wayne77590

Herman, one has to be careful as "Polymer" wet coat is different then Auto wet coat. Years ago Walmart sold a kit with the Mr. Clean logo on it. It came with a soap that had polymers in it and a built in sprayer in the nozzle. One position of, one position jet stream for wetting with soap and rinsing, and one position for final spray. The final spray went through an ionizer and produced some very soft water and there was no reason for drying. It worked great, then Proctor and Gamble stopped making the soap and the ion filter. I really like the product and it did a superb job cleaning. When they stopped making it I searched for the soap and filters. Filters could not be found and a 16 oz bottle of soap was going for $94....no way Jose! I have since purchased the Washwaxall kit and it is expensive for the kit but well worth then investment. The deluxe mop pole is wonderful and reaches to 14 feet with the push of a button and a slide of the hand. Here is where I ordered my kit from but there may be less expensive places, this is the company, Washwaxall I purchased the "Mop Kit. Internet Special." with bug scrubber.

I have the engine heat for hot water and about 75 miles down the road I have HOT water. When we are at a site I plug in and use electric. Sometime if DW forgets (Notice it is DW that forgets) to run on the hot water electric switch we will turn t on and the propane at the same time. Takes only a few minutes to heat the water.

In case anyone needs Dually Valves the link is in this line. They are made especially for RV's (And other vehicles). I bought a set for my RV and it is the better thing I have done.

John, try Amazon

I use 2 x 10's with 3/4" plywood attached as a "crack holder." I have had the same set for 9 years and just recently on of the 2 x 10's under the plywood split and the wood screws have rusted so it is time to replace them. Plywood is very pliable and will keep the 2 x 10 from pulling apart if it splits. Time for me to get some new ones. I carry 6 pieces of 2 x 10's with plywood tops. Four are 16 inches long with 45˚ beveled end and 2 are 12 inches long. The 12's can be laid on top so there is an easy transition rolling up on the wood.

There is about 8 inches of rubber touching the road on each tire. That is not a lot of "safety" if one of them is to go flat. I have a realization that pulling out of an area I can pick up any debris that could puncture a tire. Whether it is a slow leak or a quick one a TPMS will alert me very quickly if the air pressure drops below my setting for "to low." One time in the toad and at night I ran over a rubber bungee with those "S" hooks on the end and the hook penetrated the tire. It was a pretty quick loss of air pressure. I sure hope that never happens in the MH and I know that the TPMS will give me quick warning. It also gives me a great peace of mind. Driving any distance with a rear dual at a low pressure will most likely cause the other dual to be overloaded and that is just extra $$ for two new tires.

....and they should be checked first thing in the morning before the sun gets to them. It is amazing what a few minutes of sun can raise the tire temperature. Also, consider a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). My early years I checked every morning before a departure. Not difficult but time consuming a few extra minutes. Then thought prevailed and I wondered what was happening going down the road. TPMS gives a great piece of mind. Turn it on when you are getting ready to go and within about 5 minutes all your tires are reading pressure and temperature. I think that those of us who have them are glad we took the step and made the investment.

I stopped using the bungee cord and just pull the covers over and let them hang. So far so good but did have one blow off during a heavy wind. Put it back on and it stayed. I also have trouble getting these big hands over the top of the tire but I do have a solution. First I push as much of the fabric over the top of the tire that I can, then DW uses her small hands to finish the job. Works for me, but then she cleans the roof of the MH 'cause she doesn't trust me up there. I also have some mesh tire protectors that are held in place by suction cups. The work fine but high winds do have an effect on them and they are a pain to roll up and store. I like the Magna Shade ones in the video and Roger and Clare are wonderful to work with. I may go that route.

I have basement air/heat and the heat pump works great. If there is a great differential the propane heater will kick on to help the heat pump and once ambient is reached between the two of them the propane shuts off and the heat pump takes over. Works well, knock on wood for the basement ac/heat.

For every 10˚ of temperature change you will loose or gain 2%, so let's say your tires are set for 100 psi. At 40˚ temperature drop you would loos 8% equaling 92 PSI. If your minimum pressure is 92 or above for your load rating you will be okay, so set a fudge factor when setting tire pressure to anticipate gain or loss of pressure. Since you will be increasing temperature by 40˚ from 100 psi your tire pressure would be 108 degrees. If that pressure is within the manufacturer's recommended maximum pressure you will be okay. That is where the fudge factor comes in. If you have tires rated at 110 psi and you minimum pressure for your load is 92 psi setting to 100 psi would mean that you would very seldom ever have to increase or decrease your tire pressure. FYI, for every 1000 feet of elevation gain or loss you will have a pressure differential of .47 psi. Typically when you change elevation by 1000 feet you would loose or gain some temperature so there is a slight compensation between the two.

