wolfe10

Yes, cutting vents into the back of the coach is one way. But, with the full width mud flap removed, hot air can escape "down and back" into the low pressure area behind the coach. I would try that first, as a lot less "surgery" required.

rwsmith, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can't answer for the 2017, but our 2014 Elantra manual transmission is very easy to tow-- key in ignition but turned off, transmission in neutral and GO. We have the Roadmaster tow bar and Roadmaster Invisibrake. Never a problem. I have no experience with the "start button" feature on the newer model. One of the features of the Invisibrake is that it charges the toad battery when the coach parking/clearance lights are on. Since we always drive with them on for safety, never had a run down battery. Worse case if the new ones have a higher amp draw is that you will need to run a more robust charge line from coach to toad battery.

Roger, Feedback: when the inverter is powering the outlet, the line from breaker box to that outlet will be POWERED. That means that all breakers in the main breaker box will be powered (unless you also shut off the breaker to the circuit that powers the refrigerator circuit). With the breaker box hot, the converter will be powered. It will charge the batteries. Because neither inverter nor converter area 100% efficient, this "closed loop" condition will deplete power. Yes, the alternator MAY be able to keep up, but at the least, a large waste of power and overheated alternator. Again use a double pole, double throw switch or an ATS. The second ATS would be a lot more expensive and basically the same wiring.

Byron, No, do not believe that is a valid conclusion. Probably more a question of lack of insulation in the OP's coach. Said another way, with a rear radiator, MORE heat is trapped in the engine room upon shut down.

Byron, Copy the address (just highlight and select copy). Then at the top of your post, there is a "link" as in one piece of chain symbol. Click on it and it brings up a window. Paste the web address in the box. Then click on "insert in post".

Roger, Perhaps I am not picturing what you are doing. But, with the switch on, are you plugging it into one of the outlets behind the refrigerator and the refrigerator is plugged into the other outlet? Both outlets in the same fixture and supplied by the same hot and neutral from the main breaker box? If so, you will be "backfeeding" the whole coaches 30 amp breaker panel including the converter. This will create a closed loop and eat a lot of power. That is why I suggested a double throw. It would absolutely guarantee that only one source at a time powers the refrigerator with no backfeeding.

Thanks for the update. Glad it was a good/uneventful trip.

Yup, with double pole, double throw: Side 1: terminal 1 hot from main breaker box (shore power or generator) terminal 2 neutral from same OUT: terminal 1 hot to refrigerator terminal 2 neutral to refrigerator Side 2: terminal 1 hot from inverter terminal 2 neutral from inverter

Roger, Just use a double pole, double throw switch to switch the hot lead and neutral of the 120 VDC to the refrigerator between inverter and shore/generator to the refrigerator. Couple of bucks and a clean installation.

Roger, Those male/male extensions are called "dead man's plugs". And, you will be backfeeding all circuits on your 30 amp coach, including the converter. BAD IDEA. Better to either move the plug as you leave in the morning or wire through a switch so you can choose power source.

Jim, You do NOT want the hydraulic fan on wide open all the time. You are devoting a lot of extra fuel and HP to do that. And, agree, high air flow will solve the problem. But insulation is a much better answer. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Actually hotter than the radiator most of the time. It is the outermost "layer" in the cooling package. An air to air radiator which takes hot intake air from the turbo and cools it before sending it to the engine. No first hand experience with Dynamat.

I would sure start by insulating the roof of the engine compartment in that area. And yes, additional exits for the hot air would also help. Some have removed the full width mud flap which also aids air flow. Our Alpine with the same engine/side radiator did not even have the full width mud flap from the factory for this very reason. Is this closet above the CAC/radiator?

