obedb

I have used a Lucas Power Steering additive that claims to stop leaks. In my case it worked. If it is still available, it might work in your level system if you add the correct amount.

What a sharp looking rig. Is the pickup a 450 or bigger?

Knew a fellow trucker that used his Jake Brake so religiously that he exceeded 400,000 miles between brake jobs. Annoying to run with though.

Oh! By the way. RV owners in the Amarillo area store there units in non temp controlled facilities that have an aluminum awning over the unit. The humidity is quite low there so there is no worry about mold or algae. Some car dealers park there inventory under shelter. Oh? Forgot! Hail Storms can be a problem there. Tons of big rigs trucks run through Amarillo in both directions every day. Gotta be a way with your skills to find employment, and you would be very close to Colorado and northern New Mexico in your attempt to find perfect conditions for RV storage.

Have you considered the possible failure of the on/off switch for the PacBrake? Our's would require a small Phillips screwdriver to be able to lift the switch panel to check the circuit.

Joe/ You will still be a young guy as you look for proper storage for your coach. Job opportunities in the fourth largest metro area (Houston Texas) will probably give you the ability to store your RV under shelter and out of the flood plain. If you desire lower humidity and less mold, consider the DFW area in your search for the perfect storage facility. Good luck.

OK I will try to help. The previous poster is dead on accurate. Unless you have to go through the LA Megaopolis to meet someone or you ar a masochist, leave I-10 in the Palms Springs area and exit north onto CA 62. Turn north in Yucca Valley onto CA 247. Follow that route to Barstow. It makes a hard right in Lucerne Valley north to Barstow. Run I-15 south a couple of exits and exit onto CA58. Take that route west through Bakersfield. If you are one that can follow Highway signs (there are some that depend on GPS systems because they really do not like maps) follow 58 as it exits CA 99. Proceed to I-5 North on your way to San Jose.. By the way, I love maps. Will probably never have a GPS unit before I leave earth. They can get large vehicles into trouble.

I am sorry that I missed this. There are two very good ways to completely avoid the LA area that I have used as a trucker numerous times, but you may already be underway.

As an RV owner I frequently estimate my fuel needs and pay cash at the fuel desk.I have to hurry to the pump before it times out. I usually get a discount for cash. I never had a problem when fueling as a Trucker. Swipe my fuel card along with my rewards card and the pump is on.Could usually go in, find my receipt on a carousel , remove it, and leave without talking to any one or waiting in line. Do miss that convenience, but I will deal with it. After all, I don't use anywhere near the amount I did in an 18 wheeler.

Yes, there a lot of soft spots because of winter rains and I guess seepage. Wendover NV right on the state line has gambling and maybe a park or two. Not far from all of the high speed fun.

Have been through Quartzite many times and the California dunes along I-8 as well. Mostly in the winter. Could see RV's of all types in both places. We have RV'ed since 1986. Neither area looked inviting to me but "one man's trash can be another man's treasure." The photos of the solar panel installation are very good though. Ideal place to have them.

With our first coach, we dry camped probably 80% of the time. Dumped and refilled the fresh water tank for an acceptable price and then headed on to our next remote site. As Rich said, the Flying J is a good choice for a dump and fresh water after you buy fuel or propane. If you are looking for something for nothing can't help you there.

Basement a/c works well on a Greyhound bus. Not so well on an rv unless it is a really high end unit. Have seen and talked with owners working on theirs.. Not so good

Still trying to find some relevance?

MT 421 is not marked for commercial vehicles. I use the Rand McNally Motor Carriers' Road Atlas when routing myself in unfamiliar territory. 421 may be ok but you would have to ask a local or some one that has run it. MT78 is marked for commercial vehicles from Columbus to Red Lodge. My two.

You are welcome. US2 even becomes 4 lane as you approach Stevens Pass.

US2 between Leavenworth WA and I-5 is a beautiful drive. Have even run it in the winter(former trucker). If I found myself in that part of Washington state and wanted to head to the coast, that is the route I would use. We have 330 Cat for power and we tow. The pass is named Stevens. Any other route from Leavenworth to the coast would add many miles to your trip.

If you are able to crawl underneath the engine, look for an electric cord hooked to one side or the other and follow the cord to a possible male connection. In our case, it leaves the passenger side of the engine, crosses underneath the engine, and enters the floor underneath the bed. Lift the bed and there it is. It plugs into a socket that is switch activated outside the bed foundation Just follow the cable to where ever it goes. Really does help a cold start.

My experience with CAT franchises has been positive. The techs know what they are doing. Yes/ their labor rate is well above the rates of nearby "local shops." Bit of a chip there?

Might work/ Casinos in KC Metro. Spent some time in casinos there, but I was trucking. Completely self contained.😎

If you own a motorhome you should know how to use a multimeter. When hooked to park power, check the coach batteries for voltage. Should be at least in the high 13 volt range. Then Check the chassis or starting batteries for voltage. If you have just shut down, your starting batteries should be in the high 12s if your coach does not automatically charge. Then figure out a way to keep the starting batteries charged for lengthy stays. A trickle charger is a good choice. I use a method that our Dear Moderator, Brett warns about. Pull apart a set of jumper cables and use the red cable to hook to the closest positive terminal on house batteries and then hook to the positive terminal on the starting batteries. All of the batteries have a common chassis ground. Works every time for me.

Consider what Joe Leamont suggested. He has been in the business of keeping diesel equipment running for most of his adult life. He currently works for a well known PA trucking company at an executive level. All of the advice offered is worth a try, but the additive Joe linked to would be a simple possible fix.

Fagnami/ great post. Kinda backs up what I experienced in ND. The locals knew what they had to do to keep their diesel rigs working and it is usually a harsh environment in the winter. As a trucker, I looked at the temps I might encounter during travel in really cold country. Most additives were laughed at as mouse milk by drivers (back then) that did not want to shiver inside of a sleeping bag while help might be on the way. I experienced a come to the Lord moment after the ultra low sulfur diesel was introduced. My fuel waxed up overnight. The local racks (and we have two in the Harrisburg area) had not figured out the blend or maybe it was downstream. Don't know, but my rig started, but immediately started to stumble or miss. The owner of the shop where I traded was there trying to start two other trucks. He offered me a bottle of Howes fuel treatment and in a very short time I was running on all cylinders. My day got better, and I kept some handy after that in the winter. I now use PowerService additives. When low sulfur was introduced in the early 1990' s similar problem occurred . Diesel rigs quit running (including MB cars). I was rescued by a good mechanic that time also. Thanks government regulations.

Have not been to Fargo ND in awhile but the Flying J there offered straight #2 Diesel, #1 Diesel (essentially kerosene) and commonly used in in two stroke diesel powered trucks. In the bitter months, reefer tanks ( refrigerated trailers ) because there is very little warmed fuel returned to the fuel tank hanging under the trailer was used as a blend or full kerosene. The J also offered a blend of #1 and #2 for use in either truck tanks and reefer tanks. My point. Kerosene blends have been used in really cold parts of our country for a very long time and truckers wrote the book on COLD when traveling in North Dakota!!! Yes/ there are some really good additives available now, but I don't remember them being accepted or available when I ran the north country. Kerosene should be acceptable for your rig in a blended configuration.

Truckers with the ability to plug a block heater in, leave them on for the few days that they are not running hard to make a living. They get used much more than our toys do and none the worse for the wear. If one decides to leave early, it is nice to know that the engine will enjoy a somewhat easier start.