desertdeals69

My understanding is you must be a Freightliner Club member to get the discount.

Not only that but the year end kickback for total vehicles sold, thats why dealerships are eager to wholesale large number of vehicles to up the count.

What was the original tire size when new?

Does the motor have power to it?

Is the vibration at wheel speed or 3-4 times faster which might be driveshaft speed?

Yes be sure you tanks are dry. It is possible that they are almost full of water which will reduce the air space and the volume of air used to release the brake uses up all your air.

You made some good points. My test was that the water had awful smell coming out of the rinser, Bleach wouldn't eliminate it for more than a few days. Hydrogen peroxide did.

To each his own. I don't like the taste of bleach and the way I've been doing it the last 10+ years along with hundreds of others suits me just fine.

I think it would be better to replace it with the correct alt rather than try to rewire the wrong one.

I don't drain the remainder of the 15 gal, I just fill the tank. Hydrogen peroxide is safe to drink, you can even brush your teeth with it!

Probably jammed up or bad motor.

The only cabin filter I know of is the one on the air intake of the roof AC.

By my own tests I determined that it works. Newmar had a seminar on the subject and recommended the usage of hydrogen peroxide for sanitation. I had a kitchen sink faucet rinser hose that the water coming from the hose stunk really bad. I treated it with bleach and it seemed to clean it up but in a few days the odor would return. I treated it with hydrogen peroxide and the smell went away and was still gone 6 years later when I sold the coach. I talked with a water sanitation engineer at a chemical plant and aaked him about it and he said they use it all the time. The way I use it is to drain the fresh water tank and fill the hose with 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide and then hook it up to the faucet. Fill the tank with about 15 gallons. Run all the faucets cold and hot more on the hot (to flush the hot water heater) and let it sit for about an hour. Then I fill to what ever capacity I need and go on my trip.

I like M&G system for brakes, no electrics involved.

Has it done this all the time? It might be wired that way so you don't drive away with the jacks down.

I would only consider a diesel.

I replaced my almost new 6 AGM batteries with 4 Battle Born lithium 100 amp batteries. With the same load they last over twice as long and recharge in half the time. They weigh lass than 1/2 the weight at 30 lbs each.

Was the scales level front to back and side to side? Very important for accuracy. When mine was weighed the scales were shimmed with a laser level. Being off level can change the weight hundreds of pounds.

I have driven I40 from start to finish several times since the mid 70s and there seems to always be bad spots. I think I have been on all the coast to coast roads and some time in my 400K miles touring the country. All roads have rough spots and in the summer its hot in the southwest. I try to go to cooler places when its hot at home. I'm in Hawaii now, it was 117 when I left Lk Havasu City.

Have the engine steam cleaned and then drive it a few miles and you should be able to see where the oil is coming from.

How is the level on the dip stick?

Should be an adjustment for the cable on the end of the cylinder.

Sorry for your trouble. The Flair is one of the lowest of the entry level models they make. If you go up a few models they are about average. I have an older Fleetwood Discovery that is fairly well built.

I changed one of mine. I hung an electric winch in the rafters and made attachments under each of the 4 mounting screws for the cover. Unbolted everything on the inside and lifted up, drove out and let the old ac to the floor and hooked up the new one and hoisted it up and drove underneath and lowered it down in place. Took about 1/2 hour.

Shore or gen power? Check the voltage at the AC.