rayin

There are several things one can do to improve operation of an absorption refrigerator. My Norcold 1200LRIM is a 1999 model and still running great. Residential refrigerators have been used by RV mfgrs. long enough now that we are seeing failures being discussed with them too. The first thing with an absorption (any actually) refrigerator is to adhere to the mfgrs. annual maintenance schedule. They have a much slower recovery-rate than a compressor refrigerator, which means little things are more important, like maintaining the seals, cleaning the heating chamber annually, not holding the doors open while deciding what it desired, keeping the "chimney" clean, vents clear, etc.

FYI, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground. Like Herman said, inspect all wiring connections for a clean solid contact. I've seen female blade contacts lose their spring tension, allowing a poor connection. In fact I had one last winter, step cover would not extend, I found a loose connection on the rocker switch.

I never have a problem replying to a thread unless the member has not completed their signature that appears below their post. For instance read my signature and all your questions are answered about my MH. If yo would like to complete your signature, click on your name it the top right corner of this page and follow the links.

Actually it is a NON-CDL license, a true Commercial Drivers License and physical is only required when driving for profit or hire. That's how the guys who tow a 5er with a semi-tractor are handled. I really do think something more than a standard auto license should be required, especially for a diesel pusher with air brakes. OTOH, I really don't like government continually digging deeper into my life.

Joe, they are not however, ever at a loss for words_.

When did you last read the fine print in the contract you agreed to? Yes it is a contract with terms and conditions. ERS offered you a tow and you refused, that IMO terminated the claim. If they sent the wrong provider and were unable to locate one capable, that is their lacking. Virtually roadside assistance sellers require the operator to call around and locate the lowest bid for that particular assistance call among their list of providers. Another item; The operator you speak with only knows to read what is on the monitor in front of them. If you aren't satisfied, ask to speak with a supervisor, they do know their job. It may not be too late, call again and request to speak with a supervisor, then ask how to submit a claim after the fact. Be sure to explain all the details with patience. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

Make sure they are inflated to sidewall listed pressure, and do not tow over the maximum sustained speed limit.

This is the latest news about the DEF head failure problem: https://www.rvtravel.com/motorhomers-alert-epa-proposes-def-derate-rules-1052b/ This is the basis for the rvtravel article: https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=365521&d=1652623547

Did you ever get it fixed? Your question got lost in another persons replies.

I also wonder about the status of the NHTSA complaint group- filing. There is a work-around that appears to have the blessing of NHTSA if a new replacement head is unavailable. I'm just happy I drive this MH without the emissions stuff.

Sounds right to me, that eliminates backfeeding.

Did you look up the troubleshooting chart in the service manual for your specific HWH model? It's all under the link I provided for HWH. That is odd about Stewarts Services, they've always been great for getting jacks reworked. That AP number is not your leveling system ID, did you open the 2nd link for identification?

Yes I picked up all the fiberglass parts and pieces and brought them home in the pickup bed. That was the first question the body shop asked, "did you save the pieces? Without them reconstruction is next to impossible, as new parts cannot be found". wildbill, All the damage is below the windshields as far as the body shop can determine before the damaged fiberglass parts are removed. I'm confident once the fiberglass damage is repaired and repainted, repairs will be undetectable to the average person. Of course a body man will be able to see repairs have been performed. A side note; the shop owner told me working with fiberglass was easy for his crew, as most of them were MH owners.

Look at auto pin striping and see if you get an idea. I am thinking black gloss pin striping might look OK if you have a steady hand and good eye.

Yes, that's the plan so far. latest estimate is $13K. I spoke with the adjuster this morning. We're awaiting word from the body shop to take it to them.

If you have the skill set; I'd first check the ATS/ automatic transfer switch for voltage and proper functioning. What happens when you run the genset?

$6K is outrageous IMO. Look for a different shop. As to rebuilding your old untis, I suspect you'll find the expense is about the same as buying new labor ya know. This is an example of how much a roof unit costs: https://www.rvpartscountry.com/dometic-brisk-2-air-rv-ac-15000-top-unit-white.html Two complete new units for $1,623. If you have enough help you can replace the units yourself by downloading the instructions from https://bryantrv.com/docs.html#airconditioner

Questions; is the oil reservoir full when jacks are retracted? Is the oil clean and clear? BTW, NEVER use hydraulic oil in the HWH system. First comes HWH hydraulic basics then HWH system identification. For specific questions I recommend calling Stewarts Services, the largest HWH repair center outside the factory . You need your model # before calling.

Well, there is an upside to my front cap damage. The MH will be in the body shop for at least a month; with present diesel fuel prices, I'll be able to save enough money not buying fuel to pay all out-of-pocket expenses.

First we need; your camping style, do you need to be in a city with nearby shopping, etc. Those type answers will determine where to focus our recommendations. You may stay at an RV park in an "urban corrodor" ($1,300/month) or in the center between the ocean and gulf($600/month).

Jezz, and I thought $3,600 was a lot for the towing package in 2013. My local auto mechanic was also a Blue Ox installer, I bought everything + installation from him.

For the older P30, P32 chassis only(pre 2000); this is an unsorted collection of manuals, documentation, and misc. http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/3731087061/p/1

DB get read for very heavy traffic in FL. When we came home it took me 7 hrs. to drive 250 miles on I 75.

FWIW, GM is rumored to have issued a stop-sales order on their heavy duty trucks, something to do with the Durmax and hydrolocking. https://washingtonnewspost.com/news/auto/gm-reportedly-issues-stop-sale-order-on-heavy-duty-trucks/

Welcome to the club Chris! Thank you for your dedication to our great nation.