kaypsmith

Bill, I was in the cabinet business earlier in life, I did a lot of antique restoration back then. Many of the moldings on that fine furniture was unable to find a match, and next to impossible to duplicate because a lot of it was handcarved, that's when I decided to duplicate it. Lots of fond memories from those days, and I still like to do those things as a hobby. I have made doors for different motorhomes during restoration. As long as I can find a pattern I can still duplicate it. Yes 17 oz is best but harder to find unless there is a boat repair/maker shop near. Lowes and Home Depot in my area have 12 oz available, it works ok usually need a third layer for more strength on larger projects.

Carl, before retiring from the IT industry, we set up monitors that cost $10,000.00 each, as many as twelve, and the stand to mount them on, cost $25,000.00.

Be sure to coat the saran wrap with the proper agent before applying the gel coat, then the epoxy after gel coat dries, work as many layers of fiberglass as needed, I usually use two, and of course epoxy between each layer then finish with last coat of epoxy. Saran wrap is only a name, you can get commercial wrap in much wider widths, usually find a place that wraps for shipping and most will give enough to do your job, be sure to use a cardboard core, or a large diameter pvc pipe to avoid unnecessary wrinkles for transportation.

Docj, T-Mobile has merged with Sprint since the link above, here is a newer map. https://www.pcmag.com/news/exclusive-here-is-t-mobiles-expanded-coverage-map

Just a little tip for using foam for a mold, cover the entire surface with Pam (cooking spray), then form Saran wrap over the surface, foam spray can now be shot directly onto the area, let dry, then remove the foam carefully. I've used plaster of paris and many other products, but the foam really works great.

Yep, this is best route, 120 miles less than going I-65 all the way to I-10, US 231 is 4 lane all the way, while passing through Birmingham, Al., blow the horn at me. Amen on avoiding Atlanta. Welcome to the forum!

I think that you are miscalling the wifi extender, what you really need to be looking for is a wifi router. If you are depending your phone for hotspot, then wireless router will work well for you, TPLink makes a very good line of low priced routers with load balancing capabilities. Load balancing is a means of using two or more inbound connections to gain access to the internet, the brand that I mentioned above can use up to four. Load balancing uses the connections and splits the outgoing and incoming signals between the multiple providers and makes their signals faster because you are using all signals simultaneously. Here is a youtube link helpful to watch.

I had a similar problem several years ago, turned out to be a ring tip connector that had managed for the wire to be broken where the wire was crimped to the ring tip. This wire was the wire connected to the fuse to the ECM. It would crank and run for a while then vibration would cause the wire to separate. This same thing can happen on a ground connector as well as a hot wire. If possible to pull an engine code, that will help pinpoint where to look.

If you could find a person that owns a coach with the same model, a mold could easily be made with great stuff spray foam then a fiberglass replacement would be easy to make. I have made duplicate parts for many years using this method.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=rv+exterior+trim&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=rv+exterior+trim I've bought hundreds of feet of it on ebay.

Here is an interesting read on foam insulation as a fire retardant. https://www.finehomebuilding.com/forum/dow-great-stuff-fireblock-watch-out I worked in a mobile home factory back in the 70's, we built many coaches using foam insulation in addition to the regular fiberglass bats, because it made R factor for colder climates. UL approved the use of the foam product because their test results concluded that it was an excellent product for fire retardation. Several months went by and it was discovered that a coach using foam insulation was easier to catch fire than one without it. UL was contacted and further testing was performed. Here is what found out with further testing. The initial test results were conducted with a Bunsen burner placed under a horizontal flat sheet of foam resisted up to 1800 degrees, the melting point of steel, and that is what UL posted as their results. With further testing because of complaints, the same foam sheet was stood vertical and flame was applied, the foam began to blaze at 240 degrees. UL paid the company that I worked for to recall all units that had left our facility with the enhanced insulation (foam) to be removed. I hope that this is not off subject, but I feel it is revelant to the OP question. I would not be afraid to use great stuff for your purpose, but I feel it important to know the facts.

