huffypuff

Looks like you found a nice coach in good shape. Congratulation and welcome to FMCA.

I have one on my house, dog runs right through it.

I just talked to a customer who tried Siverstar seal beams and says the low beams are way better but the high beams are about the same. I imagine the same would work if yours uses the bulbs. That is all else is OK voltage and plastic lens. If dull discolor lens my experience working at a county fleet is to replace them. We would polish them and not get the desire results especially on police cars. These are vehicles that are less than ten years old.

What do you have now? Are they seal beams?

Rusty I had an old square tube Eagle 8000 and was so old they no longer had parts for it. With the joints being so loose they wanted it off the road and gave me $300 trade for it. I now got the Falcon All Terrain non binding and very glad I did. I believe that they still repair all the other Falcons.

Go to a rally they attend as a vendor and they will fix it.

Forums are the complaint hotline of today and not very often would someone start a post to comment on excellent service.

Justus2 thanks for the link. I had excellent service from them here in Washington and handle extended warranty flawlessly. I gave them an excellent review.

When we were sure wanted to try a motorhome we brought a older used 16 year old class A. We used it for three years and didn't lose much when traded in for what we have now. I'm thinking if it wasn't a trade in and and not three years later I may of got what we paid for it.

Thanks you Roger for letting us know the facts. Like Bill stated I know you also recommend increasing tire pressure 10 lbs also. Isn't the reason is for extending highway speeds not that the manufacture recommendation is low for local driving? I seem to remember even back in the 70's (showing my age) that it was recommended to increase car tire pressure a couple pounds before long trip. I didn't know why but did it. Could you clear up this point for us please? Thank You!

Looks like standard hitch pin and 2 inch wide. Check the ends of a roadmaster tow bar.

I got this one and love it. Inflate tires to this gauge cold like first thing in the morning. http://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM

My coach hot water works on both electric and propane. When we need hot water I turn on both and turbo heat the water in less than 20 minutes.

Fneece, Make sure they wire tie the insulation around the burner snug. If not a loss of heat there would reduce performance.

That switch is located right at the parking brake switch. It is tee in and has about three wires to it. I had opposite problem as mine wouldn't light the dash light. Then everything that require the parking brake to be on wouldn't work like the leveling jacks. The switch is a Nason SM-1C-66R/WP28 and can be ordered from one of the following: Cross Company 866-219-8217Sunsource 800-228-5800Flow Dynamics 205-581-1200Hydraulic Energy Products 800-800-3471Fluid Power Equipment Co., 877-471-8999Hydraulic Controls in Phoenix 602-278-6088

Jim, it's in my service manual to dump all air in the tanks before leveling. Hold the dump button and feather the brakes. It doesn't take long to dump or refill. If I don't dump the air tanks, air will pump up the air suspension.

According to all 2009 Monaco Diplomat they come with › Dual 15M BTU Roof Air Conditioner with Ducted Air, Heat Pumps and Digital Thermostat Control.

Sorry Herman, my last answer was for Jimmy as I didn't have enough information to know the problem with his unit. He could have the dreaded ammonia leak as well. Sorry it happen to you at such a bad time as I know you have better things to do at the rally you're attending. You can get the new and old out the front door as I seen on one posting somewhere. Best to unhook the top arm stop on the door to swing open wide and tie to the front mirror arm. Move the front passenger seat out of the way with just four bolts and a electrical plug. Careful that seat is also heavy as I know when I replaced the carper with floor. Remove the inside handrail so you don't get a surprise scratch or two on it. You don't have to cut any of the lines on the cooling unit as that part can go out the door separate. You must take the doors out separate and then the fridge shell. The new fridge should come in with the doors and shelves removed. I hope it all goes well for you.

Yes the rotted floor is because one has to check the ice maker inlet water valve washer every year. It can drip without you knowing it and result in a wet floor under the refrigerator. Years of that can rot the floor out. I caught mine dripping twice as I fired up the fridge and water pump overnight and check in the morning. Needless to say I carry spare washers that fits that valve and other water hoses.

Is the unit working at all or not? The black box will only show a flashing or solid red light if it is tripped. If you have a flame burning you must have 12 volts. It could need burner service or maybe the insulation isn't wrapped tight enough from the recall. Hard to tell without looking at it. Oh if you are parked the coach must be level.

Thanks for the offer Herman but my Norcold is fine for now so no parts needed. There is some that may need something so had on to them if you can. Those doors are expensive to replace as I heard you can't even get the door seal for it. I see your Norcold made it to 13+ years so maybe I have 4 years to go if I'm lucky. Then I probable put the whole unit in as I don't expect the shell to last much longer that amount of time.

This thread hijacked or not really turn for the worst from reset the recall box to NoCold is a piece of junk. I know some of you are happy to junk your unit but I for one have no problems with mine other that the recall box tripping while being washed. If my Norcold did go out which is possible as it is going on ten years old in a home that suffers multitude earthquakes per year, I have to weight the pro and cons of going all electric. Absorption refrigeration is well suited for a RV environment. It's made to work on multiple power no matter you are rolling or not. It's best suited when dry camping as it uses very little battery power while using propane for the heat exchanger. The all electric household refrigerator must have 120 voltage to work. The first problem is not only retrofitting the new unit in the RV but to add batteries, inverter and auto start control for the generator. Since the household refrigerator is not design to rock and roll down the road there is a question how long the compressor will last. With the cost of the conversion I can get a new RV refrigerator without modifying the RV and can go with a different name brand if I want to. Bottom line is not scare anyone into replacement

What Jim said, you need a magnet to reset it. Not really getting wet I think soap fumes trips it. Does on mine every time it's washed even being careful not to spray vent so must be the soap.