wolfe10

I agree. And, best to add some water to the tank (tank flush if you have one or even hose into the toilet. Like Ross, I would not store a coach, particularly this time of year with 1/3 full black tank.

Going to be a lot of "apples and oranges" comparisons here. Your 3 liter MB diesel has little resemblance to the diesels found in most Class A motorhomes. The Class A diesels are all in-line 6 cylinders with displacement from 6.7 to 15 liters. The longer the stroke the lower the RPM at which maximum torque is generated, the lower the RPM for maximum HP and the lower the RPM for governed RPM. And, yes, the larger of these large diesels are the same as in OTR trucks that often go over a million miles before in-frame overhauls. Sure, they can fail, but for most RV's, the coach will wear out long before the engine. Same goes for the Allison transmission. Most failures are due to neglect or driver abuse. This takes nothing away from the excellent drive train in your Sprinter-based RV, but they ARE different.

Yes, small RV refrigerator are still available with 12 VDC. So, that is a viable option for you. You might put your rig description in your signature, that will help, as there is a very wide range of "how things work". As far as what would happen if a propane line were cut: Manchester Tank is one of the larger suppliers of RV tanks: http://www.mantank.com/products/rvproducts.htm They don't give much detail, but in the description, this is an important statement (about half way down): Vapor Service Valve — internal excess flow. Sorry, can't answer your expectation of temperature for your refrigerator-- no experience with that size absorption refrigerator.

Pierre, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have forwarded your question to the person on the FMCA staff who works with the vehicle manufacturers. He may be tied up with the Indianapolis Convention right now, so it might not be an immediate response.

A much-debated issue with good reasoning on both sides. First, there are a number of alternatives here, depending on how each coach is wired. For many years now, absorption refrigerators are either 120 VAC or propane. So, "just 12 VDC" is not an option for most of them. Yes, you do need 12 VDC for the PC board, but it is not used as a "heat source". Some coaches are wired so that an inverter can be used to power the refrigerator, others are not. So, if you have a choice because of the way your coach is set up of either using propane or turning the refrigerator off while driving, THAT I believe is the real question. My personal answer is "leave it on propane while driving". Yes, I pressure check my propane system annually, check lines visually, and annually do a refrigerator burner area tune-up. My reasoning is that danger of food poisoning from high refrigerator temperatures is more of a risk than a problem with the propane system if kept in good working condition. Remember, all propane systems have a high flow cutoff, so even if you cut a line, it will not create a huge propane leak. Again, a personal decision as to potential risks. And sure, if I am only going to be on the road for a short time, leave it off. I ALWAYS TURN OFF ALL GAS APPLIANCES WHEN REFUELING. Shutting off propane but leaving the appliance on still allows it to use its ignitor (spark).

gnmiller, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No first hand experience, but this guy has received a lot of recommendations: http://www.smittysrvwelding.com/

Imdiana, Welcome to the FMCA Forum, You will need to pull the brakes and see what all needs to be replaced. If a shop does it, be sure they know the cause, as wheel cylinders/caliper piston seals may have been severely overheated and need to be replaced. I mention this because they are not visible like brake shoes/pads and drums/disks. You will also want the brake fluid changed.

72moore, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let's look at the temperature in the freezer compartment before we conclude that the icemaker itself is defective. Clearly, if the temperature is at or close to 32 degrees F, it will have a touch time making ice. Put a thermometer in the freezer and see what it is reading. Is this on 120 VAC, propane or both? Is the refrigerator in a slide? If so, are the fans behind the refrigerator working?

Ray, Another option for viewing FMCA Forum posts (the one I and many others use) is to get zero by e-mail, but set up a "clickable favorite" of http://community.fmca.com/discover/unread/ You can look down that list in a matter of seconds and click on any of interest.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have-- may get better information from others with the same coach.

Ray, I don't follow discussions on irv2, so here goes: Best way to determine correct tire pressure is to weight each wheel position when loaded as you go down the road. Take the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table. That will tell you the MINIMUM PSI for that load. Most of us add 5-10% to that as a fudge factor/safety factor. All tires on an axle get the same PSI based on the heavier wheel position. Next best-- get axle weights (not as good as it ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution which is very unlikely on a motorhome). You will want to add at least 10% as a fudge factor/safety factor. These last to could be very close or WAY off in PSI. And, you hope they are WAY OFF, because if they are close, you have tires loaded to their max carrying capacity. And, if that is the case, were it my coach, I would look at upgrading to a tire with more carrying capacity. Said another way, I don't want tires to be run at 100% of their capacity: 1. Go by the PSI on the GVWR sticker. Yes, it is the correct PSI IF, repeat IF the axle is, indeed loaded to its GAWR. Again, I would not want this to be the case! 2. Go by the PSI on the sidewall of the tire. Again, this ASSUMES that the tire is loaded to its max carrying capacity. As in 1, I would not want this to be the case!

