rayin

Almost half the way down the page is a diagram showing how to connect 2 6V batteries to make 1 12V battery. http://manmrk.net/tutorials/RV/12voltSideofLifePart1.htm P.S. Next time take a picture of the cable connections and routing before removing anything. Been there done that_.

After the pothole incident a minor problem appeared. the air-powered step cover would extend but not retract. Today I deduced the retract 12V solenoid on the 3-way valve was not clicking. Drat, was it a bad solenoid on the valve? Then the KISS principle took over, I removed the rocker switch that controlled the cover and sure enough the retract wire had been disconnected by the jar. I pushed the wire connection back on and the step operates normally both directions. KISS hard at work_again, that took me 12 minutes.

AWW Bill, that takes all the fun out of the hunt. Mine has labeled circuit breakers instead of fuses.

Now is a waiting game, the body shop and adjuster are searching for good used cap sections and panels for our MH. Adjuster said my front cap was too smashed to repair. It makes the search more difficult when the Winnebago Ultimate Freedom was only made from 1999.5-2004.5, Between the Ultimate Freedom and Ultimate Advantage only 428 were produced. I'm about sick over this, I had nearly everything in tip top shape. I sure hope Wayne's experience repeats with me.

I recently read a post on a different forum about a guy changing the belt himself. He used duct tape to hold the new belt onto pulleys so he could then get underneath to use a breaker bar to hold the tensioner away enough to slip the belt on that idler pulley. BTW, you might find this informative about installing a new belt tensioner at the same time:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8pQT3YZAwo

Call the main FMCA office number to see if that company is valid. I've never even heard of that company. I suggest contacting wholesalewarranties.com and Good Sam, reputable companes IMO. An exclusionary ESC is preferable, it names what is NOT covered, everything else is covered. I bought the optional gaskets and seals rider, otherwise if a gasket/seal fails, oil leaks out and ruins the component, any consequential damage is not covered.

Yes, This spring I stopped at one RV park on the way home, the clerk noticed my retired Army hat and said, " you get a 20% discount for being a veteran". Yaaa! I made sure I policed my site before we left.

The only downside is very minor, you lose your radio presets, takes all of 5 minutes to re-enter them. I've never noticed any difference in transmission shifting or engine performance. My disconnected battery bank is at 3/4 charge level next spring. Then again, my LA house battery bank is only 6 years old..

Is this the worlds largest weather vane?

Exactly! Intentionally raising the center of gravity is not a sound idea IMO. We don't know how much air pressure is normally registering on the gauges, that has it's own subset of questions.

I'm amazed that wood paneling is in such good condition, is it original? Apparently the coach has been well cared for over the years.

Thank you for that information Wayne! That would be great for us. Everything below the windshields must be repaired/replaced. I've not found any damage to the windshields or gaskets - yet. The Allison cast aluminum pan also struck that concrete apron while getting across the water-filled pothole. There is no ATF leakage or motor oil leakage, hopefully that remains the same. The pothole couldn't have been too deep or the rear wheels would''ve lost traction in the mud.

I think I remember seeing some manuals or pdf's on the http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/3731087061/p/1 website for the Flixable motor-homes. That seems like a good resource for MH's made in the 20 century.

It''s not foam, just black/brown dirt, and only from the starboard side vent. I agree Jim, Progressive might choose to total the MH. A new Xantrex 2000W inverter costs approx. $3k; add in the cost of repairing or replacing the body parts, then labor, whew. wildbill, both sides (containing headlights) are also damaged in addition to the genset panel and door panel.

What oil grade is recommended in your owners manual? Harder working engines usually require a heavier grade of oil. Then again, it might be a faulty oil pressure sender.

I suspect a faulty transfer switch or burned contacts if all breakers are working properly. Have you tested for 120VAC at the power cord from the genset (inside the transfer switch box)? Do not switch power sources when large appliances are running, it can cause arcing between the contacts, which then eventually causes failure. DISCLAIMER If you are unsure of your ability to perform such a test, call a professional!

I don't know yet. I take the MH to IBW next week for evaluation in advance of an estimate, and inspection by a Progressive adjuster. I think they might go with buying a used front cap from visionrv.com and repainting it to match my MH. Both sides must be repaired or replaced too.

Yup, the two intact center sections and the small part of the section that mounts inf front of the genset. I think it can all be repaired by a good glass man. I'm having the repairs done at Indiana Body Works in Evansville, IN., look up their website. The severe jolt even damaged my Xantrex RS2000 inverter, it will not pass-through 120VAC until I manually clear the fault that says " internal fatal error", and reset the main breaker in the inverter panel..

That was an unmanned filling station, no contact information was available. I'll let Progressive sort it out. The entire front cap below the windshield is cracked and torn in places.. I was told that since no front cap is available they might total the MH as it would be too expensive to fabricate a new one by copying the old one, we'll see. We arrived home today, along the way every RV park where we stopped gave our MH a disapproving look with the genset in full view. Oddly enough, without the center-half of the front cap I thought the MH handled better and got better mileage-seat of the pants feeling though. When the MH bottomed-out on the jacks it was a sudden solid jar. All the way home dirt was blowing out of the foam central air conditioning ceiling ducts. Tough way to clean them though.

Today was a bummer. I pulled into an unmanned truck filling station, spotted many potholes in the parking lot, all full of water. I avoided as many as possible until I came upon a wide pothole -so wide I couldn't drive around or straddle. I slowly eased my front tires into the water-filled pothole, when suddenly the front dropped like a rock. Busted the bottom half of my front cap all across, the pothole was actually a foot deep and wide enough for my 22.5 tires to go to the bottom and allow my front cap to drop onto the gravel on the other side. I've got to have it repaired, it's too old to obtain a new cap. Aah the joys of traveling_. Now I find out how good Progressive handles claims.

I hope you took a picture of the wiring before removing any of them. It sounds like incorrect wiring.

Well, we depart Ft. Myers Beach Thursday. Leaving 90F bright sun shiny weather and going home to 37F and rain. 😰 A man stopped me last weekend and asked if I'd consider selling our MH. I told him everything I had but my wife was for sale. He didn't hesitate when I told him $50k. I gave him my name and number for when we get home, he lives near Cincinnati OH, about 300 miles from me. Whether he buys it or not I'm going to recommend he join FMCA.

One post, wonder if he will ever return?

I used thumb tacks. Never thought of using hot glue.

Check the oil level, if an injector is leaking the oil will be over-full.