kaypsmith

If it is what it is screwed to, I use a thin piece of aluminum larger than the hole, attached with a new screw on each side of the current hole, then use a new sheet metal screw to attach the old panel. Of course I use flat head screws to attach the aluminum layover.

Good thing is, the red and blue are both Pex, freezing will not burst them, but the fittings are a different story. That spray foam that is shown in the picture could be used to insulate the pipes if sprayed further down to include those fittings. I make a carboard cover (form) with a small hole, use the pipe that comes with the spray foam to insert in the hole, then spray until the foam overflows. That black pipe is probably butyl, and is not forgiving in freezing conditions.

Peter, if the transmission is four speed Allison, most likely an HT740 in that model.

Netgear Nighthawk 1200AC is my favorite for out of the box functionality. It does do everything that you listed, if you are comfortable setting your parameters, you can do almost anything that a router is supposed to do including use as an access point. TP Link makes a very inexpensive router that can be set up for load balancing up to four WAN's.

Here is a good article about ST (special trailer) tires that may be helpful in understanding trailer tires. LT tires are actually designed for light truck and trailer use but have their limitations. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219

Be sure to check all chassis battery connections including the ground connections. I trust that you did hold for three seconds to reset any type breaker.

Most of those type lines have a release mechanism that you either push away or pull toward you to cause them to release. If yours is like this you may want to try using some light weight oil on the release to get the spring back to working.

Have you been near Lincoln Co., Nevada? Strange things seem to happen near area 51. Sorry for your misfortune, I sincerely hope that you find a solution.

It sure looks as if there is a restriction of some type happening, could be in the duct work, but I'm betting that there is a design flaw with the reversing valve design on this brand unit. Were it I, I would be looking for a different brand. Three strikes your out in my book.

That would depend on the tire and load rating. Most automotive tires have much lower sidewall pressure rating than an ST tire, automotive is rated for a much lower load and a higher speed rating, most are only 2 ply sidewall, while an ST rated tire has a higher load rating and a slower speed rating, usually 6 ply or higher. The best practice is to buy the correct tire, and drive according to the speed rating. If an ST tire it will have the correct max weight stamped and the pressure is set to match this, any weight up to this weight should be OK, if driven accordingly.

Great looking work Ernie!

I doubt that Goodyear had anything to do with putting those tires on that trailer, they don't build the trailers or choose the tires.

Carl, nothing beats stainless steel, if it gets too unsightly, 2000 grit sandpaper then polish with 4000 grit.

In most cases the windshield is covered under comprehensive, not collision, and most companies cover comprehensive at 50% of collision deductible. That is a question for your insurance company.

I've run Goodyear Wranglers on several trucks and now on my Jeep Wrangler, have had very good luck with them. I am surprised that a car hauler came with them on it as they are not designed to be used on a trailer. I would suggest that one should use an ST tire on any car hauler because of the number of plies on the sidewalls, I want even run automotive tires on a tow dolly, and especially on my car hauler. I started this yesterday before tireman9 had responded, but was called away a did not finish. I have re read the OP and saw that you were referring to Wrangler II, I can not find any reference to wrangler II to know if ST or not, so I agree with Roger that they do appear too aggressive for load bearing purpose.

We use a trail of Sulphur around the house to help deter snakes, works better than snake away.

Most likely with a side mount radiator, the fan is probably hydraulic, the faster the motor turns the faster the fan turns as a result. Dirty condenser core can cause high pressure in the system just like the dirty condenser in your home AC. The dash air in every motorhome is totally different than the bus air on our bus conversions, most are rotary compressors like on most cars, while the bus air are piston type compressors, mine is a 5 ton unit designed to cool the entire bus, while dash air is actually designed to cool only the front seats of a MH. I agree that steps must be taken to lower the pressure, my starting place would be to clean the condenser core and of course the radiator, and I agree that a new expansion valve and drier if the compressor is making that pressure. A typical MH only uses 3 to 5 # of refrigerant in the dash air. Many side mount radiator systems also have an electric fan as a backup, look for that as well.

I also like to use an ac disconnect box for this type of extension, less than 10 bucks at any box electrical store, Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace Hwdw., like you would use for air conditioner disconnect. Here is one at home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D27E|27-8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT._DEVICES|NA|PLA|71700000034238981|58700003943782709|92700031956831784&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9NbdBRCwARIsAPLsnFbihdnKxztFjOKR7k14y4-4jMTZhWhjfMs14GSvulpsZz9wA3HKRg8aAt2sEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKD7l-XK7d0CFUlswQodZ9gOmQ

The locks on each arm appear to be set with not enough distance in length on their respective arm. If the distance were a inch longer, it would not allow this to happen. I did not have a problem with this before the quicker than usual stop after the blow out. I can not find any visual bends in the unit now, but if it is not hooked to the coach, I am able to move the non stationary arm all the way over to the stationary arm with both lock pins locked. That is not supposed to happen, until I find a better fix, I will be using a safety chain to not allow this to happen again. I hoped that Roadmaster would respond with a good fix, but 9 days later still have not heard back from them. I will be emailing them again this PM. To test yours, simply put the assembly out like you are ready to tow with both pins in locked position, now try to push the side that slides back toward the stationary side, if it allows it to go back more than a couple inches without resistance then yours is doing like mine. I would sure like to know your results. I actually had intended this to be started in a new thread but with Carl's question it got here accidently. If the moderator chooses to move it, I will be grateful, thanks.

