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I changed one of mine. I hung an electric winch in the rafters and made attachments under each of the 4 mounting screws for the cover. Unbolted everything on the inside and lifted up, drove out and let the old ac to the floor and hooked up the new one and hoisted it up and drove underneath and lowered it down in place. Took about 1/2 hour.

Shore or gen power? Check the voltage at the AC.

I have just been using hydrogen peroxide works perfect and no after taste. Kills things that bleach doesn't.

I just use my iPhone and it talks to me over the dash radio.

What model and how old? Did you check the door seals?

Depends on the road and the state. Usually 65 to 85 feet.

I would not mix brands. I would change both and carry the old front as a spare.

On mine the third wire powers the valve solenoid on the propane line.

Sprint coverage is scarce across the country. I have Verizon and the wife has Sprint. My phone and data coverage are a lot better than hers. Her Sprint in Asia was good as she had unlimited texting including pictures.

Black blocks ultra violet better than white.

I am also an old boater, my lifetime career was repairing boats and RVs. I use the fuel within a year and add Diesel Clean. My overall mileage is between 9.8 and 10.2 mpg. My Silverado is gas so the oem tank is gas. I have been doing this method for some 10 years. I installed an identical 100 gallon second tank behind the original one to double the capacity. Mileage is about the same when I tow my Prius on a dolly so the weight doesn't seem to make a difference.

I use my iPhone. It goes thru my dash radio blue tooth. When it talks it over rides the music to give directions. Been doing this for a couple of years and been working great.

I don't have to drive there because thats where I live. I fill up in town and I can travel more than 2500 miles before I have to buy fuel. 185 gal in the motorhome and 96 in the truck tank. When I'm in the campground if I need fuel I use gas buddy and find the lowest price for diesel. I go for it in my truck and come back and transfer to the motorhome.

Diesel 20 sec ago it was $3.15 at Pilot and $2.77 at Maverick, Smiths, and Zip. This is quite often the case and is the way I have done it for over 40 years. You can see the prices anywhere in the country on Gas Buddy.

I don't buy at P/FJ because their prices are high. At this moment in Lk Havasu City P/FJ is 38 cents higher than 2 other stations. I think that beats a 5 cent discount plus I get my 5% cash back on Visa.

How about Fabreeze?

Try the salvage yards.

When I was an Onan dealer we would use a outboard fuel tank with reg gas and a primer bulb. If the unit ran fine we would replace the fuel line all the way to the tank. If it faltered running on the aux tank we would use the primer bulb. If it ran ok then there would be something wrong in the fuel delivery system. Most of the time it was a crack in the fuel line.

I prefer to use my own visa card because I get 5% cash back. I use gas buddy to locate the least expensive diesel in the area and pick it up with my Silverado 96 gal tank and transfer it to the motorhome that way it doesn't make any difference if its a small station. Usually stations with the least expensive fuel have a good turnover in volume of fuel. They are usually priced 20-40 cents lower. I also don't buy fuel from a station that refuses to fly the American flag because it might offend someone. To each his own.

If you leave the black tank open the solids will build a mountain. Depending how deep the tank is it can pile up and close off the outlet of the toilet.

Fuel is quite often the problem. When I was an Onan dealer we would hook up an outboard fuel tank with a hose and primer bulb and straight gas. If the gen would start to die we would hit the primer bulb. It seemed most of the time it would run fine pointing to a problem in the fuel system. Most to the time it was a cracked fuel line. We live in Az so our temps are somewhat warmer than the rest of the country.

I think I would install a much larger filter and run it, changing or cleaning it as required. At some point all the loose rust will come out and if you figure out where the rust came from and correct that it shouldn't be a problem in the future. Your going to have to figure that out even if you install a new tank.

Are you looking for the sensor and cable with plug? The sensor is a friction fit. I should have one.

I believe that is correct. The sensor is on the outside of the insulation. The problem is that the crystals are starting to form because the temp is too high. The temp rises with just a slight off level. With the temp sender located on the boiler tube you can watch the temp rise with just a small tilt. We had a demo fridge which we tilted with a block of wood and watched the temp rise almost instantly. The damage is accumulative so you don't know its happening until its too late.

The reason the ARP unit works and the Norcold doesn't is the location of the sensor. ARP sensor is directly attached to the boiler and that location is patented so nobody else can locate it there. It shuts off the heat source (flame or ac element) when the boiler temp reached about 360. The stock sensor from Norcold is located on the outside of the insulation which is much slower to react. I tried to sell the rights to Norcold so they could install the ARP at the factory but was told by engineering that what they have works fine and not need to change it. If you want to keep your rv fridge then I would recommend installing a Fridge Defend (ARP) unit.