This is the key to the statement. I live in Alabama and can only receive my local stations in my home area, although I have been able to receive, New York and Los Angles ABC, CBS and NBC, both at home and anywhere else that I travel, when this service is no longer allowed on June 1, 2020. As a result, I can still call and get whatever local market that I am located in sent to me. The channels listed were always there before so that we did not have to get switched as we travel, meaning that network shows on the major networks have been available to us. That is, or was a service available for travelers, and the law that allowed that to happen, the sunset to that law will expire, and congress has chosen not to extend it. If you live in any of those areas it will not affect your service at home, but will no longer be able to watch those channels while traveling out of those areas.

As Herman said, but you will need to determine which line goes to the engine and make sure it is connected to the outlet port of the switch.

Eric, what part of Florida is the park model in? I think is probably a good idea and commend you for thinking enough of your parents to care. I would recommend a good well cared for diesel pusher for what you are wanting to do. I would suggest about 2000 through 2007 model years both for value and for the fact that these years are pre DEF and much easier to maintain since you have no previous experience with a coach. Almost any brand that suits you and your needs, and as stated above most kinks have been ironed out by a previous owner especially on these models. Have someone that is experienced with motorhomes to help you make a decision about the purchase before blindly buying one. P.S. diesel units can stand longer periods of non driving than gas units, this the main reason that I recommend diesel over gas, diesel fuel does need biocides added for long periods, whereas gasoline with ethanol just doesn't sit around well.

Neutral and ground should never be connected within the RV, as Brett stated they are supposed to be connected at the CG main distribution panel, this is why I stated that you should see a direct short when testing the CG pedestal, he is correct that they are not connected at the pedestal but that short will show up as shorted on the pedestal. If they are shorted when you check the shore power cord, then there is a miswiring within the coach. If both are connected to the same metal box within RV, that is incorrect, everything between the CG main panel are considered to be sub connections, therefore the ground is to be isolated from the neutral, failure to adhere to this condition makes all appliances after the within the circuit to be a potential risk for a shocking experience, including the CG pedestal. Please refer to the link below for more clarificarion. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/149477/when-did-the-nec-code-start-to-require-the-separation-of-neutral-and-ground-bus

Joe, I went through the same actions last year, I replaced all 8 and it is almost a must to pull the rears, both drive and tag axel. Some of my bolts were so rusty that I used a smoke wrench to remove them. Hope yours are easier. By the way, I replaced all 8 shocks at the same time.

Looking at the 240 volt 50 amp plug, and naming it like you have, East West, that is L1 and L2, measurement across these two should read 240 if this is wired correctly. Now assuming that the plug is not upside down, the south position (straight blade) should be neutral, and you should read east to south 120 volts, and west to south should read 120 volts. The north position should be the only round connector and this one is frame ground, it will also read 120 east to north and 120 west to north if wired correctly. Neutral, south to north (frame ground) when testing your cord with an ohm meter should read open, if this is not correct, then there is a miswiring within your coach, but reading on the CG pedestal should read 0, or dead short, this is correct, and if it reads open then the CG pedestal is not wired correctly. Good luck, and according to your statement about CG pedestal, it is incorrectly wired. Glad you didn't plug in your coach, not only the skin of your coach would have been live, but everything electrical would probably have been toast.

Maybe the batteries are just aged out, and hopefully this is the case, but as I described the equalizer is operating within the two batteries even though the master shut off switch is disengaged, one battery just being a little lower, which can be caused by a weak cell. So load testing the batteries is a good thing to do. But if that checks out ok, or even if you replace the batteries and the parasitic drain keeps occurring, then I suggest that an equalizer switch cutoff will be in order. To test to see if the equalizer is the culprit, you can simply disconnect all three wires, making sure that you have labeled them, and if you do this, be sure to disconnect the ground first, then the other two in any order. I have several friends with these type coaches, MCI, Prevost, Gillig. and the old Silver Eagles, all of us do the equalizer disconnect when we are not plugged into shore power for more than a day or so. Yes the inverter will charge the chassis batteries, but remember the inverter is only 12 volt and will only charge one of the two batteries because of the way it is wired into the first battery, then the equalizer has to do it's work of bringing the second battery to the same charge level, thereby overworking the equalizer just trying to keep up, which will shorten the life of the equalizer, and those babies are not cheap to replace. Hope you enjoy your coach as much as we have ours. P.S. if you can always plug into shore power and not leave the coach for extended stays, the disconnect of the equalizer is not important, but there will be times that this cannot be done. I don't know which chassis batteries yours uses, I have two 8D's1400 CCA's, and they are not cheap to replace, so I baby them, and have gotten 8 plus years out of them in the past.

