kaypsmith

Herman, to make the left side higher, you will need to lengthen the rod on the left rear, or shorten the rod on the right rear, depending or which side is the correct height already. A little bit goes a long way, so lengthen or shorten accordingly. Carl, the reason there is only three valves instead of four is to make sure you don't warp the chassis. The front bags are tied together using the air from the single height valve, this makes the two front bags follow the rear, if you raise either rear side the front will compensate.

Thanks Rich, I looked around the internet to learn that Tiffin does use 240 volt units in their coaches, the key complaint from other users is that the elements on these units is 1800 watts, that's 15 amps per element, not very doable with just 30 amp service, and the users complain that the units will not turn down low enough to just simmer food. My little 1300 watt unit will simmer and work all the way up to 400 degrees, and is thermostat controlled in 5 degree increments. One of the best things about induction cooking is using stackable cooking utensils, use one burner and stack the boilers on top of each other, it works great without mixing the foods in the same pot or pan.

Rick, that is great news and the manlift should work nicely. Bill, the heat pump is as Richard describes it and the way it works, most of them also come with heatstrips to be installed, because the heatpump becomes very inefficient below about 40 degrees. The big advantage in using over a regular AC is the fact you wont need to use propane or whatever fuel you currently use nearly as often, also by utilizing the compressor nearly all year, the units normally have a longer longevity due to the unit is exercised almost year round. I'm sure that you are aware that auto makers added AC to the defrost capability in their cars for the same reason, exercise the unit during the winter months. 1500 btu is a little over one tenth of a ton in AC and is very noticeable in most cases.

If it has a digital readout (most induction units do), and the readout lights and shows correctly I think all is well with voltage. How many burners are on it? I did a little research on the Tiffin Phaeton, it appears that they are using 220/240 volt units due to high wattage, and of course these will not work on 30 amp service since it is 120 volts. Other people with these units are cranking their generator while cooking to get around this problem. There are several countertop units available that use only 120 volts, these units are very inexpensive and work really well. My wife uses our countertop model outside on a picnic table all the time, she doesn't like to smell the cooking food inside the coach.

Make sure that you are using induction ready cookware, aluminum, stainless steel (without iron clad) or ceramic cookware will not work on induction stoves. Induction uses magnetism to generate heat. We have been using induction for several years and have had zero problems while using the proper cookware.

Ground connection (not neutral or common) is paramount in surge protection, as long as ground is not defeated in any way, then multiple surge protection is OK. Incidentally, a joule represents one million (1,000,000) volts.

If it's fixed, and rated for 750#, I see no reason for concern to put 150# up there as long as it is secured so it can't fall out on their head. I used to own a class A that had one of the style beds that could swing down to be slept in, I would never load anything on that thing.

Is the bed permanent mount in one spot, or is it a fold down for sleeping?

Why not place those items on the floor or on the regular bed while traveling, stick them up there while camped. I would not want any weight over my head while traveling, but don't let such a trivial item stop you from RV'ing if you really enjoy it.

Should not make any difference as to what brand. Be sure to check what size breaker the new unit requires, if larger you will need to make sure what size wire is used and not put in a larger breaker than the wire can handle. 15 amp breaker is usually on 14 gauge wire and is ok. If larger breaker is required, 20 amp requires 12 gauge. Many manufacturers use 12 gauge wire and install a 15 amp breaker, in this case, you could move to a 20 amp if needed, but please do not up the breaker size if the wire will not support it, I do not want to hear of a coach burning.

Peter, Colaw RV parts claims to have many Oshkosh rv parts, you might look at their site for future needs. https://colawrvsalvage.com/product/oshkosh-chassis-oshkosh-motorhome-chassis-parts-for-sale-oshkosh-rv-chassis-parts-for-sale/

Here is a 19' on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ez+zip+sun+blocker&_sacat=0 Any size up to 20' will work on your awning, the one shown at CW is a 10 footer. This brand is a good choice.

Do you have a 1500 watt electric element heater? If you do, place it on the highest setting with nothing else on in the coach, take a voltage reading this way, if it drops below 128, you will probably be ok. What type meter are you using? If so, have you checked from the S&B wiring to verify that it has not gone wacky somehow. I have seen false readings on a digital meter with a low battery in the meter.

