BillAdams

Fun memories.......now!

http://www.rvparky.com/search?l=Bothell%2C+WA%2C+United+States&x=47.76095&y=-122.20558829999999#!l=Bothell%2C+WA%2C+United+States&x=47.76095&y=-122.2055883&n=&c=p&c=1&c=2&c=3&c=4&c=5&c=18&c=19&d=

I have a hard wired 50 amp Surge Guard and I am very happy. The price was reasonable and it did the install myself. The Progressive Industries unit is also very good. You really can't go wrong with either be it portable or built in.

No ice and water through the door? DW would not accept that after having it in our RV for the last 17 years. She wants French Door (God only knows why) and most all of the counter depth fridges with the doors off will fit through the door, but it not, it really does not cost a lot more to call a glass company to remove your windshield while you move one in and one out and then replace it. We did this for my brother-in-law and they have never looked back.

Start with RVParky and then check their reviews at RVParkReviews. If you still need more info call the campgrounds to ensure they can handle your rig and make reservations if necessary.

I did clean and lube the unit about once a year. You use WD-40 to clean everything really well and once it all looks good again you use dry silicone spray to get rid of all of the WD-40! I would do what I could see, crawl out and move forward just a tiny bit and do it again. However, I would guess that this setup would work flawlessly without much intervention at all. Driving though a rain storm likely cleans the connection very well. Just be sure that when you connect/disconnect you are on flat ground. We were on a fairly steep hill when we engaged the disconnect. We disconnected the van from the RV and left the van on the hill. The driveshaft must not have been fully engaged and as Janet walked away to help me park the RV the van rolled down the hill, jumped a 30 foot embankment, knocked over a huge propane tank and then crashed through the wall of the RV park office game room. Needless to say, the 3rd van I mentioned we got due to this error on our part but we still had another Remco installed on that van.

I used a Remco disconnect for over 14 years one 3 different vans without issue. The are excellent and work perfectly. It must be installed properly to work properly but otherwise, it's great. It only takes about 10 seconds to connect or disconnect the drive shaft and you don't accumulate miles as you have nothing turning up front. Just the 4 wheel are rolling just like you were pulling a trailer.

Oddly enough, you just did give good advice without knowing what he/she has.

SD is (was?) a bad place to try to get health insurance as a full-timer. We left SD due to the fact that the coverage available was only available in SD. That might have changed but it was a disaster when the change took place.

Certainly not ALL 4 wheel drive cars can be towed 4 wheels down but with the correct setup, many can be.

I have cruise-air basement air (3 of them and 2 still work) and I absolutely do not recommend this in an RV. It is quieter but issues can be major and they are always costly. If a roof air goes bad you throw it off the roof and install another. I would be thousands of dollars ahead if I had roof airs. If the coach is going to be bigger you will either be able to install 2 15,000 BTU units or, even better, a 3rd unit. 1 for the bedroom and 2 out front. They will also likely be ducted allowing airflow throughout the coach no matter what's running.

Good luck and keep the doors locked. Hopefully you will be out of there tomorrow and it will just be something you can laugh about in the future. Hope you are headed to Ruidoso as we spent a couple of really nice nights there over New Years a few years back.

I just had to replace the door lock switch on mine and it was about $78 plus shipping and that was from Westland Sales. They have helped with with trouble-shooting the unit a couple of times and really know there stuff!

The tanks should be nearly exactly where the dump valves are. In my coach the freshwater tank sits at floor level with the black and grey tanks on top. My coach is not your coach but it might be a good place to start looking. There should be some removable wall panels allowing VERY limited access but you might be able to find the leaking connection (hopefully) once you get access.

Are you saying that these connections are inside the "hard candy shell" of the Mobley? Do you have pictures? While I get the advantage of an external antenna, I have doubts that running a USB to a wireless router would double your speeds. Most folks are already reporting 20+Mb up and down in good 4g areas.

"Could you use it"? Absolutely. I am current plugged into 30 amp with my Prevost and I am "getting by". However, it pretty difficult. You can't turn anything on until you think about what is already in use. The better the wiring is going to the 30 amp plug the better your experience will be but it's hard to tell what's there. I would not make your buying choice based upon all electric or not but it should be a check list item. We have successfully lived in our electric coach for 20 years and sometimes we simply have to fire up our generator to get by. If you compare how much you paid for your coach to the extra fuel you had to burn to run the generator from time to time you will discover that it is a tiny part of the cost of ownership. If you plan to travel to Yuma, AZ in July you will learn that you cannot stop at an RV park that does not provide 50 amp service. If you plan to travel to Detroit in the Winter the same may not be true if you also have diesel heat but your fuel bill will skyrocket! I will never go back to a propane coach so it's really a matter of finding a coach you love, a floor plan you love and hitting the road.

This has nothing to do with On-Star and will not allow the use of On-Star in a vehicle. It does not read anything about your cars condition or get any other data from your car. While the Mobley connects the the OSBII port, it only has 2 connections and they are power and ground. You plug it into that port for no other reason than to provide power and you can then move it to the RV if you buy (or make) an OSBII adapter to supply power to the 2 ports that are active on the Mobley (2 and 14, maybe?)

That is a 120V system. The switch is to ensure no power gets there while running his MSW inverter but will work when running the generator. The only draw back to the 120V system is that you can't run both burners on high as the same time but that would still allow both at 1/2 or 1 on full and one on simmer.

There is not a need for 2 but you can use that to plug into the power pole and verify there are no issues before you plug in your coach. I would just see if you can find out what kind of protection the coach has as the Progressive is one of the best. If the coach is that new, however, I suspect what you have built in is likely pretty good.

Most home induction cooktops (all?) are going to require 240V service to handle the load. For the RV I suggest that you look at the True Induction units. http://www.trueinduction.com/ Available on Amazon for about $250.

Just remember that when using a convection / microwave, you can do convection only. Then it's just a small oven. I am sure you can bake using a combination but I like baked foods baked. We have done very well with ours for the last 18 years.

Jeep Grand Cherokee! Built to be towed by the factory. Comfy, 4WD, 1 touch to tow, 1 touch to drive. The Cherokee has some issues but if you want a cheaper car it's OK as well but needs a special wiring harness. If you want a used car, the 2012 Jeep Liberty is an awesome towed (the one I have) and requires nothing special.

I like to keep ours in the least used area of the coach so, for us, that means the bedroom. Even the best litter can't "cover it up" until the act is completed and that can lead to some temporary odors that I would prefer to be away from a location I frequent even it can't be seen.

Just keep in mind that the S is only meaningful if you have a valid relationship with this company. If you follow some random link to an unknown site with an HTTPS address is just means that the theft that is about to take place will be complete secure and between you and the thief only!

Please don't take offense by this, but if you don't know what HTTP and HTTPS is you might be a bit over your head if you have plans to setup a VPN. Every time you go on the internet you will be visiting a site whose address begins with http://www. or https://www. The S at the end (https) means that you are connected to a secure site like your bank and everything that takes place after that site opens is completely secure. You don't need a VPN or any other form of security. If you go to a known site and it's an HTTPS site (you will also usually see a locked padlock icon vs the unlocked padlock icon) then you can feel comfortable make any necessary transactions. As an example, the reason you can feel safe while shopping at Amazon is the HTTPS address and look for the padlock to the left when you visit. https://www.amazon.com/