kaypsmith

Todays electrics use only single phase or three phase, 240 volts are sometimes mistakenly called two phase but is not a true statement because 240 using two 120 volts are exactly 180 degrees out of phase with each. To be two phase, and was sometimes used in the early 1900's (twentieth century) was 110 volts twice and only 90 degrees out of phase, the motors that use that setup are harmonically imbalanced. Three phase has a third hot leg within the 60 cycles and usually is 190 to over 200 volts depending on which designation the delta is called.

Carl, do you hold the switch for either direction, or is there a limit switch to stop it at the end of the run? If you hold it to make it run, it is momentary, if there is a limit circuit, then it will be a toggle.

Probably double pole, double throw momentary switch if it powers both directions, if only one direction then single pole, single throw momentary. Walmart has a good selection in their automotive accessories. Be sure that you get one with at least same amperage that you already have, if more, no problem as long as it fits. Happy new year all.

Macon is only thirty miles above Perry, most likely Rich will be traveling right through Macon on I-75 south on the way to Perry.

I sometimes wonder if salt wont corrode fiberglass! Well maybe not fiberglass but my brother owned homes right on the beach near PC Florida, and the salt air down there did a number on almost every kind of metal except high grade stainless, aluminum was one of the worst to sustain damage from the salt.

So what is the L-16 ah rating @ 6 volts?

Welcome to the forum Blackbear. It is Sprint, I used them several years ago, was locked into a two year plan, I bought out of the plan early because of the random slowdowns, it worked great a little while then back to working good until I had a major download, then back to slooooooooooooooooooow. Hope you have better luck than everybody else that I know of.

The key to running a residential fridge on an inverter is to look at the specs and shoot for the lowest amp draw. My 20 CF Samsung max draw is 3.9, it is an inverter style fridge and typical draw is about 1.7 after startup which is pretty consistent, therefore a rather small solar system will provide plenty of reserve power to keep it running for days when there is adequate sunshine for 8 or more hours in each day.

On one coach, we cut through both fiberglass skin and luan plywood, replaced the plywood with just the right thickness plywood so that it was flush with the outer skin, did a rough sand job on the entire sidewall that was pretty badly affected, then applied new skin over the entire side. The results were very good with a new coat of paint over the entire coach (white) then added some vinyl graphics. Thanks for responding to all of us, looking forward to seeing a great looking coach from you in the future. May the coming year be the best for all!

Could possibly, but with air brakes one needs to always perform the routine maintenance items first, purging air tanks and air drier is a routine item but many rv'ers have either never been versed on the importance of those items, or have done it so infrequently that they forget that it is a must, and many times is the actual culprit. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Sadly those guys outside skin was luan plywood with fiberglass skin glued onto that. Adhesion of the fiberglass was not as much an issue as is the fact that the plywood itself seperates (delaminates) due to the moisture. I have over the years removed and replaced both plywood and fiberglass in areas to make them more appeasing. It is a painstaking process but can be done with very good results and will last many years if the moisture is kept away from those areas. Todays fiberglass coaches use a composite underlayment instead of plywood, which is why they tend to look good for many more years, and that same composite is available to replace the old plywood. The roof as Carl suggest is always my main concern also, with much attention to where the roof joins the sidewall.

Just a note on what causes those vent covers to crack. Ultra violet light (rays from the SUN) is the largest enemy to plastic and many other materials. Since most vent covers are plastic of some form, and many companies do not use a UV deterrent, then the best solution is to use a natural UV protectant. The color BLACK is the only known natural UV shield in existence today. Therefore if you use black vents and vent covers made by any company they will last much longer than any others on the roof because of the sun exposure. This is true whether you use the actual covers or those that you snap or tie over them. Only place that you will ever see white exposed wires is in marine applications, and that is because salt does not affect white as badly as it does any other color. Let us see an exterior picture of that Alfa, I have always loved seeing those beast lumbering down the road, good luck with your project and MERRY CHRISTMAS. P.S. if the vents are made of steel, then the sun isn't a problem to them anyway.

Can I borrow some Wayne? You must be plugged into the Pentagon directly.

Merry Christmas back to you and Lois Rich, and to all others on the forum. Did my last Santa for this year last night, the kid turnout was poor but all that did come had a blast.

Here is a link on this same topic nine years ago on an entirely different site, https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091229151642AAwrnFs&guccounter=1

Correct, the generator frame, not the chassis (vehicle) frame, only time will ever be a problem is in the event neutral shunts to AC ground, unfortunately that does happen. I have seen more of this in bus conversions, and someone not familiar with AC vs DC grounding. 12 volts DC when touched by someone with wet feet, not usually a problem, while 120/240 AC could potentially be lethal, regardless of the source, shore power or generated or inverted. If hot side shunts to ground then fuse/circuit breaker will open, or if on GFCI then the GFCI will trip. I have over the years found that someone had replaced the AC breaker box and not knowing, had terminated frame ground to the neutral bus bar there with the chassis ground attached also causing numerous mysterious issues, yes when attached correctly to shore power then all frame grounds terminate there as they should, but when not attached to shore power then frame ground terminates at the generator.

Make sure that AC (alternating current) frame ground is not connected to the chassis/chassis ground system in your coach. and also be certain the generator is in no way grounded to the chassis of your coach. I'm assuming that is an anomaly that has been with the coach as long as you have owned it. The generator is supposed to be mounted in rubber standoffs/mounts for this reason, if the system is compromised either intentionally or accidently, strange things seem to happen, and also possible shocking sensation in the event you are standing in water outside and touch any metallic object on your coach. More to this story but not the appropriate thread to introduce it.

I have the old post paid plan, I've tried on three occasions with three different reps and same thing from each, either pay $175.00 termination fee or keep in play the old plan @ $65.00 per month till July 21 2019, and add the new plan, I'm not going to pay $130.00 per month for seven more months and have two plans when I only need one. $175.00 termination would be much cheaper that the alternative, but I don't feel compelled to go their route right now.

CWSWINE , that is great news, I am looking forward to upgrading in July 2019, not willing to pay them $175.00 to drop out of present contact, yet.

My dogs travel in their own pet crate/cage, not because they want to but for safety reasons. If you use one be sure that the crate is secured so it can't become a flying missal in the event of an accident, and of course hope that you never have one, remember the scout motto, "BE PREPARED". And another welcome to the forum!

He may be like my wife, foot on accelerator until 27 feet from attempted stop to always going over the intended stop point. I am a defensive driver and always am aware that I could need to stop, so I let off the accelerator before needing to stop, and with her driving and my driving the same car, fuel mileage is always 2 to 4 MPG better when I drive. Merry Christmas to all!

Are you going to enter that display on the great light fight on ABC? The grand prize is $50,000. Merry Christmas Ray!

At what mileage was the Motorcraft additive added? Also at what mileage did the shudder start appearing?

As long as the system is in good working order, there should be no problem.

I tried to cancel my service with dish back in the early 90's, I was out of contract with them 4 years at the time, they continued to bill me for six months of which I paid them 2, then I said no more. Four months later with me calling each month that I no longer wanted their service and refusing to pay, they sent me a letter stating that I could never get their service again. I'll watch no more TV if I am ever down to no other way.