kaypsmith

Thanks for the valuable info Bill!

Some may be surprised to find how many new cars do not come with a spare tire anymore! I drove a Kia Soul 14 months before I found out there was no spare tire, came with a jack, lug wrench and a can of fix a flat. I agree with Richard and Herman and others, I do not want to be without a spare. My bus has the spare behind the front bumper like Richards with a mounted spare almost always there. The carrier that Richard posted looks great for those without another place to carry one. By the way Richard, I placed a ratchet strap inside the tire bay for loading and unloading the spare, works great.

I think that we are agreeing Bill, the dealer is just trying to unload his old stock. I did not check the load rating and # of plies of an XRV, but I would bet they are 16 ply which will ride much better than a 20 ply.

Does your coach have a trail axel? If it were my choice, I would go with the 12R22.5 on the steer axel and continue with 315's on the drive axel, this arrangement will help retain the radius on the rear which is most likely closer to your tank drain anyway, while avoiding the airbag scrub on the steers. I personally don't like tire scrubbing, but then that's me, not you.

Michelin actually calls it an X Incity Z, load range L, 20 ply tire. https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bcontent/PDF/X_INCITY_Z_datapg.pdf Sounds like a hard ride to me.

You were lucky that Loves did anything for you in an RV, the one that I went to would not even sell me a fuel filter because they don't work on RV's or Busses, my filter was a stock item on the shelf in plain site. I will never buy fuel at a Loves as a result.

I will not use remanufactured or off brand cartridges because I have experienced leaks and failures in the past when using that type of cartridge. The above is VERY GOOD PRACTICE. If anyone is an infrequent user of your inkjet printer, another good practice is to remove the ink cartridges from your printer, place them in a zip lock bag, and store them in a refrigerator, this keeps them from drying out and clogging the print heads in the printer. Of course using on even a semi weekly plan this is not necessary, but some people use as little as once a month and that needs to be addressed as I mentioned, or if going on a long vacation do as I mentioned, you will be surprised how much longer those cartridges will last.

Jim, do you have the music to go with those lyrics? If not I'll try to noodle it, looks like a fun song! Another way to forget about cabin fever.

Makes perfect sense to me, I was only pulling Carl's chain since he had not had his morning cup yet. That is a very good idea, and well worth sharing. You can start to see why we need you around. Actually I have plumbed houses in my past, and installed similar devices, only need to bypass into the cold water side of plumbing to return to the cold water side, but it requires a small pump at each location to make that happen correctly, in the motorhome the short distance back to the fresh holding tank is the most economical.

Yes Carl, it could be hooked to a faucet, but the idea is to send it back to the FRESH water to create a savings plan, the return pipe is the loop that you create.

My company buys printers and toner for those same printers, and has done so for the past 38 years. We buy toner cartridges in cases not individual from the manufacturer, many of customers are on a special plan offered by Office Depot and they are able to buy their toner cartridges there cheaper than we can buy from the manufacturer. They are buying by the carload and pass their savings on to those special customers, just good business practice as far as we're concerned.

Herman, What's a Parka? I like that one. Since there are turns and bends and an orifice involved in the process, it is possible that that the gell is blocking the normal flow of the system. locating the orifice would be my starting point for applying some warm air, this point should be the area just before the freeze plates in the unit, and with that in mind, the hair dryer heat forced at the plates would be my starting point. Hope this helps.

Hello Bill, that was while camping, weather map, was expecting bad weather that day, can't afford to be in a tornado.

We have another regular on the forum with the same problem, we call him Rich for short! Your project looks great! Actually most of the regulars on here are very much like yourself, enjoying what we do and sharing it with others as well as trying to help others. When you look at my avitar, that is a converted MCI former Greyhound, then sold to Vermont carriers before I took possession back in 2009. Here is a link to my inside photos.

Send fzeuner a PM, he lives in Lakeland, a member of FMCA and a great guy, I bet that he can offer some good suggestions. If you don't know how, just click on the envelope at the top of the page, click on compose and enter his FMCA name, enter subject then fire away.

