transmission. Light, easy to tow, particularly with the Roadmaster Invisibrake which requires no set up. Just hook it up, key in ignition, but not on and go. No restrictions. Also comfortable to drive and just under 40 MPG average.