kaypsmith

I got my email about a month ago. I think it is a great idea, gives us a break, and an opportunity for FMCA to stay afloat (most importantly). Thank you FMCA officers!

I've used POR15 for many years, but only on metal surfaces. It does work great on metal, I have never seen a fiberglass or rubber roof rust, yes I have seen chalking (oxidation)but not rust, I thought that rust was oxidation of iron or a byproduct thereof. Maybe I have learned something new?

Last trip out, I wished that I had a bead setter with me also. 120 miles on the second roughest interstate that i have ever driven on, my outside right drive axel tire went flat overnight at the campground in Chattanooga Tn.. I called AAA and asked for a over the road tire truck to air the tire up. An hour later a mini van appeared up with a 12 volt air pump. I laughed at the poor guy and told him that his equipment was inadequate. He got on the phone then came back to tell me that a real tire truck was on the way. Another hour passed and another no-show. I called someone myself and within 30 minutes a real tire truck appeared with a bead setter, which was needed. This team aired the tire within ten minutes and checked for leaks, which there was one. The rough road has caused the brass tire stem to beat against the rim causing a small hole to wear into that stem. Coach was never jacked up but air removed from the tire, tire broke down right on the coach, valve stem replaced then re aired the tire. Another time a spare was not needed but was there just in case.

If nothing else helps, you might try one of these. https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-Screen-Door-Turnbuckle/dp/B003B52ZR2

I use this size also, but last four are 315/80/22.5, the fit spacings are perfect.

Depends on what you want to do with it as to how much bandwidth you will need. Video streaming, especially in HD takes a lot of bandwidth, checking the internet 10 times a day and short messages takes very little. A wifi camera can be set up to use a very small amount if you limit frames per second to 4 to 6, a whole lot more if you allow 60 fps. You can log into the jetpack at any given moment to see how much has been used since last billing, then figure how to use more or less to get the most per month without going over your limits.

Herman, I have 1/2 inch 24 volt battery Kobalt from Lowes impact, I also have a 1 inch air impact, the battery impact will remove anything the the air will remove, I reported theis on the forum two years ago. The battery operated one is still going strong, never even try to use the air anymore.

Here is another that you may try if not already found. http://www.classictruck.com/product/1973_1987_Taillight_housing_and_lens_assembly_TLA73FRM/1973-80_Trucks_Lighting-Taillight_Items?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoaiehJC56wIVATiGCh2uwATJEAQYAyABEgJWQvD_BwE

With a bus conversion, I have no problem because there is a spare tire carrier behind the front bumper, which folds down just for access to the spare. But like Joe, on an older MH, I carried it in a basement compartment, and placed other objects within the tire cavity to maximize space. If one had some type of a hoist (gin pole) that could be attached to the ladder when needed, a tire on the roof placed far enough away from the edges will not hardly be seen unless you happen to be above the roof (on a bridge, or upstairs of a building). I do carry a spare tire, not rim, although my tires are a popular truck tire size and can be found at most truck stops.

I carry two, one in the engine area, and the other in the galley(mid section). Kidde and First Alert brands come to mind, there are several brands out there. I buy new ones about every four years. Last two were on sale at Costco, cost $15.00 each. Any good suppression system other than water should work fine. Only reason not to use water is in case of an electrical fire.

Nearly all wiper blades have the hole built onto them, my coach uses a shoulder bolt with acorn nut, and the hole is slightly too small, when this happens I simply use a drill with bit to correct the size of the hole.🙂

How did you fix it, replaced or bumped on the motor and it went back to work? Is the fan motor getting 12 volts now?

Sounds like a fuse/circuit breaker between house batteries may be blown or tripped. Or a relay may not working.

