wildebill308

Benny, Welcome to the wonderful world of trying to figure out how stuff works. Let me see if I can give a hand. When you are hooked up to water at the campground I would turn off the pump as long as the water preshure is high enough. (I highly recommend you get a water preshure regulator with a gage.) The lever in the picture should be (I think) in the "local supply" setting. The setting now should fill the freshwater tank. Make shure the valves on the "shower" are closed. This has to do with outher possible issues so don't worrey about it now. To flush the black tank hook the hose up to the fitting that says "sewer tank flush". I have a clear elbow in the drain line so I can see when clear water comes out. This generally only flushes the black tank. Make shure you turn the water back on at the campground spigot. Don't close the gate valve on the Black tank when flushing and walk away EVER. If the gray tank valve is open, close it before dumping the black tank. Recap, "How do I know if the city water is working and it's not coming out of my fresh water storage tank I can fill at home? " With the green valve in "local supply" turn off the pump and see if you have water preshure. "Do I need to use the water pump when I am hooked up to the campground water connection?" No, Not unless the preshure is very low. If it is you can fill your tank and use the onboard water pump. "What does the Local Supply mean?" Campground water supply. "I tried to flush my black tank out before we left but I could never get any water to come out of the black tank." If you have good water preshure at the campground the only thing I can think off is there is a check valve in the flush inlet to prevent back flow. it might be stuck. Not that hard to change or take out and verify if it is working. I hope I haven't confused you. If you have any questions just ask. Bill

Great! glad you got it sorted out. Bill

I am like Carl, I would try to buy before the particulate filters and after the introduction of DEF. The adding of DEF allowed the manufactuers to improve performance that had been dialed back for emission reasons. I have heard the DEF coaches are geting better milage. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Where in PA are you starting from? The only problem going south may be finding a place to stay the first night. Many campgrounds close for the season after Columbus day. I would make reservations so you know you have a place. "FL to TX in February" where in Texas? If you are headed for South Texas there shouldn't be a problem. Going North you may run into the same problem with campgrounds, so plan and call to be shure you can find a place. Bill

Well Bill, no it is not an exaggeration. While I did not keep as exacting records as you require. Perhaps I should keep a diary for you. While I don't travel full time I have stayed in over 35 campgrounds so far this year. In over 50% of them it required you "walk the hose" to drain it. Now if they were all like you have reported this wouldn't be necessary. You may continue to use whatever method that suites you. Bill

Ed, welcome to the forum. Here is something to look at. http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/newell_coach/2004--newell--45--P1269 or http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/foretravel/2013--ih45--45--P1266 or http://www.bus-stuff.com/2005Newell_Premium527.html There are many makes not mentioned. I had a friend last week while we were at a Bounder rally in Gettysburg PA take his bounder to town and came back with a 2018 Pace Arrow. From what I could see it looked like a nice coach. The full wall slide is amazing. FLOWERSS, welcome to the forum. Bill

Most campgrounds the opening to their sewer is high enough it doesn't create a problem leaving the gray valve open as the opening to the sewer being higher acts as a "P" trap. If it isn't you can run the sewer hose over a block of wood to create a "P" trap so no gases can get back into the tank. Bill

I would recommend Ernie Ekberg, talk to him. I don't know anyone who does a better job on floors. ernietex@yahoo.com. Bill

Are you talking about TCC? The best thing to do is call and talk to them. By the way welcome to the forum. Bill

Go read what I posted about CoPilot. Don't get the RV version as I hear about problems. I have had good luck with the base app. Just finished a 7 week trip with no problem. Bill

Yes anything that creates a vacuum/low pressure in the coach has the potential to drag oders you don't want into the coach. Bill

Traveling with the roof vents open will create a vacuum in the coach and tends to pull "vapors" from the holding tank's. Bill

I recommend you look at 5 Star tuners. http://5startuning.com/ Did you add a track bar? http://www.blueox.com/chassis-performance/tigertrak-track-bars/ Bill

Why people keep buying stand alone GPS for $$$ when you can get just as good program free or nearly free. Bill

While we all or almost all of us suffer from depreciation. That is a fixed cost and not to much you can do about it. Watching expenses on things we can control helps when we are running all over the country in buses that get anywhere from 5mpg to 8mpg. Go read what I posted earlier. I don't drive miles off the road looking for cheaper diesel but I do check ahead to see if it is cheaper or should I fill up now. I also shop for the best price on tires and outher maintenance items. Bill

Yes but have you cleaned the CAC and radiator? Did you read the advice on keeping your rpm up? Bill

Don't forget the possibility of water in the differential. Good luck with the settlement. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Will you be able to come to the Red River Rovers rally at The KOA in Durant OK the 18-22 before the FMCA 6 State rally? You are invited. Bill

Here is something in your price range if you could do used. http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/foretravel/2010--nimbus--45--C2010 Bill

Following on with what Herman said. Measure your door, I bet it is about 24". Find the measurements for the refrigerator installed. Compare them to the Samsung RF-18 "counter depth". This is a great replacement if it will fit. My refrig was in the slide and I lacked 4" of height. I ended up using a Sears that was the same cu foot as the Dometic. With the doors and hinges off it fit through the door with 1/4 in to spare. The delivery guys set it inside re installed the doors. I had to extend the floor of the refrig opening because it wasn't a counter depth unit. I added some trim to fill the rest of the opening. One outher thing, it didn't come with a icemaker and sears wanted about $245.00 to add the icemaker (parts +labor) I bought the same ice maker on Amazon for $45.00 and it took about 15 min to install it. Makes lots of ice. Bill

That sounds normal to me to. If they went flat in a couple of hours then I would be looking for the big leak. Bill

Wayne, Here is a good place to look. http://motorhomesoftexas.com/ or http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/diesel/diesel-motorhomes.php. Bill

I was there last year. We didn't have experience so we spent time on both the East and West sides. I would reserve a place outside the park and take the toad. Did you do the Red Bus Tours? I would not recommend taking your coach to St Mary. I did not like any of the RV parks on that side. On the West side don't forget to visit Kalispell or Whitefish. The key is to have a toad Bill

Understand your sentiment However if you did not drill and install a pyrometer in your exhaust before the turbo you don't have any kind of accurate EGT temps. Bill