kaypsmith

The emergency switch is as mentioned above a solenoid, but depending on which bank the trigger wire is attached, if attached to the dead bank, probably doesn't have enough current to activate the solenoid. In which case may seem to be directional, when in fact if activated, it would be bidirectional.

When you say house breaker, do you mean the 120 volt house breaker? The isolator should be only 12 volts DC, #1 is usually going to the chassis battery/batteries, #2 usually goes to the house battery/batteries, "A" should be wired to either alternator, or charging source if yours is marked like this. You quoted 5 wires, usually only 1 to each bank as they are normally paralleled at the bank, not the isolator, unless using the studs on the isolator as a junction point.

I ordered a M&G for my Jeep Wrangler 2 hours ago!

Yes, and home rule does apply for this issue, if legal in your state, it applies in the contiguous 47.

I much prefer towing a trailer over any other method, and I do own a 20 ft car hauler, but there some drawbacks. I'm sure that there others but here a few. 1. Although most patrolmen seem to not pay too much attention, there is always a chance there is one with a burr under his saddle, a 39' pusher plus a 24' trailer = 63' plus there is a tongue also to be accounted for, and most states have a maximum length of anywhere of 50 to 65', home state rule doesn't apply here, you are their state and must obey all of that states rules. 2. Where will you park it while at a campground? Yes there are some that have adequate space, but they are getting harder to find. You can probably rent another space, or find a mini warehouse that will rent space. Well I said several, that's only two. The F150 4X4 sounds like a good choice, just make sure that the one you choose can be towed 4 down, and make sure that the hitch and the coach can handle the weight associated with either choice. Welcome to the forum and may you find many happy tales and trails in the RV world. You did ask about bottoming out, I have never bottomed out my trailer, as it was designed well, and uneven terrain I hope will never be a factor because you will need to be observant of this while driving your coach anyway. There are entrances and exits everywhere that must be avoided because of their nature were not designed for any long vehicle. There many service stations that you will need to avoid, but many also can accommodate you, learn to watch for those as you drive up to them, if it doesn't look like it will fit, don't even try it.

Mac uses a Unix kernel for it's OS, still the most stable OS ever written. I am AIX certified, IBM unix based OS, I still prefer command line, but of course can use XWindows, that's IBM's version of a GUI interface, I much prefer it over Windows, but have had to adapt to MS because most government entities have decided to all go that way, I think that they all want to keep Bill Gates filthy rich. Oh, forgot to mention that I have run unix boxes as much as five years without even a single reboot, MS OS has to reboot every time someone sneezes at MS HQ. LOL

Most coaches these days have a fuse lug just above the battery bank, it is usually the first lug that the batteries go to coming away from the batteries, looks very similar to a solenoid but will have no small wires attached. If your coach has one of these, you can use your meter and verify very easily, black wire of the meter on any negative post in the bank, red, first to the wire going to the batteries, if voltage there, move red lead to the other post going away from the battery bank. Also be sure to check all ground connections, if they are broken down anywhere between the bank and the chassis, everything will fail because of this. As Bill said start at the bank and move outward one connection at a time. Of course if you have not done so, first is to check the salesman switch.

One thing to always remember, whether you jack up the coach, or don't jack it, always block the chassis, even if you have leveling jacks, before crawling under the coach. I've been around too many that did not do this, and they are not still around. It doesn't take but one fall to mame or kill a person, none of us want it to be you.

Were I you Richard, I would send Bill a PM ASAP!

I was going to comment last night but didn't. What ever happened to techs that uses gauges to determine head pressure and low side readings to determine the charge? Richard, I bet yours uses R-22 still, been a long time since seeing the old sight glass on a system. That's right R-22 on most older busses, not R-12, mine was upgraded to 134A before I bought it.

Joe, that's great info, glad this subject came up!

With auto slack adjusters, a hard application of the brakes is when they adjust themselves. Best during pretrip preparations, while on level ground so that the coach doesn't roll, disengage the parking valve, apply the brake pedal hard as close to the floor as it will go, hold it there a few seconds then release. Of course you want to be fully aired when doing this. Also frequent lubrication of the auto slack assembly is a must. I bet that Byron, Bill, and Brett are all aware, but I wonder how many others are.

