rayin

I forgot; the 120V side has 2 120V heaters. if one has failed the unit will not cool properly. It's all explained in detail in the service manual.

There's the rub, "brand name". Similar to buying Michelin tire vs Hercules tires. For used units, visit different RVing websites for sale section. Whirlpool makes a small stacked washer/dryer with 120V dryer if you have the height capability.

It depends entirely upon what browser the programmer writes the software for.. For Instance, the DoD says they do not support FireFox web browser, yet when I use FF to access the website it works, just not as well as Chrome, for which, the software was written.

Hang in there Ross. Detached retina's are fixable. I had a severe blow to my head about 8 years ago. Next day saw my eye Dr. He immediately sent me to a specialist in Greenwood who used laser surgery to reattach both retinas. My eyesight is as good now as before that accident. Kinda freeked me out, he did the laser surgery while I was awake.

I'm happy for you Ross. We're still in limbo with repairing our MH after 7 months of it parked at the body shop. By the time we do get it back, we too may be unable to use our MH.

WELCOME TO THE FMCA DISCUSSION FORUMS! As soon as you provide the make/model/year of your RV we can proceed with diagnosing and finding a method or replacing your drain hose. Otherwise, we have no clue.

Both cooling modes require 12V to operate the controls, so that is not the problem. I would first determine if the outlet the fridge is plugged into indeed has 120V present. If that outlet test good for 120VAC, next in line is the control board. If you are not experienced working with 120VAC here is where I would stop. If you are handy working with 120V, follow the troubleshooting tree in the service manual. This might be useful: Norcold 12xx service manual

Armstrong tires were very popular years ago. Their slogan was "Armstrong tires grip the road". Today newer brands have the spotlight.

Page 22 of the Dometic 7000/8000 service manual is the wiring diagram.

Thanks for that. I've already triggered the arbitration clause (3rd party estimate). I hire an independent appraiser, Progressive does the same. If the two cannot reach an agreement a court appoints an arbitrator. I do have the Indiana Insurance commissioners phone# handy JIC. Today I spoke with the Progressive dept. head of adjusters, he was not at all like the local adjuster, who was arrogant and actually threatening. The local adjuster almost demanded I take my MH back to the first body shop I visited because he had an arrangement with them.(steering is illegal in Indiana)

Yes, Jim. The body shop had began repairs, then the adjuster stopped them and tried to renegotiate the estimate, with long time lapses between phone calls.This means the body shop will not release my MH until their work to date is paid for, and the Progressive addjuster said they will not pay the daily storage fee until this is settled. Right now the adjuster says he will not pay any more than HIS estimate, which is ½ of the body shop estimate. At this point, I'm frustrated and upset.Progressive appears to have a great reputation in the RVing world. Lack of frequent communication on my part is part of the delay. I activated the 3rd party appraisal clause today under the policy terms and conditions

UPDATE: This week the body shop called, the adjuster changed his mind and decided not to pay the amount of the estimate. Now I'm in limbo until things are sorted out. It's been 6 months and nothing accomplished. I called my local agent and he bypassed the appraiser by directly talking to the Progressive manager for Indiana. I was advised, after consulting with someone else to tell Progressive exactly this; "I wish t invoke the 3rd party appraisal clause". I did so, and the Progressive rep suddenly changed his speaking tone and said he will get back with me ASAP. Almost back to square one? Worse than square one_. Drat.

To me, that sounds like a corroded battery cable connection, either on the battery or genset end of the connections. Remove, clean, re-install all wiring connections, especially the ground side of the circuit.

I assume you are not on shore power when attempting to start the genset. That eliminates the converter from the issue. Now it's down to testing to insure battery cable connections are clean and tight. Begin at the battery bank, removing, cleaning, reinstalling each connection at battery bank, then trace the cables to the genset starter solenoid doing the same cleaning/reinstalling thing.. Pay attention to the ground cables, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground, which is half of a 12V circuit. If you see 12V at the solenoid(large terminal) from the battery, test for a 12V signal from the genset start button at the solenoid ( a small terminal). No start signal, test switch. BTW, most circuit breakers must be pushed hard to off to reset the breaker, you will feel the spring resistance, then to on. But that has nothing to do with genset engine not turning over.

Although not as handy, I've overnighted in vacant church parking lots for a rest.

This is a valve stem to fit both rim hole sizes. The adapter grommet is atop the stem resting on the retaining nut. It replaces the smaller grommet shown assembled. Amazon.com: CKAuto 4 Pieces TR416 Metal Valve Stems Outer Mount Fits .453" & .625" Rim Holes Long 1 1/2", Silver : Automotive Then there is the old-style retainer for.812 diameter truck rim holes and farm tractor rear tires :HALTEC Valve System: 0.812 in Rim Hole Size, 3/4 in Lg, 11/16"-16 Thread Size, For Truck Tires, Brass - 48WC40|H-41 - Grainger

OK, thanks for the edification.

Humm, Wayne you've been left hanging.

I have found rockauto.com best for purchasing wiper blades. Do not search by vehicle but rather the actual part and length. A few years ago I bought replacement 28" wiper blades(not refills) from them for under $5 each.

I cannot find a Coleman 700, I did find a Coleman 7000, which is an obsolete unit. Can you post a picture of the disconnected wires? Your pictures show a properly connected unit. As bill asked, can you match wire color codes and reconnect the wiring?

If a switch hums it is likely due to burned or ill-fitting contacts. Any contacts/mating conductors must have a clean solid contact to eliminate as much resistance as possible. That is why you see the caution on RVing forums not to switch power sources when high-amperage appliances are running. That higher current burns contacts.

Yup, aluminum rims have the measurements stamped on the inner side of the rim. Steel rims are stamped on the inside of the rim, covered by the tire when mounted.

Brand and model of A/C unit?

That is pretty neat IMO. Not to be confused with the OTR trucker reservations system for electricity so the power unit may be shut off for the rest period; as many areas now have no idling laws.

Dual tire spacing; this should be informative: https://www.doublecointires.com/wp-content/uploads/Double-Coin-Dual-Spacing-InfoSheet.pdf Back many decades ago I drove a dump truck hauling coal for my uncle. Back then the rule of thumb was 1.5" between tires at bottom low point so rocks/lumps of coal would not lodge between the tires. Today I'm told that has been reduced to 1" between tire sidewalls on bottom of tires.