kaypsmith

Don't miss a chance to eat at the Old Mill while you are there, the wait is worth while. Please be hungry when you go!

OK got that question answered, no it is not satellite oriented, sure wish it was. Signal problems -- device is disconnecting from network or seems slow If your Skyroam device is disconnecting from the network or slowing down, there are some common reasons that this could happen: 1) You are too far away from the cell tower. 2) There is something (or multiple things) between you and the cell tower that's interfering with the signal. There are really only 2 culprits causing these problems: distance and obstructions. Here are some common culprits that can obstruct cell phone reception: Terrain Man-made obstructions and buildings Vehicles Vegatation Here are things you can and should try whenever this happens: Turn the Skyroam Solis off and wait for 5 minutes (this is called a hard reset) Stop moving so much and so quickly Try to change your location if you are in a stubborn spot Find a window Go to a higher floor or try to get above ground Go outside Download an app that lets you find cell towers and signals (such as open signal) Use a mobile service map tool Buy a cell signal booster MYTH: Skyroam should work wherever my cell phone works. FACT: Although Skyroam will work in most places cell phones are working, this is not always the case. There can be differences between providers based on which cell towers plans may be connecting to. Not any one device or provider connects to every cell tower out there. In other words, it is still cell tower oriented, if no tower close by, bye bye wonderful service. Although if truly unlimited is what it claims, and you can use where you are already getting service, and you need that much data, it still may be worth it. But anywhere is not quite accurate

Well it looks good for $9.00 per day or $99.00 per month, the claim is good. I kept trying to find out how it works, but nothing on the website actually tell this. Only way that it can possibly work everywhere as described is by satellite, but nothing actually tell me that. At least the info provided tells me that for $9.95 per day I can rent one with no contract, I don't see anything about rental of the device, but you will have to have one to access. Let us know how you like it.

I think that I will stick to my two side radiators setup with those two huge squirrel cage fans to cool my turbo air. LOL!

That would be like sending your coolant through a blast furnace when one looks like that.

Pretty good presentation. CO is known as the silent killer, not Co2, CO dispels the oxygen within it confines, which first brings on sleepiness because of the low oxygen content, this puts the unlucky recipient to death without realizing what is happening, therefore I liked the fact they are making all aware of the need for CO detectors and the reason for no stacks attached to the exhaust pipes. I never gave much thought to the no synthetic oil, but I never had a reason that made me want to use it. An added thought, CO is commonly called carbon monoxide, as stated earlier, very deadly.

Here is a website that explains what a CAC is and what it does, perhaps will help to understand the principal better. Hope it helps. https://www.vestas-aircoil.com/charge-air-cooler/about-charge-air-coolers/

It happens on probably all computers at the moment, I have accessed from 7 different PC's since yesterday morning, and has happened on all of them. Here is a link that will help explain why, https://blog.radware.com/security/ddos/?utm_term=ddos attack&utm_campaign=Search - Blog&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&matchtype=e&network=o&device=c&adposition={adposition}&keyword=ddos attack&msclkid=793e1282d DNS attacks are becoming very common, none of us need them, very crippling to say the least.

Yes, the ones that are working have no effect on the ones not working, that is the reason for circuit breakers/fuses to isolate potential problems. Sure hope that a tech has very little trouble isolating and repairing your problem.

My condolences also. You have come to the right place to ask questions and guidance. My first response about the AC's is to look on line for prices for replacement units, and find a competent person to replace them. Both units installed (if you really need them) should be less than $2K. Thanks for venting, it reminds us that there are crooks lurking all the time.

All store bought adapters do parallel both L1 and L2, at least all that I had dealings with. My buddy that lives in Florida made ready a 30 amp service for me many years ago, I always thought him to be competent, so I plugged up my store bought adapter, his breaker immediately blew. I do not use premade line checker, always depend on Fluke to check for faults, just omitted that practice that time, never again.

Thanks for posting that Brett. I had an ECM issue last year, engine would crank, run 30 seconds then die, I would go back and pull the ECM fuse, wasn't blown, replace, engine crank and run then die. I then had my wife crank while I watched the ECM fuse socket I saw a small arc then the engine died this time. There was a crimp on ring terminal attached from power source that the crimp side was not making good connection, replaced the ring terminal with no more issues. So many different things can happen.

I believe that insurance is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you will get next!

Agree Rich, while looking at the main distribution panel on page 347, notice that there is a 30 amp breaker on both L1 and also on L2 for inverter. This is uncommon unless the load shedding device has been incorporated in some manner to rob Peter to pay Paul. In this case, the batteries may be called upon, and the charging circuit is trying to keep up, this would cause a high load condition on the opposite leg, the inverter section does indicate that drawing from the inverter while charging simultaneously is possible. Not probable in my eyes, but possible as stated. Also note that all three pictures are showing a 5.4 amp charge rate from solar, I bet that will be less in the absence of sunlight.

Most likely, after studying the manual that Rich supplied, that makes sense.

L2 is definitely carrying a pretty large load from something, I suspect that L2 is supporting the inverter/charger and who knows what else.

Blowing out the ATS was a good move, I have seen ants or some other insect get lodged onto the contacts and cause similar problems. The bottom picture is not representative of 30 amp service, L1 is showing 13.6 amps, while L2 is showing 26.6 amps, that's a total of 40.2 amps. Is it possible that at home you are running a 30 amp double pole breaker feeding a 50 amp receptacle?

Driving should not be an issue since it is AC voltage related.

Well tell the snickering trucker to come to Alabama, all DOT cars "they look like and are State Trooper Cars", are equipped with portable scales, one scale is placed under each tire or set of duals, these feed into a laptop inside the car. The laptop shows each tire individually, then combines the weight per axel, and includes a total weight readout. Yes, I have had them weigh me upon request, with which I was provided a printout of the results.

Good to hear it made a BIG difference. Air ride?

I agree with Ross, as I stated earlier, the most probable is a bad breaker in the breaker box, or a wire has become disconnected from it, or a breakdown in the wiring chain away from it.

I actually used the Thql gfci/circuitbreakers when I built my house on most circuits that needed gfci. These are circuit breakers that include gfci, when one trips, you simply go the breaker box to reset, no hunting to determine where it is located. They are very expensive but worth the trouble saved. Only problem I had was convincing the electrical inspector what they were, of course his book described them but he had never seen one before. If you notice the red button, that's the test button.

There are two ways to wire a gfi, one is to use only that gfi in the location that it serves only, if wired this way, everything downstream is not gfi protected. The other way is of course wired so that everything downstream is gfi protected. The first way is the way that a coach maker would wire it if his intention is to put more gfis further downstream. This info is part of the printed pamphlet that comes with gfis that are individually boxed, contractor packs do not come with this info because the maker expects the electrician to already know this. If wired to my first scenario, then only what is plugged directly into the face of the outlet is protected, everything downstream remains on.

OK, I am assuming that everything else worked on generator and shore power, so that pretty much eliminates the automatic transfer switch and power cords. I once had a wire to come loose from the circuit breaker due to the fact that a sudden overload happened and it burned the breaker outlet. The breaker had to be replaced in that event. Sometimes the coach maker used some stupid ideas and placed a gfi downstream of another gfi.

Are you on a campground pedestal, or at home? Also, have you started the generator to see if anything changes?