Actually, the tow bar can cause dreadful damage to the towed front end if the towbar is not correctly positioned. The bar should be as nearly level to the pavement on level ground as possible, ie. the ball on the coach should be the same number of inches from the ground as the tow points on the towed. Two inches either direction is all that I will allow on my vehicles. Too much rise in the towbar while towing will cause undue pressure on the towed front suspension, especially when climbing a grade. The incline of the bar the other way will cause not enough weight on the front of the towed which causes wobble in the toad. OP has not responded, so I hope he has found the correct answer to the problem.

Carl, that is a set of jumper cables that is always there to charge the house 12 volt house system when and if the generator is not running, like on a cool night or even in wintertime travel.

My MCI has a main disconnect switch (handle) on other side of wall from the batteries, this is the main disconnect switch for 24 volt chassis system. Now just above the batteries, there is a large black box, this is the equalizer, there is a 12 volt wire that connects to the first battery only, this wire is used to provide 12 volts to the headlamps and the ECM. I added a disconnect switch to that 12 volt wire, this will stop the equalizer from robbing from one battery to keep the other one equalized, this is what I had to do to stop the parasitic drain on my coach. Notice the picture below, just above the batteries the box that I spoke about, at first I would unscrew the attached wires, one is marked 12V the other 12V, when using the method the wire on the far left is a ground wire, that has to be removed first, this allows the other two to be removed without a spark. you will notice that I rerouted the attached wires to a heavy duty three wire range plug, I now simply unplug the plug from the recep to avoid the need to unscrew the nuts that hold the wires in place. just to the right of the shield in my coach is the factory installed disconnect, or handle that I spoke of earlier. These coaches were designed to stay on the road daily and were not equipped with a disconnect feature, this is why I added one. Using this method, I can let the coach sit for six months, then reconnect and the batteries never needs recharging for the coach to fire right up.

Not seeing any info on your coach, we will need info on the coach to give a good answer, but if your coach has yellow turn signals on the rear, you probably will need to install the device that converts the wiring from five wire to four wire. Take a look at this site for more information, https://www.etrailer.com/question-123251.html.

Nothing to do with state web site being updated. he HTTP 404, 404 Not Found, 404, Page Not Found, or Server Not Found error message is a Hypertext Transfer Protocol (HTTP) standard response code, in computer network communications, to indicate that the browser was able to communicate with a given server, but the server could not find what was requested.

Just so you know, the parking brake is the two cannisters on the drive axel only, no need to be concerned with the other wheels. Not completely correct, but in most cases true about which shoes stick.

I also have a MCI coach, I always use the battery disconnect when the coach is parked for more than 2 hours. These beasts are unlike other motorhomes, with a 24 volt chassis instead of a 12 volt as most factory built MH's are. There is an equalizer on board that is there to insure that both 12 volt batteries stay in sync, "equally charged" if one is lower that the other, the system robs current from the higher one to bring up the other one, causing there always to be a drain on both batteries. Since I know to disconnect the 24 volt system, I can leave both unattended up to 6 months, reconnect and the coach always cranks unless one of the batteries have gone bad. By the way, if you decide to add a battery maintainer instead of disconnection, you will need to add two maintainers, one for each battery, otherwise the equalization process will overwork using even more current, remember these are two 12 volt batteries in series, and a 24 volt battery maintainer is very expensive and very hard to find. In all likelihood the trace inverter is a 12 volt only system and only intended for the house charging system. By the way on my MCI everything to do with the chassis except the ECM and the headlights are 24 volt unless they have been converted, and most conversions for other lighting is LED and we always use 10/30 volt LED's meaning no resistors to burn out. Many of the Prevost's coaches use stacked running lights, two 12 volt in series stacked one on top of the other.