Carl has followed many of my post's about black for some time now. Black is the only natural color that UV rays will not destroy, this is fact. When did you ever see a utility company use any other color than black wire outdoors. Now with all this said, there are additives that can be added to paint that will prevent the painted colors not be as susceptible to UV destroying them. So white does reflect while black does not but without additives the paint will chalk up and cause the white streaks that you see on the sides of RV's. So to solve this problem one can make sure that the white sealant does incorporate an appropriate UV protective additive. You asked, and I hope that this helps to understand the statement better. By the way, white is used at sea even on outside wires and antenna's, because the salt in the air and UV rays act just like chlorine and will destroy black colored wires and the like in these conditions. Just for fun, lay a black colored poly rope and several other colors including white in a location that has lots of sun on most days and see which color survives longer. I have used black rope on my antenna's over the years as well as other colors, black is still in use, all other colors 6 to 18 months and they are so frayed that they only fall apart.

Sorry I missed the fact that it is a hinged door, not a slider, looks are deceiving. As Herman said, if there are screws then a good re-tightening should help, but many of these type doors have a molded type door hinge. People getting in and out of the shower tend to lean downward while holding on to the door causing it to sag over a period of time. Easiest fix is to open the door until it is 90% to the opening, use a small wedge, wood works well, and gently push and tap the wedge under the further end from the opening, may take several attempts to spring the hinge pin in the opposite direction, please be gentle while doing this, a little goes a long way.

Or may just need readjustment.Many look like this, simply loosen the screw on wheel and slide the roller downward to raise the door, then re-tighten the screw.

Fuller full crystal window and screen cleaner works well.

Start by checking voltage at other plugins at your location, not in the RV. What gauge wire is the cord that you are hooking the RV to the plug? 50 amp needs to be 6 gauge for the two hots and neutral 8 is ok for ground. If wiring is correct and voltage before the plugged cord to RV is ok, then an inspection of the box that you are plugged into needs to be checked for bad possible connection, and for proper wire size feeding the box, if too small there can cause problem as described also. If all these are ok, check to make sure the AC's are not pulling more than their fair share, most roof airs only pull a maximum of 12 to 15 amps, and usually will trip a breaker if they pull more. Also the breaker that fees the 50 amp may have loose wires or may not be properly seated.

Here is a listing on ebay, sure hope you find one for less than this one. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=+DAF121252590c+fan+motor&_sacat=0

In your case, I would simply either use a 50 to 30 dogbone, or the 50 to 30 adapter, plug your existing RV cable into it and forget it, much cheaper and less mess.

This is why I suggested using 6 gauge wire, it will satisfy the concern about the wire being too small for 50 amp, and the RV is already 30 amp and will only have a 30 amp main breaker to take care of the RV. And yes those dogbones are sold for their purpose and used many times without incident, if they were a problem, the manufacturers would be sued and production would cease. Here is one more remedy for you, use a CG style 50 amp shore power box and use this adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Plugrand-14-50P-Locking-Adapter，RV-Adapter/dp/B07RBTLVMH/ref=pd_lpo_23_img_2/137-4996575-8551336?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07RBTLVMH&pd_rd_r=f3067a3

I would try to find a hydraulic shop nearby, possibly they can rebuild or repair the hydraulic motor for you. I tried to cross reference the part for you but found none. Also check with salvage yards that might possibly have a good used one. How bad is the leak?

Ray what you say is true, but the OP is going from 50 to 30 not the other way, 50 amp to 30 amp, legs not tied together. 30 to 50, legs tied together, to be like a 50 amp, only 120 in phase with each other, assimilated 240, you can't run a 240 appliance, unlike true 240 volt, each leg out of phase, you can run a 240 volt appliance . The Op has a 30 amp RV, not a 50 amp. Above is the OP's question.

Well to give a short answer to your question, you can could acquire a 25 foot 6/3 or 6/2/ with 8 gauge ground wire, then add the correct female plug to one end (correctly wired), making sure that hot is to the correct location, neutral to correct location, and ground (green) to ground on the receptical. Now wire directly into the 50 amp box with the other end, you can attach the hot lead to either L1 or L2, both of these are only 120 +/-, then neutral to the neutral bus bar, and ground to the ground bus bar.

This part of your statement is incorrect, a 50 amp breaker @240 volts is 50 amps twice, one for each leg @ 120 volts each, therefore if you count the current, a 50 amp times two = 100 amps @ 120 volts. Just backing you up Richard.