kaypsmith

Thanks for updating us, this can help for future references.

oneway, did you ever try the gas can test that I suggested earlier? If you have owned the coach for 12 years, the fuel line may well have broken down, and partially stopped up, or a pinhole developed, allowing air to be pulled into the fuel. Either of these conditions will show up under heavier loads.

I drove a 91 cross country for several years, same thing happened to my unit, there was two flashers under the front module hatch on that unit. The flasher modules were identical, one module flashes the hazardous warning lights, the other the turn signals. To locate the flasher, I turned on the haz lights and followed the sound. After locating it, I moved that flasher to the other location, right beside it, and "viola" the signals began to work. Went to parts store with the faulty one to match, bought two, replaced one and kept a spare from then on. Hope yours is that simple.

With that reply Joe, my brother and his family were transferred to Pittsburgh in 1964 from Birmingham of course. We all love turnip greens here in the south, so sis in law went to the local grocery store to get turnip greens, only found turnip roots, she inquired where the greens were, you probably guessed it, they were in the dumpster. She asked the produce manager to save some for her next time, they ate greens the entire four years that they were in Pa., for FREE.

In a pinch, if you should lose a hitch pin, and do not have a replacement, an electrical wire tie of adequate size works well, at least until it can be properly replaced. I keep several sizes in the coach at all times.

Actually if one output is drawing too many amps, then the circuit breaker on the generator should be tripping instead of bogging down, unless someone has put too large a breaker, or has defeated the breaker somehow. This leads me to believe that something has gone awry with the genset, as stated in post's by others above.

You asked for ideas for hitches, I assume that carriers would be the correct term. Here is an idea for a lightweight scooter, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Scooter-Bike-Car-Carrier-Hitch-Mount-Rack-Load-Ramp-Fit-2-Receiver-/122219401815?hash=item1c74d81257:g:X8oAAOSwa~BYN6o0&vxp=mtr, this is of course a scooter carrier, you could add your present bike carrier to the rear of this carrier and carry all three as long as the total weight does not exceed your hitch and coach weight limits for tongue weight, not to be confused with tow weight.

Yes a bad start capacitor would show on any electric service, and once started the start capacitor is not in use anyway. You might want to try to use a separate fuel container to test run the generator just in case the fuel has lost some octane, I'm assuming that it is a gas generator,and you have stated that the coach sat for four months. The coach motor may not affected as much as the generator because of more cylinders and the electronics on board.

I have not looked into any of the newer coaches that have intellitec, but from the older days a 30 amp coach would not even run both AC's on 30 amp shore power, in the old school, you had to crank the generator to run the second one. But with that said, if 30 amp shore power will run two AC's, then a 5500 watt generator should have no problem running them, as 5500 watts is almost 45 amps @ 120 volts. As jrock stated, a clogged fuel filter, or a near clogged air filter can produce a loss of power. The only observation by the tech may have made to concur that it needed rebuilding, is that a compression test revealed too low compression, which can be caused by bad rings, or bad valves, or poorly adjusted valves.

Who said that the inside photo was from the sold coach. The new one is a good looking coach, congratulations.

I lost the key one time also, so no more locks, although I have considered a combination lock, that way the combination could be written down and stored in the coach.

I use hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine bleach, I usually use a quart in approximately 5 gallons of fresh water in the fresh water tank, then use pump to flush all of the lines, starting with the valve farther away from the tank, then to the ones closer in, one at a time. Bleach is OK, but the smell lingers for a while, and the peroxide is odorless and has equal sanitizing capabilities. Also with either, you will need to use fresh water after use and flush well. If you add sanitizer before fresh water, the filling should agitate sufficiently, I like leaving home or any place with good water in the tank.

Should work great, as long as it's CRUDE.

If you have a smartphone, RVParky is a pretty good app for what you are asking for. Also 6 hours driving is a pretty good allocation, about 250 to 350 miles per day, depending on route and weather conditions. Welcome to the forum, many happy trails and tales to you.

If you and or wife are 62 or older, I recommend getting a Federal senior pass, used to be called Golden age pass if you do not already have one. https://store.usgs.gov/pass/senior_pass_application.pdf Benefits are very good. Also you might look into outdoor portable shower equipment for use in those federal parks that don't have showers. This will greatly increase the benefits of those parks, and with a senior pass usually cuts camping to half price, and eliminates park admission for just site seeing, this is recognized for your entire group.

OP stated that the valve has dripped all the time they have owned the coach, therefore replacement probably is a good idea if no kit available for repair. Also notice that the valve has two holes that were put there for mounting purposes, they were left unused from the factory, which is a potential leak at some time, especially in a motorhome that rumbles down the highway with a lot of movement. If I were doing the repair, I would mount that valve correctly to avoid that being a possible leak in the future. Good luck with the repair Tracey, and a good job finding the leak.

Not being controversial, but 1 inlet and 2 outlets = two way valve. My coach does have a three way valve, 1 inlet, and three outlets, the third one is to a second fresh water tank, the two tanks has a cross flow, but the crossflow is a little slow to fill the second tank, hence the third position to be able to fill the second faster.

Congratulations, I love when a plan comes together.

I've tried to discourage my DW from being a HAULIST for 30 years of camping now, and I still have to go behind her dumping THINGS so that I will have enough power to pull up the hill leading to my home.

Our landfill charges ten dollars for a pickup load, they have workers there that disassemble "things" that come into the dump for recycling purposes.

This coach never had a "Noncold"in it. The old Cross Country Sportscoach did. I was determined when I built this coach to have the best of the best, with the most usable room, no slides to have to wonder if they would work this time or not, and no worries about delamination, or leaking rubber roof.

Joe, had the same thing happen at the Flying J just down from my house, didn't have a smart phone back then. I demanded that his boss call his home office for clarification.Yep, tightening the packing has stopped mine from leaking before.

The rate of discharge on the golf cart is less than discharge rate when cranking your coach. One way to make the #3 easier to work with, if you have room for it, is to increase the length by enough to make bends longer.

Bill, that was before modernization, with the new technology takes extra time to keep up, LOL.

My ice cream stays so hard in the residential fridge that I put it in the microwave 15 seconds to make scooping possible.