Since I have not worked on an Aqua-hot system, I contacted an old friend who has a Factory Authorized Aqua Hot Service Center in SE Texas. Here is his reply: When using the diesel burner for hot water, the number two pump will run while the burner is running to stir the coolant tank to provide uniform temp through out the 16 gallon tank. The number two pump supplies heating zone two with hot coolant. Zone two is usually the bathroom and basement fan coils. While the pump is running, the fans are not. But the coil in the bathroom is getting hot coolant. Apparently the exhaust fan is drawing air across the bathroom fan coil giving him his warm air flow. Blocking the bathroom vent for the fan coil would be easier than stopping the coolant flow. Plus if one stops the coolant flow, he defeats the stirring of the coolant tank for good hot water heating — not a good idea. He could open the bathroom cabinet where the fan coil is located and install bypass pex piping with valves to accomplish same to allow the coolant to flow but not heat the coil. Seems blocking the vent is a whole lot easier. You could contact him directly if you like: Rudy Legett 713.818.3234.

Guys, Please, let's get back to the original topic: BDing at Hampton Beach NH Thanks.

roadiestx, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked voltage at the batteries with a digital voltmeter? You can buy one for around $10. They are an invaluable tool in a motorhome. Actual voltage is a LOT better diagnostic tool than the idiot lights.

mesaloose, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked that FMCA has your correct e-mail address on file?

Yes, 1000 hours is a BIG service on Onan QD generators. Should be in your generator owners manual.

Diesel electric locomotives are completely different than electric or hybrid vehicles. The "electric" part of the locomotive serves as the transmission. 100% of the power comes from the diesel engine. The reason is that electric motors give full torque at zero RPM. Good for starting long, heavy trains. Beats "slipping the clutch"!

Good idea. Will do. As you probably know, this is a rare occurrence-- to have multiple threads on the same topic running concurrently and a desire to focus a discussion in one place. But, agree, a link to a move is a good idea.

Bill, Just enter "Verizon" in the search box at the top right of the page. No, I have not deleted any threads. But, still makes more sense to discuss the same topic in one place, not multiple places.

While I absolutely agree with adding a cushion to the "minimum PSI for a given load", I do take exception to the statement: "No tire mfgr. I'm aware of recommends running less than the federal tire placard in/on the vehicle." You might provide a link to such a statement by a tire manufacturer. Were there such a statement, it would be based on their corporate ATTORNEY, not their engineer! The inflation PSI on the GVWR plaque is the correct PSI IF, repeat IF you are running axles at their capacity (GAWR). Your axles may be well under or over that. Inflate based on the heavier wheel position on each axle, all tires on an axle to have the same PSI based on that heavier wheel position.

While I absolutely agree with adding a cushion to the "minimum PSI for a given load", I do take exception to the statement: "No tire mfgr. I'm aware of recommends running less than the federal tire placard in/on the vehicle." You might provide a link to such a statement by a tire manufacturer. Were there such a statement, it would be based on their corporate ATTORNEY, not their engineer! The inflation PSI on the GVWR plaque is the correct PSI IF, repeat IF you are running axles at their capacity (GAWR). Your axles may be well under or over that. Inflate based on the heavier wheel position on each axle, all tires on an axle to have the same PSI based on that heavier wheel position.

The OP's 1999 Safari Sahara 3506 is a rear radiator/CAC, Caterpillar 3126. Sorry (actually I am glad) I have no first hand experience with R&R.

Yes, several ways to do this. You could use a diode as Ross suggested, but a regular diode looses .7 VDC to heat. Another option is to use a relay triggered by an ignition-hot source, in indeed you only want charging when the coach ignition is on. A few bucks more, but full voltage would reach the battery. If you always disconnect the toad when not driving the coach or are on shore power so coach battery is being charged, no need for even the relay-- just wire using the parts listed below. Parts: Fuse at positive terminal of BOTH coach and toad battery. 8 gauge wire for both positive and ground.

Let me ask that any further discussion of the Verizon/FMCA plan take place on this thread http://community.fmca.com/topic/11000-verizon-news-update-disappointing-news-about-our-newest-benefit/ where Charlie Adcock's letter on this was just posted. It also went out as an e-blast to all FMCA members. Thanks. Moderator