About 99% of us drive in and ask for new tires then go sit in the waiting room. No telling what is going on behind the scenes.

Happy to hear you are plugged....er running again.

If it is the motor and you order one make sure it is the same as yours regarding "left"/"right" hand. A picture is worth a thousand words. Amazon has Kwikee motors. Saw one there the other day searching around for $82. I'll be home tomorrow and if you remind me I can give you the information on where I purchased my motor.

Just about any RV shop will carry them as do Wallmart. Just make sure you get the size for your tires. My tire covers are for 22" and I picked them up at the RV shop.

The rated speed is the specifications the Mfg places on the tire that assures it will perform as they state. Example: Past the rated speed traction could be a problem.

Isn't the speed rating the maximum speed that the manufacturer has verified that the tire will perform as specified. Anything over that is a risk. Example would be surface traction. I'm limited to 65 towing by car manufacturer recommendation.

Typically there is a series run of outlets to each GFCI. If the polarity is reversed the GFCI will trip. In a GFCI circuit the Hot has to go to the hot lug of each receptacle in series. Looking at the recepticle there are two upright slots and a round slot, round being ground. The larger of the vertical slots is the "neutral" line and the other is the "hot" line. The electricity flows from "hot" to "neutral." If there is any imbalance of the flow the GFCI will trip. It doesn't take much to trip a GFCI. If plugging into the GFCI receptacle provides voltage then the circuit is complete then I would think that there is a possible exception of an open circuit in the series. I'm not an electrician so whatever I say may be refuted.

Check the wiring at the culprit outlet. It is possible that one leg of the wire came off the screw. After all, we are a rolling earthquake going down the highway. Or the wire could have broken, blah, blah - I'd start by checking that outlet wiring by taking the outlet plate off and eyeballing it. It could be the other end of that wire also. Just thinking out loud.

On a recent call to Cummins (my engine type) the service rep stated that running bio-diesel will require more periodic filter changes and the first change will shoe deposits that the bio-diesel has cleaned out and the first change may have to be done sooner. So without saying bio-diesel is bad he said that it would be better to find plain old #2 diesel. I'm confused - but that is not unusual.

I had a '69 Plymouth that gave me a fit with alternator reading. Took it apart and one of the four diodes was not soldered on one post. Soldered it an all worked well. Yep! Happens from the great craftsmen building the items.

No, not the hot air but the way one has to hold it to make things work correctly.

Keon, there is a wealth of information on the America's Independent Truckers Association web site. Plan your route, check the web site. Also, watch for the yellow warning signs. I use the Garman 760 LMT GPS system and it is designed for RV or cars.

We all understand that manufactures produce products that work in different ways. The manual tells a lot but it doesn't tell everything. An example of that for my RV is that the manual does not state it has a Trik-L-Charge, so that when plugged in both service and house batteries are maintained. That trickle charge voltage is around 2 amp or less as needed. I found out that information by talking to the manufacturer. Another thing I found out was that my step, Kwikee in my case, had a continuous current draw using a current limiting switch. For a couple months I would return to my storage area to find my service batteries low in voltage. The manufacture service center advised to turn the step to the "off" position because current draw of the step along with the other electronic components were more than the solar or trickle charger could support. After turning the step off when I put it in storage I never had another problem with the batteries going to a low voltage. So give it a try, turn off the step and see if it holds a charge.

Happy to hear you finally are holding your mouth right!

This is in reference to Cummins, San Antonio, TX. Checking in today at the camp ground, went to start and RV is dead. All the dash light lit up but just a click click to start the engine. Even with the Battery Boost - no go. Called Cummins, Talked with Rachel and then Joe. They were exceptional in finding my battery cranking amps and dispatching their technician Banyon to my camp ground. Before Banyon installed the new batteries he checked the voltage to the starter and it showed 3 volts when trying to crank the engine. He replace the batteries and viola - engine power. If Cummins San Antonio is as efficient and effective with all their customers then they are the preferred service for this RV owner. If anyone is having problems with a Cummins product in San Antonio I would highly recommend them. Interesting to note that while on the road last week the Fuel Econ on the dash automatically reset to 0 while traveling down the highway and then starting to count the MPG again. Today when I started out the Fuel Econ was at ---- and then started counting MPG. I'm going to watch what happens on my way home in a week to see if the dead cell was the culprit causing that.