Hello somewhereinusa, glad you finally joined the forum and welcome to the forum. I too converted my own bus and joined FMCA back in 2013, but immediately joined the forum. I don't use Michelin tires and have used other brands for many years. I don't subscribe to any insurance through FMCA either. But I have remained a member this long and paid up till 2021, and will renew when the time comes. I have many friends and come to know many through my former post's and thoroughly have enjoyed it. I have had my feelings hurt on several occasions by some of the rudest posters that asked a question and appeared to be seeking help and I asked a question so as to have a better understanding of their problem, and found that knew far more than I, and to overcome, I simply bow out of their conversation. I absolutely love the comradery that most on this forum have shared through the years. I am at work and started this post two hours ago and others have chimed in, so I wont bore anyone with some of my questions, just looking forward to knowing about your conversion, and what general area that you reside.

Great work Ray, these are some of the same problems that I also work with daily. This past Monday one of my techs came to me and asked me to check a switch on a very large and expensive printer, I flipped the switch, nothing happened, asked if the printer was plugged in, answer was no. I looked at the power wire, was way too small, swapped for the correct wire, flipped the switch, viola everything worked again, tech scratched his head and said, never thought about that.

http://lakecityrvresort.com/ This a very nice campground to stay at to start your stay, then move further south to other RV parks. It is located 60 miles west of Jacksonville and 40 miles north of Gainesville, there are several at or near Ocala which are 50 miles north of Tampa, after that good luck. We have kin at Lake City and stay at the one I mentioned and really like the management and sites there. Welcome to the forum, happy tales and trails.

That is why I chose a bus conversion, I previously owned two fiberglass MH's and never felt completely safe in them. Conversion may not be much better, but it was designed for commercial carrier and many built in safety features are designed into it. I came upon a very nasty one last year, Phaeton had ran off the road down a steep embankment and into a very wooded area. There were many pieces of fiberglass skin along the trail, but the unit was still upright and no injuries. Carl, I agree that defensive driving and keeping good tires on them as well as routine safety inspections is the best insurance.

https://www.amazon.com/Updated-Antenna-Aigital-Booster-Vodafone/dp/B078S9L6QR/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1546950191&sr=8-13&keywords=mimo+antenna This is the one that I use, and works great.

How many bolts are on top of that air bag? If that is a nut below the brass fitting, it looks as though the hole that it is down in is just an opening large enough for the nut to just be sitting through. Most of those type flanges are only 1/4 inch thick, and the nut may be down against the top of the air bag. Do you already have the replacement air bags so that you can see how it is plumbed? I'll attach a picture of my bag in the AM, too dark to take a picture tonight. By the way, I wound up using a smoke wrench (torch) to remove all the bolts in the end.

To modify your OP, just go back there and click on edit, you can then attach a file or modify as needed. I just went through that same job on my MCI coach 5 months ago, replacing all 6 on the rear. I used mirrors and also found that one of the close quarter cameras to be very useful. also there is a crowfoot flare nut tool for your ratchet tool to be very helpful. https://www.protorquetools.com/1-4-7-williams-1-2-drive-crowfoot-wrench-flare-nut-12-pt/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=2814&utm_campaign=CPCS - Shopping - NB&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=Desktop&utm_term=4576854590515288&msclkid=3c9af7654a191c62a7abab56eb4f889b, the website is for illustrative purposes only. My wife has much smaller hands than I so I did call on her several times. I might add, that you need to be very careful working under that or any coach, make sure that appropriate blocking and jack stands are in place before crawling under there.

I was going to mention checking ride height, Brett beat me to that one. Not knowing what type wheels the OP has on coach, stud pilot, or hub pilot, I will add that a warped or bent wheel if hub pilot, or if stud pilot, a possibility of an improperly torqued wheel could cause the shaking sensation on the steering column. This is reason why he needs to rotate tire/wheel from left to right to see if the vibration moves with the wheel. If none of this helps, give my friend Bill Denton a call (http://powersteer.com/ ). I've known this guy for 30+ years and never known of a large truck that he could not resolve a front end issue with.

Possibly a fuse to the ECM, if no power there it will never crank and to my knowledge that is the only electronic possibility. I've had that to happen to me on my Detroit engine. Other than that on a diesel, there is fuel or the lack thereof either by stopped up filters, or a lift pump not pumping.

Caution, do not use a wire wheel brush! As Bill suggested, a sanding disk will work great, but a wire wheel will gouge the plastic, with possible ruin.