kaypsmith

Around here, this is a very true statement. LOL😆 And the funnier thing is the short female weighing 110# getting out of the 1 ton dually who really need a ladder to get in and out of the truck.

Somebody sure did some funny wiring, red in most cases indicate positive, and black normally is negative. Glad you were able to figure it out, just make sure that those red wires are attached to the chassis and not the generator/alternator. I haven't seen positive ground on anything except military vehicles/generators in years. Some of the pre 12 volt farm tractors (6 volt) used positive ground. LOL🙃

Tp-link makes a very good load balancing multi wan router, very inexpensive, and is capable of combining up to 4 incoming wan's (internet providers). https://www.amazon.com/SafeStream-TL-R600VPN-Broadband-throughput-Concurrent/dp/B007B60SCG/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi6L1npfd6wIVCr3ACh0JpgJHEAAYASAAEgL-DPD_BwE&hvadid=232554843091&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9012455&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10510855631575181003&hvtargid=kwd-360969681247&hydadcr=18040_9812732&keywords=tp+link+load+balancing+router&qid=1599692586&sr=8-2&tag=googhydr-20 You can find instructions in the router literature, or on youtube. And if you still need help, you can PM me. There are other brands available, but I have very good luck with these and they are less expensive than most. The key is load balancing, multi wan.

I enlarged your house battery picture, and as Herman said they are correctly wired. The engine starter battery as DD69 said is too small for the job. As Herman said you need to disconnect the engine battery and put a good charger on it to try to bring it up to maximum voltage (at least 12.8) rested, then have the battery checked with a reputable checker to determine if the battery is good. A bad cell in the battery will cause the alternator for the coach to falsely try to overcharge because the battery is not coming up as it should and will eventually ruin the alternator. Also though, a bad connection to the battery, either positive or ground, can cause the battery to not charge correctly. A bad connection can be at either end of the cable, not just the battery end, this is especially true on the ground connection.

https://www.staples.com/Mini-Binders-Binders/cat_CL167205/8scyw

Look under rv awnings, https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=rv+awnings&_sacat=0. I've had very good luck both adding and replacing awnings from there.

Foretravel, Newell, Prevost, MCI, and several others can be 45 feet. Anything over 40 feet is considered a big rig RV. https://www.big-rigs-rv.com/Home.html

Try copy and paste the number that tiffin gave you in ebay search line, brings up many replacements. These are complete assemblies, a good time to upgrade to LED.

If my memory serves me right, 2008 was the nightmare year for most RV manufacturers. Many went under because or the economic downturn. Gulf stream was noted for being a good product.

The compressor noise on the Coleman unit is not a problem, it is the fan noise. It sounds as if you are in a wind tunnel, the air outlet is entirely too small for the amount of air being circulated by the fan. With the DB app on my phone. the Carrier measures 53 db @ 10 ft away. The Coleman measures 83 @ 10 ft away. Both were on low cool.

I replaced one of my two Carrier air five with a Coleman Mach 8 last year because Carrier no longer makes RV AC's. The Coleman is three times as loud as the Carrier units, I hate it because of the noise, it does cool well, but the blower noise is awful even on low fan.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried all fan speeds including high? The blower switch has resistors on all settings except high, and if the resistors burn out the blower will not blow on the lower speeds. I'm assuming that you are referring to the dash air.

Florida is a good state, no income taxes, and lower priced RV tags. Property tax is about mid range in comparison to other states. This is not a suggestion, just a state to look at while comparing apples to oranges, and depending on your end goal.

The OP says that holding water is not a problem, The flush valve is not working! Either flush valve is bad or no water getting to the flush valve,

https://www.rvt.com/Mci-MCI-F3500-2001-Cullman-AL-ID9104399-UX175156 This is a 35 foot bus conversion to look at. They are great conversion buses, you can call, most have 400+ HP Detroits, and hardly anything can keep up. I know because I drive an MCI conversion, much older than this one.

Tire pressure will increase by 2 percent for every 10 degree temperature. 120 psi @ 70 degrees will increase by 6 percent just by checking again at 100 degrees, therefore just by going from 70 to 100 degrees the same tire will probably read 127.2 at 100 degrees. A number of things including just ambient temperature, temperature of pavement, and friction are all natural causes. Then you can add some heat generated by the braking system.

Not likely! Bad ride yes.

Is one of the instructions to place key in accessory mode? If yes, your battery will drain while being towed. You can a battery disconnect to the negative (black) wire, it does not need directly at the battery, can be located anywhere between the battery and wherever the ground is connected to the frame.

2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32 V Workhorse (gas) motorhome This is from OP's other post. After going back to the spec sheet for this coach, unless has been changed out, a converter/charger is correct. Yes there should be a current draw because all this device does is charge your batteries. I don't see why there would a reverse polarity to show up at the CG pedestal when the c/c is plugged up because nothing can change at the initial plug in, and no AC can come from any other source. Reverse polarity can only come from hot and neutral being reversed in an AC circuit.

When plugged into shore power, but with all circuit breakers off except to Converter/Charger, should my power panel show a steady 5 amp draw? A converter/charger is there to charge your batteries, so yes there probably will be a draw, depending on the rate of charge how much amp draw. Are the batteries being charged properly? Do you have a converter charger? These only charge your batteries. Or do you have an inverter/charger? These charge the 12 volt batteries/ or supply 120 volt to appliances upstream.

If all else fails, time to look for a circuit breaker, headlights are rarely fused. The circuit breakers are usually small square plugged directly into the fuse panel for chassis. These are after the headlight switch and will reactivate when cooled down unless bad.

Hope you have many happy taies and trails in the hobby, welcome again to the forum.

Be sure to check that the valve to the flush valve has not been turned off, DW did that to me one time by accident.🙂

Most likely these have both a circuit breaker and also a relay. If there is a short (hot to ground), then the circuit breaker will trip causing nothing to happen. If you have a bad switch the relay cant activate because no voltage to engage it. So the first place to check is the switch to make sure that you have voltage to the switch, then voltage away from the switch when in the on position. If no output from switch, bad switch, if no voltage to the switch then you must trace back to the battery source. If further help is needed, just ask, let us know what you find.

In most likely to be a ground otherwise it would blow a fuse in the event that it shorts to ground. But as CC said not all coach manufacturers wire things alike. Use a VOM (volt ohm meter) to check to see if it does become hot when trying to crank with the remote start. Have someone push the button while checking with the meter for 12 volts, if no power then, try holding it to ground to see if it does start the generator. Be sure to check for voltage first before grounding. Since it is a generator, there is a possibility that it is an AC neutral.