jleamont

Obedb, call both of their tech departments and ask about the check valve. Both are good companies with good products. I would base my decision on who is the most willing to answer questions and sounds the most knowledgeable. I had to install a check valve as mine was already in the factory design by Cummins internal to my primary filter, when the Davco went in I lost the check valve so I had to put one in so the pump does not dry fire. FYI I have a case of primary filters and the housing if you want it. email me.

Two pass through bays under the coach, the one half is my fold up table and grilling stuff, stacked like a BBQ game of Tetris

DD, 1/2" fuel line out and 5/16 back, what engine do you have? My ISL is 3/4 out and 1/2 return with -8 JIC fittings on the return and -10 JIC fittings on the supply (hydraulic hose plumbing). Noise; same with mine as DD69's pump, I can only hear the pump with the key on engine off inside or standing outside. My pump is mounted in the compartment behind the passenger side front tire under the DW's seat. Cant be bad if she's not complaining .

Obedb, THIS is the thread on redesigning/upgrading the CAPS system. This is the "last post", so it on the third page of posts. Probably reads best if you start on page 1.

Carl, any dates for this? I might actually be able to make this one!

When up in the NY area be careful, I-95 is THE GW bridge! Every GPS on the planet will send you that way. As a rule of thumb in New England and from NJ north for that matter, if you are near ocean you are also in traffic! Unless you are headed to a beach town in New England drive west of the ocean. I refuse to cross the GW in a car and ONLY do it for work when they send me into the Bronx . The recommendations above are spot on. Ill take a nice country drive any day over a city, especially in an RV!

Thanks to Kay I also carry a Traeger portable, I love that thing! I don't like to cook fast, sometimes you need to so I carry a Weber baby Q propane for those moments and a Weber Smokey Joe charcoal for when I want to grill and have the time to. I usually only the Traeger to smoke but on the last trip I also used it as a grill. Other than the price of the pellets it worked great! The propane is great for when you stop along the road, by the time you are done eating it has cooled down and you can put it away. I cooked smoked mac and cheese on the last trip and Chipotle wings on the Traeger, Keon was ranting on how he had to get one for his coach . Here's a link to the Traeger; http://www.traegergrills.com/shop/grills/town-travel-portable-series/ptg/TFT17LLA.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw9_jJBRCXycSarr3csWcSJABthk07WAEsr4oKEsOtgjcyQEFgLWvqdyxRNd31ow90PyhvwRoCbeLw_wcB

When is Syracuse? I just checked the home page, no information on this on FMCA.COM.

Obedb, can you snap a photo of your setup? Or does your fuel filter set up look like this (obviously without the hand primer)? Some just have a block off plate where the primer goes.

Sorry, but that's funny, and I agree with you Tomas24!

Ate a camshaft! To pull the cam you have to pull the heads, to pull the heads you have to remove it from the engine bay . Herman, that engine has the following; Two radiators Four thermostats Two water pumps It literally has a cooling system for the emissions system and a cooling system for the base engine. very complex but surprisingly pretty dependable. The biggest problem...take a look at the cab on the lift, to the left of the radiator you see a rectangle opening, that is the air intake to the engine, when its assembled it sits between the passenger side headlamp and the grill, when you hit a puddle of water it throws water out in front of you, you drive into it, suck it into the air filter and BOOM, Blown engine! I have a customer with Four of these, he has lost 2 engines from this. I told him to stop driving in the rain or avoid puddles on the right side of the road, it wasn't designed for that Honestly, if I was in the market for a Class C I would consider one, just without the overhead bunk. I'm betting there is another way to pull that engine, but the shop manual says to raise the cab, and the cab is designed to come off in under an hour, that is all they would pay if under warranty.

Obedb, the only "piece of mind" in YOUR situation would be to install the hand primer pump from CAT, if it were me I would also install the ball valve as Brett mentioned above as a 2nd line of defense. Should you ever have to change a filter on the road you don't want to be stuck, especially with your experience i.e. you know you can fix it but are missing one that one item that is stopping you. Both projects are pretty minor assuming Tiffin gave you ample space to access the engine. I don't blame you for being a worry wart, I carry this gadget to refill my Davco if I have to change the filter on the road and I have the Davco spanner wrench to do it hanging right next to the housing. Oh, almost forgot spare filters are a must in my opinion in any situation even if your plan is to call road service. If its late in the day they might not be able to get your specific filter. I carry 6 Primary and 2 secondary. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422210_200422210 Mine looks slightly different but the same principal, its a hand siphon pump, you pump the handle and it primes itself, since my one tank fill is right next to the Davco I can fill it easily, plus the Monaco tank is like a saddle tank on a road tractor, I remove the cap and can look inside (no fuel fill tubes between the cap and the tank). I keep this in a small tote under the fuel pump in the front bay. The #2 filter is simple now, turn the key on and wait for the gauge on the dash to stop bouncing. I always think of this kind of stuff and try to plan ahead. I even went as far as replacing the filters this year using only the tools in the coach. Especially since I am still removing gunk from the fuel tank after last years bad fuel episode.

