wayne77590

Ha ha! I thought of shooting it but I have to much invested and would not get a good return on the carcass. Besides, Earlene holds the gun so I have to be careful what I say about her baby. Glad she doesn't read this forum like she does "other" ones.

Carl, If I had your money I'd have a coach like yours, or at least an air leveling system. :-)

Carl, Only if I need the coach engine running. If I'm going down hill I can shut it off and remove the key, coast and save fuel.

My coach is a 2008 Winne with the level best system. I have had problems since 2010 with my jack system. Three jacks, pump, solenoids all replaced under extended warrant. Still problematic. Alwillumitis, So many possibilities, some already mentioned. Here is one more. Get a heavy duty turkey baster. Stick it in the tank and stir a little then suck up some fluid. Use a paper towel and strain the fluid through the paper towel. If you see a lot of debris, most likely rust, your problem could be blocked solenoids/lines/etc. The system will have to be flushed to include all hydraulic lines. My dealer gave me a $6000 price tag to replace everything with Power Gear and Power Gear now being Lipert Components. Let us know what you find wrong.

My ignition key is detachable fem the key ring. About the only time it is attached is when we are not traveling. By having a detachable I can put it up on the TV crank handle so I remember to lower the antenna when I take the key down. All other keys are in my pocket. By detaching the ignition key when moving it keeps he weight of the heavier key ring from pulling and possibly destroying he ignition switch. Okay, so I'm paranoid. My receiver hitch is a keyed lock with the key on the master key ring. All other clips are the circle-clip. So far no problems.

Some type of material that breaks. Sheesh! I had to order the whole motor.

Missed this post. Yep, really thought it was the same thing that happened to me. Broke/stripped gear. Yes, pricey of over a grand because I needed 2nd day air or faster.

I've read that when in areas where the speed is reduced, think towns, to turn off the exhaust brake and just use the service brake and that will help keep the brakes from glazing. Anyone? My exhaust brake is on all the time except for slow driving.

Joe, don't you just hate it when they are right all the time. Next time don't leave the selective hearing turned on.

Okay, I was in a campground, Military at that, and I found out that my slide would not come in. I had to leave in 4 days. I called around and called around and no one wanted to go through the policies of getting through the main gate. We left the CG in the toad and on the way back I saw a mobile repair unit and stopped and asked if they worked on slides. Yes was the answer and that is when I had to deal with the help. I went to the office and told them that my slide would not come in and I was awaiting part, that I couldn't move and needed at 3 or 4 day extension. The young person said, "You have to move, we have that spot reserved." I told them that I couldn't move because my slide would not come in. They said, "The thingy that comes out and give you shade?" "No, the slide." I told them that I could not move the MH with the slide out. There were two other "helpers" there and none of them could grasp what I was trying to tell them. Trust me, I did my best to explain that the slide gave me extra room when we were parked. I also told them that there was no commercial tow truck in the world that would tow me down the street with a slide out, and I explained the reasons why. These helpers just could not fathom what I was trying to tell them. Finally they called the manager, which I asked for a couple times. The manager came out and I tried explaining my situation but it was like a deer caught in headlights. The manager did get on the computer and said that I could have 2 extra days. Heck, I tool the two days and would deal with the situation if parts and repairs were not done. I contacted the parts supplier and they second day aired the slide motor and I paid the cost. I could just picture one of those 20 ton military wreckers coming down and hauling my butt out of there...what a disaster that would have been. I think all campgrounds should have a basic walk around familiarization course for any people that work in that campground. It's kind of dumb having people work there that don't know a TT from a 5th wheel or a MH, and how the lengths and widths fit into spots. Anyhow many of the helpers at the CGs don't know their apples from their oranges when dealing with RVs. I'm with the others. There is only one person that directs me. If there is a helper out there I totally ignore them and watch my DWs expert directions. I also have audio on the back-up camera and I learned the first time backing up that Whoa means stop. Must be a Texas thing.

Things change and apparently the Ford 6-Speed Automatic Transmission - 6F50/6F55 has to have the battery disconnected according to the Ford Edge 6-Speed Automatic Transmission - 6F50/6F55 manual. My bad. In 2013 the Edge and MKX both had the same requirements and the battery was not mentioned in the manual. In my case I don't know why I have to put the key-less ignition into the accessories mode when after 10 minutes everything shuts off. But, that is the way the manual states and that is the way I do it, by the manual. Yep, to bad they don't standardize it.

I have a 2013 Lincoln MKX and it is the same as the Edge in many aspects. After 4 hours on the road the battery would be dead. My fix for that until I can get a charge line installed is that every couple hours we stop for stretch and other niceties. I start the car and let it run for 5 minutes, then off we go again. Works well for us.

I feel your pain! A later day and I'll tell my story about "the help!"