I don't know how it will be for 2018 with the newest tax codes, but has been through 2017.

My Wrangler tows great but, on the way back from TN., I had a blow out on the inside drive axel passenger side of the coach. I was in the center lane of I-459 southbound so I moved to the right lane then to the emergency lane and stopped pretty quickly. About 2.5 hours later the roadside repair had finally had mounted the spare tire on the rim of the blown tire. When I got back on the road and about two miles down the road the Wrangler started wandering to the left side of the coach, tow bar is a Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000. I let my wife finish driving the Jeep home, and I have now added a safety device to the tow bar to prevent this from happening again. Only two incidents while towing vehicles over the past 50 years, both were on 4 down vehicles. By the way the pins were locked properly when this occurred, I called Roadmaster and sent them pictures of this.

When I was building my coach, bus conversion, when I got through adding everything except flooring I took it out for a test drive. When the bus was empty, it was top heavy causing more sway than I like, and with this in mind, I placed as many heavy items as close to the floor as possible, then the test drive, I still felt some wandering that I didn't like, so I went and purchased granite flooring, about 140 square feet, I placed the boxes of flooring on the floor where I thought would do the most good. A couple more drives rearranging the flooring each time until I got a near perfect steer. Then I installed that granite exactly in the same area that it had been located in the boxes. I'm now in the sixth year of driving the coach both with and without a toad, and I still enjoy driving anywhere. My wife prefers not to travel more than about 200 to 250 miles a day so we stop and go again in the next morning. I have on occasion 600 miles and am not tired of driving then. I can't imagine driving with your conditions. As WildeBill told you, there are remedies for you. I had no way of knowing to what extent you had already looked for solutions, so I and others can only suggest. I always look for the simple things first. How does the coach handle without the truck behind? If this is ok, then of course look at other toads or adding beefier suspension. It is very likely that you can meet up with a friend with a much lighter vehicle that will allow you to tow that to see if this will work better, if no friend, rent something that you can tow for a trial. As for weighing, any items that are placed behind the drive axel will take away from the front axel, so rearranging from rear to forward of the rear axel will add weight to the front axel and reduce the rear axel. For test purposes you can actually add weight nearer the front axel, you might find that adding 300# up there will greatly improve handling, and of course be sure to stay within the max gross weight on any axel.

My exact thought, 2014 was a bad year for Jeep Cherokee, and the Grand Cherokee about 2017 has displayed those same problems. I read about the Wrangler death wobble just yesterday, seems to happen between 45 and 55 mph, loose joints or caster seems to always be the problem with them. I had electronic steering on my Kia Soul, I loved the way that car steers, just too light for a highway with any water on it.

Before trading, take into consideration about how your coach is loaded. Towing a vehicle 4 down is not adding a lot of weight to the rear of the coach unless the tow bar is positioned incorrectly. The tow bar should be as nearly parallel with level ground as possible, measure the bar both front (at the ball), and rear (where it hooks to the truck). If it is higher at the truck end the truck will push downward on the ball each time you apply brakes, adding more weight to the rear of the coach which will cause a lighter front end making for more sway. If the rear of the bar is lower than the ball, then pulling the truck up any hill will cause the same effect as described above. So check this out and let us know if parallel with the ground or not. Now another thing to consider is how is the coach loaded? Any extra weight behind the rear wheels will also cause light steering which in turn makes for swaying problems. To answer your question about anti sway for the rear, yes there are several after market anti sway devices for the rear of almost any style coach, but before jumping into that, check out other sources that will cause sway. Another thought is that you may want to look into an all wheel alignment, be sure to load the coach the way you will normally drive it, water and fuel tanks full, black and gray about half full, many times I have seen proper alignment help tremendously, the manufacturer aligns a new vehicle as an empty shell, add 5000# to that and alignment changes drastically. Just some thoughts that I would try before changing the toad if I did not want to change the toad. Good luck with your quest!

I have not been to this one but have been told by very close friends that Davy Crockett RV park is a beautiful campground, it is not in Lynchburg but not too far away. http://www.davycrockettcampground.com/