kaypsmith

Beautiful rig, many HAPPY tails and trails. Have you named her yet?

Carl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's a secondhand dumper

I looked into buying a Ford Ranger recently, best choice was to find a 4 wheel drive version, either manual or automatic. I checked with several sources, including the truck manual, it seems to be good for towing 4 down, only have to put the transfer case into neutral, that was on the older ones without electronic transfer case.

Sorry Bill, I ain't eating that stuff, fish oil NOT, that's urban legend. It used to use LP for propellant, but now carbon dioxide. http://www.foodreference.com/html/facts-wd40-fish-oil.html Here is another tidbit of history on how it got it's name http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/history

If the foam rubber works, Walmart sells, and I'm sure others do as well, a foam tape, usually located in the winter insulation dept. It sticks very well,

Is it possible that you can read the values on the thermistor? Thermistors are a very common electronic part, if you can read the ohm value on the bugger, and the style of it, it should not be hard to track one down. Just pm me if I can help.

I have replaced many incandescent lights on the coach, and had no problems, I did not add any blocking diodes, so far no problems. There are many different ways to get the desired effect that will should work out for you. I personally like to order my lights for exterior as a complete unit, that way I have new inwards as well as new lens covers, but there are just an LED bulb replacement that will fit right into your 1156 and 3157 sockets, these replacements are designed with the led's positioned in a pattern that will reflect just fine off of your current reflectors. Since led's use 4.2 volts, you will find that they are designed with three led's in series with multiples paralleled so that no other resistive appliance is necessary to plug directly into a 12 volt circuit. Also, these guys are diode's and they must be plugged in correctly, ie. positive and negative properly polarized or they will not work, and one other little piece of advice is to not try to cut corners with the negative, a same length wire as the positive for negative is an absolute must for them to work correctly. You can use an electronic flasher to prevent hyperflashing, no additional wiring necessary, just replace the current flasher, its a timed circuit rather than resistive, Bill, Every good boy does fine= G cleff, good boys do fine always = F "LOL

Herman, likewise, Order of the Arrow, Eagle, and scoutmaster for 5 years, although I only have two daughters. Happy trails, Kay

Last time I took I-75 downtown Atlanta, was on a Saturday afternoon, left front tire went flat, "NEVER AGAIN". East or West 285 about 15 to 20 miles farther but either direction is better than I-75.

My observation over the years is that if you use the term RV Resort in your search, that you usually will come up with some very nice accommodations. Usually twice the price but this also enhances the probability of getting higher caliber neighbors. I can fully understand the smoldering campfire concern.

Joe, I have been using one just like the one in the video for 4 years now. Here is another alternative. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Sliding-Closet-or-Wardrobe-Door-Latch-Black-/151062045015?hash=item232bffe157:g:ATMAAMXQCgpRt1Xe&vxp=mtr Although I am well pleased with the one in the video, only difference, I placed mine at the top of the door.

If you pull the old VOM "volt ohm meter" out of the closet or tool box, each element has two leads that are plugged into the circuit board, set the meter to read ohms, with power disconnected, pull one lead from the circuit board then place one of the probes on the terminal that you unplugged and the other lead to the terminal that is the mate to the corresponding element. Read the ohm meter for resistance, "0" = no resistance, or dead short, this will blow a fuse. If it shows no reading, or very high resistance, then the element is literally burned out, and has become open, this condition can not heat, thus replacement is necessary. The element if good will have a relatively low reading, so look for this condition in determining if both elements need replacing. Most control boards will not allow only one element to function. Also if the reading produces an open reading on either elements, it may be possible that one of the leads coming away from the element has broken, if this the case, I would still replace the element instead of trying to patch the broken wire.

Take a look at this Epson WF-100 portable printer if you are looking for small. https://www.amazon.com/Epson-WorkForce-WF-100-Wireless-Refurbished/dp/B01F9PWT7M/ref=pd_pgd_B00NV9LL9Q_B01F9PWT7M?pf_rd_p=2498087902&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NV9LL9Q&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=NSAQ64BK4TNNTCAZ8V1P

For informational purposes related to the OP, there is a waterless p/s trap available now. This of course eliminates the slosh/siphon action. I have installed them in my coach and am well pleased with the results. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterless-RV-Sink-Trap-1-1-2-FAST-FREE-SAME-DAY-FREE-SHIPPING-/222138540281?hash=item33b87d20f9:g:h4oAAOSwVyRXT7tS&vxp=mtr There are other sources. Also please note that it can be installed vertical or horizontal, making more room under the sink or vanity. The kit comes with reducers making it usable on 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 plumbing.

If the air filter needs cleaning on one of my units, I will sometimes have a drip.

Carl, a nice flip cover over that switch might be an easy answer for you, the dog brushing against it or accidentally touching should not affect it this way.

Carl, the one piece windshields as far as I know are glued in. The older style two piece, and not all of them are gasket set, most of the newer coaches are adhesive set. As for the windshield getting replaced, if you have comprehensive insurance, that should cover the windshield except for any deductibles associated with your insurance. I don't know about your state, but Florida does not allow the insurance companies in their state to charge a deductible, you can call your agent for what it will entail. Although most companies that do charge a deductible, the comprehensive portion is usually half of your collision deductible. Hope you can get that taken care of, and again Happy Fourth of July, what's left of it. Just one other thought, if you do have collision ins., I would call them first for options, glass breakage doesn't usually count against your use of insurance and cause it to go up in price.

Actually this type windshield gasket does NOT have adhesive holding the glass in place. I usually use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning both the grove and the strip then push back into place. If you want to use an adhesive, black or clear silicone rtv sealant over the strip, not in it, works pretty well. Like the old Brylcreme advertisement, "just a little dab will do ya!", I usually will use a real small bead then smooth it with a finger tip.

I know how air brakes work, thanks for reminding me. But for every leak, that means it will take that much longer for air pressure to build, mine will not release before it reaches 90 psi, and the buzzer wont stop buzzing before 110. All that means that much time before I can start to move, and I really don't like annoying the neighbors any longer than necessary. Also with the new hearing aids the continual hissing sound is especially annoying. For every action there is a reaction, likewise for every inaction there is a reaction, for these reasons, that calls for action.

Some of us depend on air brakes also, it can become a precious commodity, when this happens a little can go a long way.

Tireman9, your post reminds me of my old 1966 T-Bird, no 8 plug went unchanged until I finally raised the carpet under the brake pedal and used a smoke wrench to cut a hole, then made it a removable plate. Back then we had to change plugs every ten thousand and the points and condenser every five. Good old days, "HUMPTH"!

Thanks Marconi and Armstrong for introducing us to the wonderful world of RFI. Happy FOURTH OF JULY WEEKEND to all.

Last time that happened to my coach, one exhaust pipe from the right manifold cracked, it looked fine, but when revved up the crack would open up, causing lack of boost. Just something else to look for in case.

Carl, I purchased a really good one at Costco, solar charged, and super bright. Too large to mount permanently, I mounted mine on an aluminum extension flag pole and carry it in a basement bay.

Yup, I was still in the middle of my post when the IT guy here said stop now router is about to reboot.