huffypuff

Tom, I'm aware of the pvc pipes and even had a section of it cut lengthwise. I went with the gutter because it;s lighter and easy to handle and cut what you need. Good for everyone to know because the half pvc is stronger if you need that.

The fresh water hose reel is a future project for me. I have a area behind the big white plastic panel where I can take a useless hose storage out. Then cut the plastic panel enough to mount a hose reel. My ideas are not new but I think best to share if it will help anyone. The elbows I just throw on the bottom as they won't fall through.

Source: Drain System Management

I started by finding wasted space to store the sewer hoses and connectors, I used two heater duct about 5 feet long with end caps. One is 6 inch dia and the other is 5 inch. 5 inch will work just fine. Click pictures to make larger. This show the hose going in the 5 inch duct with connectors. These ducts will hold 20 feet of hose with connectors each. I brought two ten foot plastic gutter the cheap 4 inch wide and cut off 25 inches off them to fit the length of the cargo bay. It is wasted space where I put them between the wall and cargo tray slide. This is the gutters on the ground ready to be put together to make a tray for the drain hoses. This is the two gutters snapped together to make a sliding tray for the sewer hose This is the sewer hoses laid in the gutter tray. Make the gutter tray slightly longer than needed for the sewer hose. I used 10 inch bungee cord to keep the snapped part of the gutter tray together This is the final setup to have the hose run off as best as you can get without dips to trap sewer water. I have two problems this solved, the coach is low in the rear and the campground drain would only allow the tip of the elbow to be inserted. This project to me is better and cost less than what is out there. The two gutters and bungee cords cost about $15. The duct work with caps was less than $25. This makes managing the sewer hose system so much better and less messy.

The weak point to residentials refrigerator is the compressor. The op asked how well does a residential refrigerator rock and roll. I believe one of the reason absorption refrigerators was used in was longevity. How long will a residential refrigerator compressor take the beating going down the road. I haven't yet to see anyone claim that their residential refrigerator lasted 15 years going down the road. If a Norcold died in a 12 plus year old coach it's a piece of junk. At least replacing a cooling unit is a easy fix but not so for a compressor. When to operate and cost is another factor. Most don't operate their refrigerator down the road and only in campsites or running the generator. On propane a absorption refrigerator can run for months on a tank of propane and what little battery used is charged when driving down the road. When I go to a campground that requires me to pay for meter electric I keep the refrigerator on propane. The reason why it's cheaper than running on meter electric. A residential refrigerator don;t have that option. When my 10 year old coach Norcold dies and it may in the near future as I heard others going at 14 years or more or less years. I don't see the benefits of going residential. Not because others are doing it or new wave of builders going all electric. The one good thing about the competition is there is more focus of building the absorption refrigerator better.

I believe the gasses are coming up from the campground sewer lines when you leave the gray valve open like Kaypsmith says. I never leave the valve open and have minimum odor as a result from toilet only. I'm not saying what other saying isn't right but I don't think leaving a dump valve open to open campground sewer is using as designed and not going to end in good results. When staying long term I watch the monitor level gauges to open valve only when needed.

When I leave for the winter to snowbird I carry my 8 foot ladder with me for all of above what Tom says and more. I do not wash before leaving because it would be a waste of time with the rain and road dirt. Also the passes and snow you may run into will make the coach filthy. When I get to my designation I can wash and wax and rain-x all the windows and that will keep the coach looking good until driving in the snow or rain again. I don't care what others thinks of my ladder on the back of my coach.

I'm using the original transfer switch but installed a hardwired surge voltage protector before the transfer switch. This also protect from bad connection and or terminals on the cord or reel.

Happy New Year and retirement from Desert Hot Springs. CA

Where do you live for them to crack so soon? Do you keep them covered or apply tires dressing? Are the tires 5 years old on the coach or by the date on the sidewalls? I heard more than once that sidewall cracking is cosmetic.

That same boost relay is supposed to also energized when the engine is running to keep the house batteries charge. If the relay is weak it won't energized because of the vibration. To check if I'm right check for power to the small positive terminal at that relay and if you got power there you found the problem. I had to replace the relay on my coach to a new upgraded one that look very much like the old one.

If the brake fluid gets hot from heavy use of braking it will reduce the performance of your brakes until cool down. Reduce the pressure setting on your tow braking system.

If you have basement heat and pads on your tanks you should be ok. One years my coach basement heat failed in Idaho at 8 degrees and froze the cold water lines. Once south to warmer weather all was fine. I now have a new basement heater, repaired the old one and another backup. Easy to buy 120 volt ceramic heater but not the 12 volt one.

ObedB you may be right but if it was me if vehicle don't start from dead battery I turn the ignition switch harder.

Merry Christmas from Desert Hot Springs.