Should have mentioned it before, we have a hardwired one, I discovered it after I had the 1st 50Amp portable. I have no idea if it works or if its an actual EMS or just surge, made by Eaton I believe. I prefer a reading at the tower that I can see immediately. Maybe in the future upgrade with a screen inside would be nice and sell the portables. My fear when they do their job and get destroyed you are tearing the coach apart to replace it. I installed a hard wired one in the last coach (30Amp) and it only lasted 2 weeks, caught a surge and killed it. After what I went through to do the install on a class C I was sold on the portable units. I keep the TRC at home on that tower and the progressive with a chain and lock in the coach for the road. I have found so many problems at campgrounds I check the tower with this gadget first. Also used it to prove to a CG maintenance guy they had a problem after arguing with him for 10 minutes and him telling me my TRC was bad and I should just plug the coach in anyway without it since it wouldn't turn the power onto the coach. https://50amppowerpal.com/ Bill Edwards used it last fall to help with a tower problem he was experiencing and it found the problem, neat tool to have. Once I found out it talks to you, I had to have one

ObedB, that's an incredible distance to cover for a mechanical lift pump mounted so far away from the fuel source. I'm not sure it could handle that task at the RPM its spinning with the starter. I can speak from experience (you also) on a truck its a tough task and the tank isn't but 3-4' from the pump. An electric pump close would be a huge help but a serious modification. My electric pump will not pull fuel into my primary housing and its only 34" on hose between. I believe its due to the Davco design and so much of an air cavity to overcome, thus the reason it has a fill cap on top to prime it. If it were me I would add the factory CAT hand pump primer to the engine. I'm not a fan of prefilling filters unless you plug the center so its all filtered fuel entering the engine, 20+ years ago it probably wouldn't have mattered much, we filled them back then with Automatic transmission fluid, spun them on and started them up, smoke a little but never lost prime . That's what you did in a shop with no fuel available and no trucks in there with saddle tanks.

Speaking for the chassis, decent powertrain as far as dependability goes. They are a bit costly for routine maintenance but not more than you are use to now. The only concern I observed is most serious repairs require the cab to raise for access, with that overhead bunk it could get interesting. Below is a 2016 (same chassis) a friend is working on

Bill, we got burned once by low voltage also (before we bought one). Cost me a new fuse box and ATS and a scar to prove it when I burned my arm on the fuse box it was so hot. Sometimes I'm a bit slow, the smoke and burning electrical was a great indicator it was going to be hot . Unlike Herman I don't have the shirt from it

We always used the TRC model Bill has. The end of last year I bought a Progressive industries from our HR club member that is no longer camping. I like it because it takes up less space on the tower (the TRC would often almost lay on the ground) but what I don't like about the progressive is the plug, depending on the tower it will slightly pull the connection from the tower so I can see all 4 blades, due to the depth the socket is recessed in reference to the base of the tower, I will photo it the next trip. I do like it is able to be secured better. Never had a problem with the TRC and both give you a check when you connect, the TRC you can see both line voltage where the progressive it cycles from one to the other. Both good and have their quarks.

Thank you! Do you have any photos, their website doesn't have many. We are headed that way next year and plan on adding that to my list.

If it doesn't fit through the door go to the emergency exit window, open it up and measure it. I passed one through that and never had to remove any window.

EvansEscapades, does it still roll forward or backwards when you shift into drive or reverse or does it feel like its in neutral? My guess is Rich is spot on with a faulty throttle pedal, I remember reading a common problem with the throttle position switch failing somewhere. If I can locate it I will post back.

Obedb, the HEUI pump pumps oil, not fuel. This explains how it operates. http://www.dieselhub.com/tech/heui.html

No need to bleed the HEUI pump, it will build it on its own (self priming pump) once there is sufficient oil in the system to do so, assuming everything is working properly. Sounds like he is air bound on the fuel side (not the HEUI side), hopefully he has a hand pump primer option.

Bill it's state by state, check this out; http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/ Here a Toad while in tow must follow the same laws as a trailer.

what is the "Roadmaster Air System"? Sounds different from the OP's Roadmasters "Brake master" system. I believe they only make the Brakemaster (OP's original question) and the "Even Brake" system. Even brake is fully proportional, but you have to deal with an air cylinder on the floor, taking it in and out. My friend has one of them.

Great report back! Glad you figured it out. let us know how it goes with the replacement