desertdeals69

The Onan carb does not come apart like a normal carb. For the most part its pressed together and you destroy it if you take it apart. We were in that business for some 20 years with hundreds of carbs experiences. W

It could the carb. If fuel was not treated and is old chances are you have a plugged oriface. When we were an Onan dealer it was less expensive to replace the carb with a new one than to try to repair the old one. Success rate was less than 50% and with the cost of labor It made a better choice.

I've been doing it that way for over 40 years.

When the inner dual blew did you run any distance. If you did more than a few feet the outer dual is also toast. Your tires are over 6 years old so I would replace all. I have been using Toyos at about 2/3 the cost of Michelins.

The OP was about storage maintenance not after a days usage. In your case just get a smart charger

That is correct. Why wouldn't start with a full charge to begin with?

I use an inexpensive battery maintainer from Harbor Freight for my chassis batteries. Float charge from the inverter for the house Lithiums.

I installed Koni shocks on my Discovery and what a difference in the ride. I have some 115K miles on the original shocks.

I did not give a description of the timer mechanism. What I was saying is if you monitor the current to the defroster heater, assuming they are ok, then you can tell where the problem is. Measure the current and time to verify the circuit.

About 5 years ago I had my ISB quit running and wouldn't restart. I was about 150 mile east of Kingman Az on I40. I called my insurance company State Farm and they had a roll back come and pick it up in about 3 hours. I drove my tow car which was on a dolly back to Kingman behind the tow truck. Everything went like clockwork.

It might be the defrost timer. Seen that before.

You need to correct the communication problem between the dish and receiver. Make sure the dish is locked on the right satellite.

I would never store an RV without using a garage or at least a roof. My last 3 motorhomes have been in the garage I built in 88. They don't deteriorate like when left outside.

I think Aquinby3 is referring to the members stoppin' spots listing in the Jan issue of the magazine.

If it takes more time to do the same job because its a motorhome you should pay more but not more per hour just more because of more time.

I would think that if the charger is in the float mode it wouldn't be charging 45 amps.

What is the pressure and volume of the campground water?

If they are over 5-6 years old replace them.

What is wrong with the jack?

Are they all electric?

I was in Cheyenne the day it pulled into there to start its rebuilding.

I installed a Haier 9.8 in my coach about 3 years ago and the compressor failed in 7 months running on a pure sine wave inverter. The factory said there is no warranty when installed in a motorhome. I put the Dometic back in and later sold the motorhome. My current coach had a Dometic side by side and was 32 inches wide. I installed a Insignia brand 10 cu ft with freezer on the bottom and built a slide out pantry using the rest of the width. I run a pure sine wave Xantrex 3000 watt inverter. You could run a 400 watt pure sine wave inverter and wire it directly to the fridge so thats the only thing running off of it.

You will lose about 1/2 volt through a diode. Its not comparable to judge the brightness from the truck when its running to when you are powering the lights from the motorhome. You have 13.5 to 14.3 volts from the truck vs the same voltage from the motorhome but the 35 to 45 feet of number 16 or 18 gauge wire drops the voltage.

You need to weigh your coach. Then look up the correct pressure according to the tire mfg specs. The factory weight is probably not correct.

I would check the battery voltage when the pump is running.