rayin

Yup,; if electric is not available, just fully-charge them then remove the ground cables, the batteries will still have 3/4 charge after 6 months- providing they are in good condition now.

Bill is right,. blue locktite allows the screws to be removed. Do not use red locktite, the only way it comes loose with high heat- like 500°.

He said his leveling system is manual only, meaning your automatic system is not the same model. What is the make/model of your leveling system?

At $547.33 each, I believe I'd rebuild the present one. If a rebuild fails, then grab your credit card. FWIW, I fixed my dump valve by simply removing the compressed air intake line and adding a few drops of air tool oil. I guess it lubricated the O-rings and seals enough to stop the air leaking. (do not use motor oil)

No-one is going to twist your arm to purchase an emergency roadside assistance contract. It's solely your decision. I don't understand your misery loves company outlook. Buying an emergency roadside assistance contract is like buying a personal health insurance policy in that who you buy from and plan contents vary widely, and how much risk you are willing to assume. For instance, I've used my Good Sam ERS policy 2 times during this pandemic. For the two years the premium total was #360, the total expenses GS paid out was just under $3,000 for both wrecker services required. The first tow required two wreckers, a small one to tow our MH out of the CG, then a tandem axle wrecker to tow it 60 miles to Cummins Great Plains. Yes it was a long wait, the only wrecker service that was large enough to do the job was another 40 miles in the opposite direction of Cummins Great Plains.

I agree with Bill; If your differential is greater than what Cummins specifies, the CAC is not doing its job. The coolant radiator is not part of that system.

I used to cover our 40' 5er with a tarp, but you had to pick your battles. As the guys said, even a gentle breeze can easily get under the cover and pull you off the roof, and it happens so quickly by the time you realize what is happening it's almost too late. That's when I began covering the 5er when there was no wind, instead of when it was convenient for me. I was 68 the last time that happened. It caused me to re-think using a cover over the 5er. I called and had a 60'x40'x15' pole barn RV garage built the next spring. This year I'm 80, I still climb on the MH roof but without a parasail. As ernee alluded to, they are designed to be outside.

IMO any grinding noise is NOT normal. Is your Jeep equipped with a manual transfer case shifter or electric? DW used to have an old 1997 Jeep GC we towed, and the automatic transmission had to be in neutral to manually shift the transfer case to neutral/tow position or the gears would grind. Her 2017 has electronic transfer case shifting, it's never made a noise-yet. It has a pin-hole to shift into neutral that accepts a ball-point pen.

"Steering wheel cocked to the right". That indicates the thrust-angle(dog-tracking) is incorrect. Look it up. I had a total alignment performed on our MH, the thrust angle was out by 3/4". Afterwards our MH drove much better and fuel mileage slightly improved.

I would not hesitate to purchase a MH with a basement A/C again. Yes, new replacement units are still available. Our MH is in my signature, we've owned it since 2013. Our Colman-Mach 24,000btu heat pump has performed flawlessly since purchase. I suppose since our MH is white makes a difference. We've never had a problem with cooling, in any heat range. IMO what makes the most difference is replacing the household-type air filter(I immediately threw the green mesh away) frequently, otherwise dirt, animal hair, etc. pass through and mat-over the evaporator coil. That severely limits capacity and effectiveness.

First I've heard of this. Scammers are like flies, they're everywhere and annoying. IMO, that deposited check, might have cracked opened a back-door into their bank account. If I get anything unsolicited, I call the company directly and ask, or simply trash it.

fad, pg 287 of your owners manual has the "specific procedure".

I'll add this: https://campgrounds.rvlife.com/ It used to be rvparkreviews.com until rvlife bought the website. Here you may read what previous site renters have to say. A free trip router app is https://truckerpath.com/ designed for commercial trucks, however it only chooses routes safe for semi's, which means the route is safe for all MH sizes too.

I have found errors in all online towing guides, they are unreliable IMO. The only accurate source is the specific owners manual.

Hope you also replace the temperature sender at the same time. Its location dictates the genset must be removed from the RV too.

Apparently both CG's in Bryce Canyon NP are open: https://www.nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm

Apparently you're out of luck until you locate that neutral tow kit. The owners manual refers you to a dealer for more information, which is odd. Normally the owners manual states all the details. Everything I find on the web is for 2007 or 2005 and earlier. No mention of 2006. This might help too: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/ext4r-noticed-neutral-tow-module-2007-explorer.html and https://www.fixya.com/cars/t4057669-ford_part_6l2z_7h332_nutral_tow_kit Also, there's a lot more information on a different RVing forum about the 2006 Ford neutral tow kit.

There is only 2 FHU RV parks on S. Padre Island, the rest are "close" to the island. I think there are a couple on N. Padre island too. This explains dry camping on the island: https://www.nps.gov/pais/planyourvisit/camping.htm Since dry camping is 12 miles from everything else, if/when you get stuck it's going to be expensive getting towed back to hard surface roads. All the other information is here: https://www.campendium.com/texas/south-padre-island FWIW, we did stay on the beach for a week. Really regretted it when we got back home in the spring. EVERYTHING steel was rusted, ruined both bicycles. Truck frame rusted really bad. All the sand contains salt.

Welcome to the club Top!

It's beginning to look like we'll get it back just in time to winterize it; the shop just began the painting prep process last Monday.

Consider joining this FMCA chapter: http://alfaseeyas.com/ I"m confident you'll find a member that can supply you with a copy.

I'm sorry to read of your circumstances. I like your approach to handling what life dishes up; it is what it is and I'll deal with it. A professor once told me; tomorrow isn't here yet so all we can do is plan for its coming, yesterday is past and we can't change it, we can only control today.

Google is your friend for something like this; the results depend on how and which search terms are used.

IMO grease temperature rating and grade are the most important. Some grease types are not recommended for the automatic slack adjusters, but as far as I know S-cams are not included. #2 grease is soft so it will fill voids, which eliminates the chance of water collecting and causing damage. ref: https://www.bendix.com/media/documents/press_releases/2015/TechTip_S_CamMaint_FINAL0615.pdf NLGI consistency table NLGI number ASTM worked penetration (10–1 mm) Appearance at room temperature 000 445–475 very fluid 00 400–430 fluid 0 355–385 semi-fluid 1 310–340 very soft 2 265–295 soft 3 220–250 medium hard 4 175–205 hard 5 130–160 very hard

Saferide RV motorclub is the current FMCA ERA provider. The policy contract states; quote: "Benefit does not apply to recovery work (IE: RV is down a hillside or embankment) or if the RV has been in an accident."