wayne77590

For every 10˚ of temperature change you will loose or gain 2%, so let's say your tires are set for 100 psi. At 40˚ temperature drop you would loos 8% equaling 92 PSI. If your minimum pressure is 92 or above for your load rating you will be okay, so set a fudge factor when setting tire pressure to anticipate gain or loss of pressure. Since you will be increasing temperature by 40˚ from 100 psi your tire pressure would be 108 degrees. If that pressure is within the manufacturer's recommended maximum pressure you will be okay. That is where the fudge factor comes in. If you have tires rated at 110 psi and you minimum pressure for your load is 92 psi setting to 100 psi would mean that you would very seldom ever have to increase or decrease your tire pressure. FYI, for every 1000 feet of elevation gain or loss you will have a pressure differential of .47 psi. Typically when you change elevation by 1000 feet you would loose or gain some temperature so there is a slight compensation between the two.

About 99% of us drive in and ask for new tires then go sit in the waiting room. No telling what is going on behind the scenes.

Happy to hear you are plugged....er running again.

If it is the motor and you order one make sure it is the same as yours regarding "left"/"right" hand. A picture is worth a thousand words. Amazon has Kwikee motors. Saw one there the other day searching around for $82. I'll be home tomorrow and if you remind me I can give you the information on where I purchased my motor.

Just about any RV shop will carry them as do Wallmart. Just make sure you get the size for your tires. My tire covers are for 22" and I picked them up at the RV shop.

The rated speed is the specifications the Mfg places on the tire that assures it will perform as they state. Example: Past the rated speed traction could be a problem.

Isn't the speed rating the maximum speed that the manufacturer has verified that the tire will perform as specified. Anything over that is a risk. Example would be surface traction. I'm limited to 65 towing by car manufacturer recommendation.

Typically there is a series run of outlets to each GFCI. If the polarity is reversed the GFCI will trip. In a GFCI circuit the Hot has to go to the hot lug of each receptacle in series. Looking at the recepticle there are two upright slots and a round slot, round being ground. The larger of the vertical slots is the "neutral" line and the other is the "hot" line. The electricity flows from "hot" to "neutral." If there is any imbalance of the flow the GFCI will trip. It doesn't take much to trip a GFCI. If plugging into the GFCI receptacle provides voltage then the circuit is complete then I would think that there is a possible exception of an open circuit in the series. I'm not an electrician so whatever I say may be refuted.

Check the wiring at the culprit outlet. It is possible that one leg of the wire came off the screw. After all, we are a rolling earthquake going down the highway. Or the wire could have broken, blah, blah - I'd start by checking that outlet wiring by taking the outlet plate off and eyeballing it. It could be the other end of that wire also. Just thinking out loud.

On a recent call to Cummins (my engine type) the service rep stated that running bio-diesel will require more periodic filter changes and the first change will shoe deposits that the bio-diesel has cleaned out and the first change may have to be done sooner. So without saying bio-diesel is bad he said that it would be better to find plain old #2 diesel. I'm confused - but that is not unusual.

I had a '69 Plymouth that gave me a fit with alternator reading. Took it apart and one of the four diodes was not soldered on one post. Soldered it an all worked well. Yep! Happens from the great craftsmen building the items.

No, not the hot air but the way one has to hold it to make things work correctly.

Keon, there is a wealth of information on the America's Independent Truckers Association web site. Plan your route, check the web site. Also, watch for the yellow warning signs. I use the Garman 760 LMT GPS system and it is designed for RV or cars.

We all understand that manufactures produce products that work in different ways. The manual tells a lot but it doesn't tell everything. An example of that for my RV is that the manual does not state it has a Trik-L-Charge, so that when plugged in both service and house batteries are maintained. That trickle charge voltage is around 2 amp or less as needed. I found out that information by talking to the manufacturer. Another thing I found out was that my step, Kwikee in my case, had a continuous current draw using a current limiting switch. For a couple months I would return to my storage area to find my service batteries low in voltage. The manufacture service center advised to turn the step to the "off" position because current draw of the step along with the other electronic components were more than the solar or trickle charger could support. After turning the step off when I put it in storage I never had another problem with the batteries going to a low voltage. So give it a try, turn off the step and see if it holds a charge.

Happy to hear you finally are holding your mouth right!

This is in reference to Cummins, San Antonio, TX. Checking in today at the camp ground, went to start and RV is dead. All the dash light lit up but just a click click to start the engine. Even with the Battery Boost - no go. Called Cummins, Talked with Rachel and then Joe. They were exceptional in finding my battery cranking amps and dispatching their technician Banyon to my camp ground. Before Banyon installed the new batteries he checked the voltage to the starter and it showed 3 volts when trying to crank the engine. He replace the batteries and viola - engine power. If Cummins San Antonio is as efficient and effective with all their customers then they are the preferred service for this RV owner. If anyone is having problems with a Cummins product in San Antonio I would highly recommend them. Interesting to note that while on the road last week the Fuel Econ on the dash automatically reset to 0 while traveling down the highway and then starting to count the MPG again. Today when I started out the Fuel Econ was at ---- and then started counting MPG. I'm going to watch what happens on my way home in a week to see if the dead cell was the culprit causing that.

More likely to damage the car than the tow bar as the wheels will turn in the opposite direction of the intended turn damaging the front end steering system.

Thanks Bill.

I use a realtor lock box for RV door access keys. DW doesn't like to carry heavy objects in her purse so many a time she puts here set in the glove box of the TOAD. The TOAD has key-less entry and we can get in anytime for the keys from the door panel entry buttons.

A little RTV sealant will help protect against rub around that hole.

My RV did not come with a satellite dish/dome so I purchesed the Winegard Carryout. It has the same limitations as any dome, dish - full HD 1 satellite at a time. Direct - 1 satellite and no HD. The nice thing about it is that when I am parked under trees, as I am now, I can find an opening up to 50 feet in any direction. The carryout is smaller than a lot of dome antenna but the only time I loose a signal is during very heavy rains. Light rain and dew moisture does not have an affect on it even at 30-40% signal strength. I would like a traveler and it is sometime in the future. One problem with having the traveler is that I presently have only one satellite line coming into the RV. In order to have the full functionality of the traveler a second line would somehow need to be run. One dealer said hole over the recieve location through the roof. I don't like that idea so any suggestions are appreciated.

See my post. You don't have to spend hundreds of $$ for a step motor when they are available for less than $80.

Check with some of the other manufacturers, like Demco that has them up through 2015 for your model. They may have 2016, worth the call. Check with the other tow bar companies. If you can get another hole drilled in the light fixture it should be the same for installing a separate light system and no diodes needed.

No, two pane laminate is a continuous piece so the conduction through the glass is okay. With the dual pane the air gap keeps the conductivity down considerably. Just for the heck of it I set up the through the glass on my side widow. I'm lucky to get out a 1/4 mile or so down the road.

The OEM manual that cam with my RV states that there may be times when water stands on the topper. They suggest raising one side of the RV before retracting the slide. Well, that works but you need to stop and let the water drain a couple times when retracting. Works for me 'cuz I'm lazy to tighten the spring and to cheap to pay to have it done. I would think that since the manual says what to do that they properly tightened the spring but realize it will still do it. Funny, it's only the 12Ft slide and not the 23Ft slide.