Ray, Yes, choosing whether to get all, some or none of the new posts on the FMCA Forum sent to you by e-mail is a preference you choose. Again, I selected zero 7 years ago and get zero. Choosing whether or not to get ads and notifications from FMCA HQ by e-mail is and always has been a choice (and always a separate one from your choice on the FMCA Forum. Every e-blast has a "You can unsubscribe" option.

luv2travl, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are a number of things that can degrade refrigerator performance. Some minor, some major. Is you refrigerator in a slide? If so, are the fans working? Does this happen on propane? electricity? both? What is ambient temperature? The refrigerator side of the coach in the sun? When was the last "burner area tune-up? Have you done the "dollar bill test" all around the door gaskets? Results? Is there a restrictor in the refrigerator condensate drain to keep hot air from entering the refrigerator? Any ammonia smell and/or evidence of yellow powder either inside or on the back of the refrigerator? What is clearance between the refrigerator coils and the outside wall of the coach?

loybern, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have no first hand knowledge of towing the Edge. But, a word of caution. There have more than a handful of vehicles over the last couple of years where the manufacturer declared them towable four wheels down only to later decide that they were NOT towable four wheels down. So, I would either go by the owner's manual or contact Ford for the latest information on your model Edge.

John, Yes, your math is correct (as is everyone else's): 12,000 watts divided by 120 volts= 100 amps. The same 12,000 watts divided by 240= 50 amps. No argument, no discussion. The point many of us are trying to make is for those not familiar with electricity is there is a BIG difference in available power between 30 amp and 50 amp. 30 amps times 120 VAC= 3,600 watts. A LOT less than 12,000 watts. I am going to lock this discussion, as everyone is saying the same thing over and over. and over...... Please feel free to PM me if there is something new to add. Thanks.

Yes, think this thread has run its course. We all agree: 30 amp RV power provides up to 30 amps of 120 VAC. 50 amp RV power provides up to 100 amps of 120 VAC. And, that on older set ups with smaller gauge wire, worn breakers, etc, one may not be able to draw the full amps without tripping the breaker. Certainly none of us here came up with the terminology-- the important thing is that there is a HUGE difference in available power between 30 and 50 amp RV service.

We seem to have to very different issues being discussed here. The OP asked about e-mails of Forum posts (An individual's choice-- BTW, I selected and get ZERO e-mail alerts about new Forum posts . Instead, I have this set up as a favorite): http://community.fmca.com/discover/unread/ AND E-blasts of ads by FMCA. So, if posting, please identify which you are referring to.

John, Agreed, if more than 50 amps (or even very close to that for long enough to overheat the breaker) is demanded of either leg, both breakers will trip. But, don't want to confuse here: 50 amp RV service is 100 amps @120VAC. Here is a good link: http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm Second paragraph: Each leg is 50 amps @ 120 volts. 50-amp X 120-volt = 6000 watts But since there are 2 HOT 120-volt legs at 6000 + 6000 = 12,000 watts to use in the RV...

John, Not sure I understand what you are saying. If the outlet is 50 amp and the coach is 50 amp, you DO have 100 amps available. A 50 amp outlet has two 50 amp breakers pinned together. So up to 50 amps on L1 and 50 on L2. You are correct, the neutral only carries the DIFFERENCE between load on L1 and L2. Indeed, if the coach is only wired for 30 amps, whole different ball game.

rthooker@msn.c, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am trying to picture how a cylinder liner can slide down and hit the crank. Clearly, if it did there are issues with the block. Please, please post pictures of this. Assume you have verified this is not a "wrist pin issue" (see info above). Though most of those problem occurred very early in engine life, not after more than a decade. Was there evidence of cylinder liner erosion (picture of outside of cylinder liner would be helpful)? Like all diesel engine with liners, the proper coolant is important for engine life. Improper coolant can lead to cylinder erosion and in worse cased to holes through the cylinder liner.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, you have a vacuum problem. Could be nothing more than a vacuum line between manifold and HVAC control that came off, melted or cracked. The default position when no vacuum in the defrost vents. So, pull the engine cover and start "running the vacuum lines".

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Excellent question. Best, in the morning before starting. Next best, at least 10 minutes after shut down. Worse, immediately after shut down. Worst, with engine running And, do not add oil until oil level reaches the REAL "add" mark. I say real because no engine manufacturer supplies the oil dipstick-- the chassis maker does that. And, and excellent idea to CALIBRATE the engine oil dipstick to make sure it reflects your engine manufacturer's recommendation for your engine oil capacity. It is free and easy to do at your next oil change.

Ray, Not sure those statements are "unproven" or incorrect. What they are is "legal speak" for CYA by the tire manufacturer. While they are A WAY to determine the correct tire pressure, even according to the tire manufacturers, determining tire pressure based on load is still THEIR RECOMMENDED METHOD. That is why they have gone to the work of compiling the inflation tables and spending several pages explaining weighing and the correct way to determine correct PSI. I am holding the glossy hard copy of the Michelin RV Tire guide. It devotes 5 pages to showing how/why basing PSI on load is recommended. This in addition to the pages of actual inflation tables. Were the "legal speak" their recommendation, they could have saved a lot of money on printing these books.

Yes, nice solution, Tom. Brett