rayin

To me, that sounds like a corroded battery cable connection, either on the battery or genset end of the connections. Remove, clean, re-install all wiring connections, especially the ground side of the circuit.

I assume you are not on shore power when attempting to start the genset. That eliminates the converter from the issue. Now it's down to testing to insure battery cable connections are clean and tight. Begin at the battery bank, removing, cleaning, reinstalling each connection at battery bank, then trace the cables to the genset starter solenoid doing the same cleaning/reinstalling thing.. Pay attention to the ground cables, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground, which is half of a 12V circuit. If you see 12V at the solenoid(large terminal) from the battery, test for a 12V signal from the genset start button at the solenoid ( a small terminal). No start signal, test switch. BTW, most circuit breakers must be pushed hard to off to reset the breaker, you will feel the spring resistance, then to on. But that has nothing to do with genset engine not turning over.

Although not as handy, I've overnighted in vacant church parking lots for a rest.

This is a valve stem to fit both rim hole sizes. The adapter grommet is atop the stem resting on the retaining nut. It replaces the smaller grommet shown assembled. Amazon.com: CKAuto 4 Pieces TR416 Metal Valve Stems Outer Mount Fits .453" & .625" Rim Holes Long 1 1/2", Silver : Automotive Then there is the old-style retainer for.812 diameter truck rim holes and farm tractor rear tires :HALTEC Valve System: 0.812 in Rim Hole Size, 3/4 in Lg, 11/16"-16 Thread Size, For Truck Tires, Brass - 48WC40|H-41 - Grainger

OK, thanks for the edification.

Humm, Wayne you've been left hanging.

I have found rockauto.com best for purchasing wiper blades. Do not search by vehicle but rather the actual part and length. A few years ago I bought replacement 28" wiper blades(not refills) from them for under $5 each.

I cannot find a Coleman 700, I did find a Coleman 7000, which is an obsolete unit. Can you post a picture of the disconnected wires? Your pictures show a properly connected unit. As bill asked, can you match wire color codes and reconnect the wiring?

If a switch hums it is likely due to burned or ill-fitting contacts. Any contacts/mating conductors must have a clean solid contact to eliminate as much resistance as possible. That is why you see the caution on RVing forums not to switch power sources when high-amperage appliances are running. That higher current burns contacts.

Yup, aluminum rims have the measurements stamped on the inner side of the rim. Steel rims are stamped on the inside of the rim, covered by the tire when mounted.

Brand and model of A/C unit?

That is pretty neat IMO. Not to be confused with the OTR trucker reservations system for electricity so the power unit may be shut off for the rest period; as many areas now have no idling laws.

Dual tire spacing; this should be informative: https://www.doublecointires.com/wp-content/uploads/Double-Coin-Dual-Spacing-InfoSheet.pdf Back many decades ago I drove a dump truck hauling coal for my uncle. Back then the rule of thumb was 1.5" between tires at bottom low point so rocks/lumps of coal would not lodge between the tires. Today I'm told that has been reduced to 1" between tire sidewalls on bottom of tires.

WELCOME TO THE FMCA DISCUSSION FORUMS! Open drain valve for fresh water tank, remove drain plug from water heater, open low-point drains, open all faucets, including outside shower. This allows water to drain away, however, it does not mean ALL water has drained away. Although the website does not go back to 1993, https://www.safaritrektalk.com/manuals-diagrams has information about Safari Trek MH's, including an owners manual. I suggest visiting/joining the FMCA Safari owners group too.

I agree with five; it's like dental insurance, you don't need it until you do.

Your description sound like you lost all 12V power. Have you tested with a multimeter for 12V presence? This is all I found searching for Frigi-Cool: https://www.bizapedia.com/tx/frigicool-inc.html I doubt it would be the blower motor resistor, but we never know until we test.

Even with disconnect switches from the mfgr. batteries may not be totally isolated. Things like LP detectors are wired directly to the battery, and are powered continually. Removing the negative battery cables is the only sure way to disconnect batteries.

Roger as always has excellent advice. I might offer an addition to his advice. Once you have the tire serial numbers go to the mfgrs website and register them. The website explains the benefits.

Topic discussed here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/cancellation-of-tcs-cards-accounts-596733.html

Hydraulic or electric slide mechanism? Brand/ model?

Hello Bill, Sorry to read of your jack problem. Is the brand HWH? If so this will help your accurately identify the model of your leveling system. When you know your model # simply run a search for the service manual for that model. HWH includes a troubleshooting section in every service manual. From what you've described the shuttle valve has stopped working. It moves between two positions to either allow oil to flow back into the reservoir or the other position allows pressurized oil to extend jack cylinders. It's all in the service manual)

Have you considered designing your own table-top, buying a chrome leg and using this portable stand: https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/Tripod-Folding-Table-Base_p_127.html Then these for custom vans are available: https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/Wood-Drink-Trays_c_82.html Where there is a will, there is a way.

Cummins does have a "fix" for the ISX, the guy on irv2.com outlined it in one of his posts about 3 years ago. The fix was part of the $34K he spent for rebuilds. All I remember is it involved a new head design, can't remember the rest.

I agree with Bill. That bottom fitting appears to be cross-threaded, or an optical illusion in the picture. Once cross-threaded, plastic threads are difficult to correct, but possible. Teflon tape might help.

Right! There;'s a guy on irv2.com who has this engine in his MH. Last I read of his trials and tribulations, he was out-of-pocket $34,000 for 2 engine rebuilds, even after Cummins paid $10,000 on the first rebuild. The 650 HP version was only available in the MH version. The man explained in detail what happened to his ISX, both times. Even on the trucking forums, there are posts detailing semi-tractor ISX failures during the early models. Now the ISX engine MH version is limited to 600 HP I think. Cummins supposedly found the cause of the failures and made corrections.