Looking at the manual for the 2016 Ford Edge it doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery. Here is one link to towing guides: http://www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/

We also have stayed at the Colorado Springs KOA. Management very helpful. They have a "Family Sports Park," and if I remember correctly they have miniture golf, volley ball, horse shoes and a swimming pool.

For traveling in July from FL to CA I would suggest heading North and catching I-40. Each time we have taken it the temperatures were 10˚ cooler than I-10 or I-20. The I-10 and 20 are boring to say the least. Flagstaff AZ will be the last "cooler" spot before you get to the Left Coast. Or travel even further and start your trip in WA. That way on the way back to Southern CA you will have the advantage of being on the ocean side of the highway and easy pull-offs to take in the views. The Northern route up The 101 would put you on the inside with more difficult areas to get off and view the majestic scenery. Also, when heading back in September the temperatures going to FL will be much more enjoyable. Last July and August the temperatures from CA to WA were low to mid 70's during the day and 60's or below during the evening with some days cooler and some warmer but nothing that the AC or heater could not handle.

Wife said she wanted to paint the kitchen. I'm done for the day.

Jocelynn Last year we left Texas on May 14th and returned back home September 13th. We did what you are planning on doing but we have it made. Being retired military we get to stay at military bases. We have traveled in the past from San Diego to Whidbey Is., WA but this time we started out in Oceanside. Having a 40' mh we stayed on Hwy-101 and used the TOAD for sight-seeing along Hwy-1. The Westerners just call them "The 101,' and "The 1." Calif. has the higher fuel and campground rates. Just think location, location, location for CA. As you progress further North those rates will go down some. Having PA, SKP, and other discount programs help but other than PA and SKP they only offer 10% at other parks. We have found in our travels that we never stay enough in one spot to see everything so we make trips back to the areas we want to explore. One example would be The Lost Coast in California, South of Eureka. Wonderful scenic drive but definitely not with a motor home. Staying a week or more will be cheaper in two aspects. First, the number of nights you stay for a week is cheaper per night than regular nightly rates. Second, by staying longer in one spot means you will not be buying fuel as often. Consider going from point A, to B, to C to D in a weeks time. Each day you travel you will have to fuel up so lets say that you fuel up at half a tank and it cost you $150 to fuel. That time 4 is $600 in 4 to 6 days. Think of staying a week at each stop and you spend $600 in a month instead of a week. We don't plan our trip but do consider which route we are going to take and typically on the West Coast it is The 101. If you go into San Diego you will not pick up The 101 until going through LA using The 5. If we were going to start in Southern CA we would again travel to the Oceanside, Vista, Carlsbad area and stay for a while, then using the "Coaster" (wonderful and inexpensive travel system) we would take it and make stops along the way to San Diego. San Diego is a great place to visit. Old Town San Diego is a must, along with Seaport Village, the SD Zoo, and you can take the trains to the surrounding areas. Heading to SFran pick a campground that meets your needs as all the ones around SFran are pricey then use the BART for transportation. For a nominal fee you use the BART to ride into SF and the pass to ride the SF BART system to get around the city. Have to go - honey doo's waiting. Some things never change in a man's life.

Carl, My definitiion of PC is: Someone who thinks they can pick up doo doo by the clean end.

Carl, We have the "Pinto," maybe even "Edsel" of coaches. DW affectionately (NOT) named it "Citrus." You know, one has to be PC now a days.

My personal opinion is that the Progressive EMS-PT50C or EMS-HW50C are the better ones on the market. I acquired the PT-50C back in 2008 and I like the portability of it. We sold the old rig and the PT-50C went to the new rig. The hard wired HW50C is just as good but it does need to be hard wired into the MH's electrical system. Either one is well worth the price and mine has saved me numerous times. Good investment. However, with all the praise I have for the Progressive Industries product, any of the surge protectors on the market are better than nothing at all. p.s., Progressive Industries is discontinuing the PT50C but it still will have a LIFETIME warranty.

Don't forget that the trees hide behind their leaves also. Not fair at all.

Probably stuck on the side of a road in the UP trying to find someone to deliver diesel.

Sandy, Like others we made the trip from Niagara Falls across Canada to Mich. then up to St. Ignace then around and back down the other side. I also start looking at about 1/2 tank. It 2011 when we made that trip and I didn't have any problems finding diesel fuel and places for my 40' with TOAD to pull into. Go for it.

I have TST TPMS and I leave the TPM's on all year both on the coach and the TOAD. I do have to take them off the TOAD when using a pull-along car wash because my Low Profile Vogue wheels let them stick out a little and the rails of the car wash can pull them of ripping out the valve stem. (Go ahead, ask me how I know.) In the past two years or so I have only had to replace one sensor's battery. I have never had one stolen and I don't know anyone that has.