kaypsmith

Good news is the Samsung that you chose is only 3.9 amp maximum draw, which means that it can be run on an existing circuit pretty comfortably. The bathroom circuit should be gfci, and downstream on the gfci circuit sometimes is not a good idea for a refrigerator, as the capacitor start motor on the compressor often causes enough delay that the gfci will trip, not from overcurrent, but from the delay caused by the capacitor. If using the bathroom circuit, be sure to wire in before the gfci outlets.

I like Creekside, been using them twice yearly for last seven years.

2005 models were pre LED monitors, they were commonly called LCD display, the LED versions are still LCD but use led for lighting the screen. The older LCD uses a neon type backlight which uses a system similar to a ballast on a fluorescent light. Sometimes the bulb will go out and sometimes the "ballast". Anyway, there probably is a replacement screen for your unit. Hope Monaco can point you to the right source. Happy Holidays, Kay

Congratulations Ray, looks good!

The Samsung fridge that you chose is identical to mine. I installed it three years ago in my coach. It has served very well, separate temp controls and holds exactly the set temp. Also, I run it on a modified wave form inverter, and it doesn't mind at all. Of course, if you have a pure sine wave, will work equally well. The icemaker took two days before it started making ice, but was on the pump, once it started was fine, I tell you this because if I installed again, I would make sure it was on regular water source next time.

Aquahot is being used a lot, it is diesel fired, and uses 12 volt for pump and blowers. Although LP gas is still a viable source for the furnace. I built my coach 3 years ago, and still installed a gas stove, because I like the ability to cook on gas when boondocking.

With campgrounds going to 50 amp service, which is 50 per 120 volt leg, and that equates to 100 amp total. Now with house type refrigerators which a few years ago required 12 or more amps, some of the newer ones using less than 4 amps today, certainly is more friendly to the usage of the current now available. Also the house type fridge requires no vent through the roof, and no chimney for insects to clog up. And as mentioned by others the induction cook tops use far less energy, and are cleaner to use than gas. This is just a few reasons for the trend

If the surge protector has all the proper checks, ie., checks L1 and L2, for faults such as overvoltage, reversed polarity, open grounds, then I would agree with the previous owner. The device that Brett mentioned would for those who do not have the test ability already installed. And as others mentioned on the forum, have their own means for testing. Personally I use a multimeter (volt ohm meter), but I have used this and other devices for over 55 years, and am comfortable with my method. Welcome to the forum, and hope you have many happy trails, and tales!

A search on e-bay with your info brought up several choices, hopefully a good one.

For locking purposes, a bicycle cable lock made of stainless cable works very well, regular bolt cutters won't even cut the cable.

Good work Rich, I lost boost about 85 miles from home back in July. Limped in, and found the pipe between the left manifold and the Y, just before the turbo had broken in half. Took several hours but was fortunate to get it replaced myself. Parts, about $350.00.

Looks like a good product if you don't want to, or do not know how to use a vom. Thanks for the link Brett!! A good investment for those who do not understand electricity, and the detriments of reversed polarity, and open grounds.

Can you take pictures of the affected areas, showing where they are located, for the group. There are several options that come to mind, but size and location will offer more sugestions.

Thanks for the replies, hope not the 10's. I did google, but I like real life data. I am also hoping for a milder winter than last one was. Kay

I will be driving my coach to Houston TX, in mid January for business purposes. I have not been in that area in January before, and I'm wondering what average temperature to expect, and what conditions that I should be prepared for. I was hoping for spring, but unless progress changes, it will be mid winter. Thanks, Kay

If the front wheels lock with the key not in the on position, I would recommend a dolly with built in swivel. I prefer surge brakes because of the simplicity, no need for electric brake wiring. Of course this only matter of opinion.

Have you checked on another cg 50 amp? I would first try another 50 amp service, if that isn't the problem, start verifying all grounding before and after entry to coach. Could be as simple as a loose ground lug somewhere. Good luck chasing it!

Here is what Cummins/Onan has to say. I agree with Herman, oil changes at correct intervals is utmost. And also with Brett Rotella T in almost anything is good, never thought of good diesel oil's as being foaming, only that low ash is essential for diesel use. The following is from Cummins/Onan. Hope not to break any Rules on the forum. Gasoline Engine Oil Quality – Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy. Diesel Engine Oil Quality – Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: CF, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 or CJ-4 where CJ-4 is currently the highest quality available. The use of synthetic oil is not recommended. The use of oil meeting API performance category CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 or CI-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.5% or CJ-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.0015% is not recommended as oil service is negatively impacted. Oil Viscosities – Use the following chart to select correct viscosity grades for expected ambient temperature range. 32° 10° 0° 100° 100° 100° -20° -20°F SAE-30 Viscosity Grades 15W-40 10W-30 10W-40 0 20 40 60 80 100°F 5W-30 50° NOTE: Multi-grade oils (such as SAE 15W-40) are recommended for year-round use in Cummins Onan liquid-cooled engines, or as a good all-season oil for air-cooled engines. NOTE: SAE-30 is the preferred summer grade for optimum oil consumption control in Cummins Onan air-cooled engines. Coolant Recommendations

Could be a cracked flange where the p trap connects to the strainer under the shower pan.

Previous post should have read Page and 27, 27 has the oil ratings for both gas and diesel Onan generators.

http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/rv/f-1123.pdf Here is a good reference you, page 26 and deal with correct oil for Onan generators

Actually, one can use the brake light signal to trigger a relay that can use a high enough current to work the electric brakes in most cases. Some use electronic lighting, and would have to be careful with that circuit. A call to the manufacturer of your coach, should be able to answer if your coach is already wired for electric brakes.

Cummings and Cat engines are both very good engines. The biggest drawback for cat in a motor coach is there are fewer repair facilities that are equipped to repair in the coach.<br />Many stories are that the repair facility did not leave the inside of the coach as clean as the owners would not like them to. Not in disregard to Cat, as they are very good engines.<br />Not many motor coaches use Detroit, the C60 is also a very good engine

Carbon buildup is mostly unseen. With no power on the coach, generator or shore power, one can use a piece of emorycloth,or sandpaper, 400 grit or higher and lightly sand both sides of the contacts, if they are accessible. Just a temporary fix, but will get you going till a replacement is available.

I bought 2 quartz heaters at family dollar two years ago, put one in the plumbing bay, set to the lowest setting, works well. The engine is old 6v92 detroit, and block heater has failed, put the second under the oilpan, ambient temp at 6am was 12, cranked on third turn.