Wasn't 2014 last year that CRV was flat towable?

I just bought a Jeep Wrangler (2000) model 4 wd because of the simplicity. I found a Roadmaster stowaway tow bar on ebay. Will start the M&G brake assist install Monday.

If off the grid and generator, the inverter starts inverting, (makes 120 volts out of 12 volts dc), that's why it is called pass through, if ac is available, it uses that, if none available then the inverter does it's thang.

My suggestion would be to pull the 2000 watt and replace with a 3000, even if it means using a cheaper brand than Xantrex or Magnum. I have ordered several through ebay and have lasted 5 years now and still going strong. 2-0 wire will need to be replaced for this also in the event the 3000 is maxed at some point in time. I believe that a 2500 watt will be sufficient at this time with only the addition of the fridge, this way only move to one 4-0 wire and the appropriate breaker for the new inverter. What size fridge? There are several 12 volt dc/120 ac units available, only need to run 12v wire to the fridge, most of these units are very low wattage to run, they use a compressor, and come in many sizes up to 16 cf.

Sorry to have caused too much controversy, I have been unable to locate any manuals on this unit, but have now viewed pictures enough to determine that it is a 120 volt only unit. Also it is a direct drive motor to generator, which means no drive belt (good) and that it will have to be 1800, or 3600 rpm, this vintage Onan would be 1800 4 windings. Definitely 0 volts between each side.

Sorry, I re read the post, and checked the model # of the generator, it is a 120 volt generator, so my comments are not valid. A loose or missing ground on a 240 volt system could cause this, but not on a 120 only. Overspeed of the engine or arching commentator could be the cause of over voltage. Most 50 amp coaches uses 240 volt generators is basis for original comment. I'm not sure what speed motor that generator uses, but many are 2500 rpm with an larger pulley on the motor and a smaller one on the generator to spin the generator at 3600, it would not take to many over rpm to drastically change the frequency which in turn raises the voltage. I would still disconnect generator from the ATS for testing the generator, too many volts will fry other components in the system.

Check all connections between generator and transfer switch, a loose or open neutral will cause high readings, as well as other things. I would check the ATS very carefully for loose connections and faulty relays. Definitely believe that the frequency (HZ) needs checking. Were it mine, I would disconnect from the ATS to start my checking and corrections, when loose from the ATS, be sure that you check voltage then, if in normal range, change the ATS. Yes Carl, I would call in a qualified technician, especially if the voltage still shows high while disconnected from the ATS.

What is the wire size from batteries to the inverter now? My biggest concern for this scenario is that the wire size is too small to run both simultaneously, and is there a fuse or breaker between the inverter and the batteries in the event there is an overload.

I don't know what weirdness you were having that warranted changing the isolator, but changing it should have no effect on the s and b breaker unless you somehow grabbed a 120 volt wire and put that on to one of the lugs of the isolator. The ATS would be the likely suspect for tripping the house breaker, it is 100% 120volt, no 12v wires should be attached to it at all. Check for short in shore plug wiring, use your ohm meter across the legs that plug into the cg pedestal. If 30 amp, ohm across the L1 (hot) leg to neutral, if 0 to very low numbers, there is a short in the 120 volt circuit. If 50 amp (4 wires) then check L1 to neutral, then L2 to neutral, L1 and L2 are the spades opposite each other, the spade that stands off and in the center are neutral, look for the same conditions as described above. Good luck hunting, and of course, do not do this test with generator running or plugged into house current, inverter should be turned off also.

Rich, the OP said three studs, I looked them up also and the 1202 is 3, 1202D is 4.

The emergency switch is as mentioned above a solenoid, but depending on which bank the trigger wire is attached, if attached to the dead bank, probably doesn't have enough current to activate the solenoid. In which case may seem to be directional, when in fact if activated, it would be bidirectional.

When you say house breaker, do you mean the 120 volt house breaker? The isolator should be only 12 volts DC, #1 is usually going to the chassis battery/batteries, #2 usually goes to the house battery/batteries, "A" should be wired to either alternator, or charging source if yours is marked like this. You quoted 5 wires, usually only 1 to each bank as they are normally paralleled at the bank, not the isolator, unless using the studs on the isolator as a junction point.