kaypsmith

Maybe was too close to true magnetic north and was confused, LOL.Was there in 2007, my Casio altimeter watch went crazy on that trip. Really, hope you find a good replacement.

Thanks Todd for the painstaking work, hope this means it is now on in-house server/servers, probably no more trust issues.

12 gauge would be pretty thick, nearly 1/8 thick, 11 ga. is 1/8, 16ga. in 305 stainless will be pretty hard to bend but of course tubing is probably 204 which I believe would be ok. Polished would look good, but that is a whollllllllllllllle lot of sailcloth at very high rpm and a lot of water on the brow. Yes Rich, hot rodders use a lot of stainless tubing, both round, square, and some rectangle. E-bay has 2.25 round for exhaust listed.

Most newer coaches do not use wood studs anymore, not true with 70% of travel trailers. Most newer coaches actually use steel, some of them use aluminum framing all welded together and foamboard placed between this framing with lauan plywood inside and out, the newest of which use a composition board which will not delaminate, this is why the newest coaches you don't see as much delamination of the fiberglass skin. The builders still place a wood 2X6 just under the roof line and around the exterior doors for easy attachment of the awning j-rail, and entry lights. This is a reason why it is best to consult with the builder if possible before attaching anything to the walls. Also be aware that many builders use the framing like conduit to channel wiring to the many locations throughout the coach, this why it is not a good idea to use a stud finder to locate the studs and to drill into them without knowledge of what is inside of them. If your motorhome was built after about 1980, please do not assume that the manufacture even resembles the manufactured home example as indicated in an earlier post on this same thread. Motorhomes are not built to HUD standards, they are built to RVIA standards. I worked in the manufactured home industry for 5 years in late 70's, and early 80's, and am very familiar to all stated in that article. Have visited several coach manufacturing facilities, and know there is no comparison.

If running the tank over caused problem, an easy fix is to add a hose extension and route it downward and bore a hole in the floor pan same size as the hose for overflows, and push the hose to the outside. To fix the floor correctly, there are fiberglass repair kits for floor pans, pretty easy to use, and I would add a treated plywood support under the tank if enough room. Be sure to put a screen over the end of the hose, should you use this method, to keep critters out of the FWT.

Nitehawk, good observation, I do not see any buttons in the OP pictures, but they can certainly be added. Back in the day of ceiling carpet, I used a large hypodermic needle to inject the contact glue through the fabric to help adhere the carpet into place. One could predetermine the placement of the buttons and use the needle glue for extra support. I used the same needle that is used for vitamin B12 injection, as they are of a pretty large gauge.

Herman, pictures are deceiving, I only meant that the picture makes it look like OSB, not that it was made in the fashion of OSB.

Joe, what OD is the coolant pipes? Pro racing shops usually carry stainless exhaust pipe, and there is a very good source in B'ham.

It would be a little tricky to force the hose over it, but just a very minimal flare could be used, or place the pipe before bending in a cradle, and run a very small heliarc bead on each end in the appropriate distance from the end, I know someone who has this equipment and is capable. In earlier years most of these pipes were made of brass.

Maybe a time and date stamped, motion detected hidden camera placed on the sideview mirror. Seriously though, most rely on an honor system.

Stainless steel would be nice, but don't know about availability, if pipe is available most muffler shops could handle the bend.

If they are not concerned after letting the owner of the camper know, a trip to the park manager is next in line, no one else wants to be next to a leaker.

Carl, the part on Tennessee where he is going, he of course already has a campground, I was only using that as example, there many great campgrounds near that Walmart that could easily accomodate 80 footers.

At any of the Walmart's, or others, be sure to inquire to make sure that it is OK at that location to overnight. Walmart and many others usually welcome your overnight stay, but some cities have ordinances that prohibit this, and the customer service desk will gladly tell you if OK or not. Seveireville Tn. Walmart is one that you can not overnight at because of local ordinances, which I'm sure the many campgrounds very near have been able to get passed. Have a wonderful trip, Kay

Mine has 3 spiral type gears that rotate around another, all three had an eclip holding them in place of which only one was missing. These gears are located inside the same canister as the motor. What brand and model is your awning? Also the drive mechanism is usually held in place to the motor by a roll pin, at least on the models that I have repaired.

Joe, wish my air chambers, air bags, and shocks had been that easy. All done except one bag was back ordered, hope that isn't too long coming. Shooting for Oct 7 take off for Pigeon Forge.

I have A&E awnings, one came from the factory doing the same thing that the OP described, I found that an e-clip was missing, replaced that and has worked correctly for 3.5 years now.

Herman, yes I have an over and under hitch, that came from Harbor Freight, although I still use a tow dolly which has to be removed anyway, that is where I carry the golf cart, and auto.

Shortbus, I purchased a flagpole mount at CW that fits in the receiver on the back of the bus, has worked well for me.

I don't know if yours is A&E or Carefree or what, but here is a manual for A&E with metal roller cover, hope it helps to understand how most of them work. http://hmcclub.homestead.com/awning_replacement_instructions.pdf

As Herman said, open the awning fully, and from the end that is too far away from the awning arm, try pulling the awning back into place. Most of the covers that I have seen are fixed to the awning itself, and the awning can usually be pulled into place especially if the "screw/rivet stop" has been omitted, or fallen out.

If early Nov., Tannehill will be great, Oct., it is packed out, if I know when you will be in the area, I will be glad to reserve a spot, have to place a tent on the site to reserve. Also FtPayne is where the Alabama museum is located, Desoto State Park is located very near this location and is a very nice Park, Nocalula Falls park is in Gadsten 35 miles short of FtPayne, pretty nice park also. What part of Florida are you located? I lived in Lake City for 12 years 32 years ago, call is n4wqp, welcome aboard, and 73.

The epoxy primer is good advice, silicone caulk will actually start the oxidation process on raw steel prematurely. Butyl rubber caulk is another alternative.

I had to replace the right side manifold last January, I have also felt that pain. Mine does have a left and right side, as it is a V-6.

And then there is active directory, another branch of the tree, on a domain server.