Use a few cubes of ice in a pan or bowl, if it thaws no harm done, and if it re freezes it will have changed shapes.

Here is a youtube video on how to adjust an air brake, probably not the same chassis, but all that I have seen have been the same. Welcome to the forum.

Herman, with the mobile app, you would associate your mobile phone # with your account, at the time the app is installed, it could install several #'s, yours, your wife, and any other that you list. The fact that you instigated the distress call from any one of these, will identify you or other family member that has signaled for help. Only question would be, what type of help do you need Herman? Kay

OK, I Misinterpreted what you wrote, but I thought that the suction hose was the pump pickup hose, and the hose from shore water to the tank was a pressure hose. A ballcock valve in that line should do the trick if you are not ready to tackle the three way valve yet. Good luck and glad that you found the culprit.

I forgot how it easy it is these days yo get a HAM license. I had to learn the Morse code for novice then tech for repeater use, then 13 WPM for general, then 20 for advanced, wow, now it's easy. -. ….- .- - -.-- .--.

With the chassis batteries back in place, take pictures of the setup, then remove the black cable from the right side of the rear post of the house battery bank, then check to see what still works in and out of the coach. The leveling jacks should work, probably need the coach running to test those, the inside overhead lights should not. Oh yes, make sure that shore power is unplugged, otherwise the inside lights should still work if shore power is plugged because they will be getting current from the inverter/converter.

A CB radio may seem like a good way to stay in touch with others in a rolling rally, but can become rather expensive with an antenna to be installed, and properly tuned so that the SWR (standing wave ratio) is acceptable for communications to work very well. Also they will not do much for communications for emergency purposes, if you are out of cell phone range, not much monitoring of the CB band anymore anyway. A good walkie talkie system, either GMRS (general mobile radio service) or FRS (family radio service) for members of the rally will work pretty well, some of them will work for a mile or so, and are rather inexpensive. You can Google the two services and find several brands that might serve your needs for this purpose. Five was typing while I was, and yes Walmart is a good source for CB's, but will be good to look into the services that I mentioned also.

I'm in the same boat Herman, 54 years and still can't tip toe lightly enough.

I know this sounds like a stupid question, but will the coach crank with those batteries out? If so, the pictures look as though someone may have the wrong knobs on the two switches, this would explain everything seeming backwards.

Some pictures of the trouble area will be helpful. What did the previous owners do? Or is this why they no longer own the coach? It sounds as though the door is improperly positioned below the valtera valve, if so, you might think about two 90 degree with a short slinky connecting them, then down through the hose door.

Adding a checkvalve after the pump will stop that problem, very easy fix.

It does do exactly that in my situation. With the 7730 inside the bus (all metal surrounding), even at home I have a signal problem because of the FMJ, I read 2 bars and with the antenna placed on the inside of a window, it increases to 5. I am less than 1000 feet from the Verizon tower and the surround cuts it down that much without the antenna. I was at StGeorge Island Florida in late May, early June with the antenna and had no dead spots. Last year, no antenna, I had to keep moving a few feet to just keep a signal without it. Also, I invested in one of those more expensive antennas and put it on a 20 foot flag pole, it does not perform as well as the window mounted one. Keep in mind, if you can't find any signal, then it will be hard to improve on nothing. I've been an amateur radio (Ham) operator for thirty years, there is nothing better than a good antenna. All are not good!

This sounds like a SkyMed service, not an FMCA Assist Service...I would double check with your friend what kind of program he had. I have not heard of FMCA providing a “Lear Medical Jet” to fly anyone “back home” Allstate or State Farm or any other insurance company doesn't "FIX YOUR CAR", when you have a wreck either, they do CO-OP with repair shops and provide the funding to do the same. FMCA assist service is of the same nature, they can hire anyone capable of getting the job done, which just might include SkyMed service or any other that provides the same service.